Trac lock frictions

[upnsmoke]

Hi all. I'm looking for individual clutch friction discs for my trac lock. I have it out right now and will be installing a carbon disc rebuild kit. I figured I would try stacking them using the alternating method, though, which requires one extra friction. Does anyone know where I can buy individual carbon friction discs, or any individual friction discs for that matter? I posted this in the axle section, but figured there may be a better chance of someone happening across it here that may be able to help me. This axle is going back in the truck this weekend, and I would love to be able to use all new frictions. I will reuse two old ones if I need to, but I'm not buying two kits right now at $100 a pop. Thanks for reading and for any help you all can give.

[--weezl--]

iirc, stock order is fccfccf

if you take your stockers and flip the c's so that the surfaces that are facing eachother are outwards, and put it back in, it brings it back almost to new trac-loc type deal... if you put new ones in and want a more firm trac loc, you install them in this order:

cfcfcfc

your kit should give you a total of 8 of one disk, and 6 of another... if it doesn't i'm fairly sure you're missing pieces...

[AllanD]

If you look at the old discs you are taking out you will see that the "outboard friction" on either side, the one that rides against the differential carrier on either side only contacts the plate on the inboard side.

It rests against a spacer shim and the differential carrier on it's outboard side and never rotates agains the shim or carrier so the outboard side is "new" flip that one disc and reinstall it with the new frictions and you are good to go.

AD

[Teddyzee]

FWIW, the alternating method kicks ass.

[upnsmoke]

=AllanD;1184259flip that one disc and reinstall it with the new frictions and you are good to go.

This is exactly what I will do. I would prefer not to mix my old frictions with the new carbons, but I will for now I guess. I'll get another set of carbons next time I do a rebuild. Thanks guys.

[AllanD]

Do remember not to shim the unit too tight.

it is a common mistake to confuse "preload" with effectiveness

The fact is that MOST of the pressure squeezing the clutches & Steels together
is a function of a camming effect caused by the rounded gear faces that aid
in creating a situation where force applied to the axle pinions by the spider pinions tends to "wedge" the axle pinions outwards against the clutch packs.

So over-shimming makes the diff less effective than having it a little loose

AD

[upnsmoke]

Interesting. I was somewhat aware that some sort of camming effect was at work, but I haven't taken the time to study one of these diffs closely. I know I put an S spring from an F-150 in a Mustang before, having heard that it was stiffer and would increase the effectiveness of the diff, but it made no difference that I could feel. I will be sure to get the preload right, and not overdo it. Thanks AllanD, I appreciate your advice on this. With any luck, I will have the truck out for a drive with this axle under it some time next week. I also got my pop to go half in on an extra carbon kit with me on the condition that I rebuild his trac lok when I get around to it, so I will be able to use all carbon clutches this time around.