Dome light switch.


SpacemanSpiff

10+ Year Member

Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
8
Points
1,501
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
Hi all.

I have the all-too-common 'dome light stays on' problem, but I'm having some difficulty troubleshooting it. [1996 Ford Ranger]

If I forced the door latch back with a screwdriver, I'd hear the relay click and the dome light would go out.

I removed the dome light switch from the door, sprayed contact cleaner/lubricant in it, worked the plunger several thousand times and reinstalled it. The dome light still wouldn't go out.

I removed the switch again and measured its continuity while depressing and releasing the plunger and it works as expected. So...I fabricated and placed a shorting plug in the switch plug to see if the light would go out and it doesn't.

There's a *second* switch in the door latch assembly that I'm unable to locate any information about. This model has no power *anything*, so I can't imagine what this other switch is for unless the door ajar and dome light are two separate switches in this model.

I haven't taken the entire latch assembly out yet, as it's kind of a pita and it's dark outside now, but I was hoping I could gain some insight here.

Thanks in advance.

-Denny
 
One switch is the handle switch and the other is the latch switch. Try sprying WD40 in the latch area and open and close the door a few times.
 
Last edited:
rtg143 said:
One switch is the handle switch and the other is thelatch switch. Try sprying WD40 in the latch area and open and close the door a few times.
Click to expand...

Handle switch as in pull it and the dome light comes on?
I *never* considered that foo-foo of an option with this vehicle.

I'll check that in the morning.

Thanks! :)
 
Ok. The driver's door has two switches, the passenger has one.
They're easy enough to get out without removing the latch, but the plastic retainer clips on the power connectors tend to break easily as they're dry and brittle.
I used electronics contact cleaner/silicone lubricant and all appears well.
We'll see if it lasts long enough to have made it worth the effort.
 
Thanks for the update, keep us posted. You can spray the WD40 through the latch area with the tube nozzle too.
 
Just wanted to add to the thread for future reference.

Dorman's Help line has a replacement door ajar switch pn 49204 for under $10
[Advance auto has it for $7.99 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...rman---Help_17191017-P_405_R|GRPSESWAMS_____]

Dome light switch.


I haven't been able to locate a third-party replacement for the dome switch in the driver's door. Remember, the driver's door dome switch is separate from the door ajar switch, unlike the passenger side which can use the Dorman part.

The original driver's side dome switch is pn F6DB-13752-CA which has been superseded by MOTORCRAFT SW-5195 pn F7DZ-13752-AA

Dome light switch.


Hope this helps others with the same issue. :)
 
Does anyone know if the "lights on" chime is related to these door switchs?
 
The chime is related to a lot of things, including those switches.

Postin' from teh Galaxy
 
I replaced the door ajar switch located in the door latch, that didn't fix my problem. Where is this second dome light switch located in the door? I've been looking for it and can't find any other evidence of a switch.

My trucks problem is the dome light comes on when opening the door but for only about 5degrees of opening, it then shuts off. Also the "headlights on" chime does not chime at all. I can also hear the relay clicking for when the dome light should be turning on and off.

Thankyou for any help.
 
Last edited:
I realize I am making this thread into a Zombie again, but I've got some recent experience in this matter that might be relevant:

The lower switch on the door mechanism is the light constant on switch.

The upper switch is a momentary that turns the lights on for about 45 seconds. I am not 100% certain, but this momentary seems to be only activated by opening and/or unlocking the door from the outside.

If your ranger is anything like my 97, the issue is some rub interference in the wiring at the door hinge grounding the circuit out. I traced the wires as best I could, but could not find the fault to ground, so I disconnected both switches. The circuit is otherwise unaffected.
 
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