Extended Radius Arm questions...

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Ok, I've been reading through all the threads I could find about extended radius arm questions and I can't believe how confused I am. I know extended them is the "easy" part...but setting the caster worries me.

I am having a problem when I try to move the radius arms closer to the frame it moves the beams downward (so the beam tilts down towards the ground) And I am wondering about the angle of the beam in the drop bracket. I'll take some pics and repost.

So, my setup is an already extended set of radius arms. They are straight like the stock piece...and no "caster?" was incorporated in them. I want my radius arm mounts to be tucked to the frame and not hung down. How do I achieve this without have an akward angle on the beams?

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

The beam at good angle...

When the radius arm is moved close to the frame...

Pointing towards the ground...

alwaysFlOoReD · Nov 13, 2011

If I understand your question, and am seeing drop brackets on your beams, you will have to have radius arm drop brackets using the arms you have now, or build new arms with caster built in. You may be able to cut and weld the part of your arm that bolts to the beam to lengthen the bottom "ear", but it will take some measuring to get it correct, and some fab skills as well.
P.S. it's been a while since I've been under my truck, so I apologize in advance for any mistakes in my advice.
Good luck,

Richard

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

I removed the old radius arm bracket mount. I have a new radius arm bracket already.

So, to fix this I need to build new arms?

Sasquatch_Ryda · Nov 13, 2011

You've got no weight on the front suspension either. As the suspension travel moves upwards the top of the axle beams will rotate backwards.

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Ok that makes sense now. I think I should re-design the radius arms. Should the radius arm mounts be pointed downward?

I saw you used square tubing, how did you know how much bend to add to your radius arms?

Sasquatch_Ryda · Nov 13, 2011

I didn't bend anything.

I just angled the new section of square tube upwards about 4-5 degrees. My mounts were tight to the bottom of the frame. I could have added more caster to them, but I was able to get it pretty decent with an alignment afterwards. Too much caster is better than not enough when running bigger tires and such, helps keep the steering stable.

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Thats what I meant by bend/angle. So basically just take the same amount of extended radius arm length (say 12") and move the radius arm mount back that same amount and don't worry too much about the caster as long as its not TOO much or negative. Some is better than none right? About 3-5 degrees?

Ok, I guess my arms would work but they look weak...what do you think?
(I didn't build these got them from a member off of here)

And the radius arm mount has been gusseted.

Should the mounts be angled down?

Sasquatch_Ryda · Nov 13, 2011

I'd redo the arms....I don't care for how those were done.

I cut right back to the main part of the arm and added in there. Plug welded/and plated/gusseted everything back in to make it all one. I guess you've looked through the pics in my thread when I built mine?

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Yes I have. Yours looks very clean and well done. And, you have excellent fabrication skills. Mine were welded at the way end. If something were to put a lot of stress on it I bet it would bend easily. It doesn't look safe to me.

I am going to pick up some materials tomorrow. 2" - .25" wall DOM tubing? Or I guess it could be square too. I don't care which one.

Another stupid question...can I use my d28 arms? That way I can start off with a clean slate.

Sasquatch_Ryda · Nov 13, 2011

Yes, D28 arms are the same, but actually use a better lower shock mount.

I found the square to be easier to work with and was able to get a lot more weld area out of it. It's also a lot more affordable.

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Square looks better to me anyway. Does it have to DOM? Or does that exist for square tubing? I'll use my d28 arms then. Is there anything you would change about your radius arms...what to improve on?

Look better? Does the radius arm mounts have to be pointing down at an angle?

Sasquatch_Ryda · Nov 13, 2011

Only thing I would have done was add a bit more caster correction to them.

If I were to have gotten really carried away I would have started from scratch and built in some more bend to them to clear the tires. My 36x12.50 TSL/SX's did rub the sidewall lugs on the arms and full steering lock. Not enough to cause any problems, just kinda annoying. Not an issue anymore tho, TTB is all gone from under that truck. Sold the arms/crossmember to buddy for a truck he is building.

As for the angle of the mounts, try to make it so they are at a neutral position to the arm at ride height, that way you will get the most up/down movement out of the stock style bushing mount. Looks like you could probably re use that crossmember anyways.

I just used standard 2x2 x .250 wall square tube.

scotts90ranger · Nov 13, 2011

91Toyota, if you head up to Salem and go to Cherry City Metals they have hitch tube (what you want) for $.50/lb, they had a 5 or 6' stick when I got the material for mine and it was super cheap, like $7 or something. I've yet to do mine yet but will need to soon as my setup is about the limit of the stock length arms with the cheezy drop brackets, the droop is about maxed on the bushings at ride height.

Hagan · Nov 13, 2011

Yeah thats what I'm looking for. They close by the time I get off of work. I will have to buy new from steelco/somewhere else...and hopefully NOT buy a 20' stick.

I know you picked up some of the 2x2. Have you started or have any ideas how your mounting your radius arm mounts?

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Extended Radius Arm questions...

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