Shot Carburetor?

So, the other day, I was told by the previous owner of my truck that the carburetor is shot. However, I do not know much about trucks. Needless to say, I have a couple of questions.
How do I remove the carburetor? (I know where it is on the engine.)
Is it cheaper to buy or rebuild it?
If I install a v8 engine with a good carb, will I have to swap transmissions?

Any information will help. Thank you.

Mine on my 84 is shot, if you wanna go cheap it would be best to rebuild you can get the kit at autozone for 22 bucks, i bought mine there the kit,but have never got around to installing it.

How hard is it to rebuild a carb?

Also, how do I know what brand of carb I have?

Ive herd its not hard but never done it myself, I dont think you need to know what kind of brand, i justd got the carb rebuild kit not thinking about the brand, any carb kit should work for the carb u rebuild, Is it a stock carb or do u know?

I am pretty sure it's a stock carb.

How do I go about removing it?

There should be a tag on the carb with a number on it. The rebuild kits come with instructions that are easy to follow.

the carb has 3 or four bolts not sure hadnt looked at mine lately but its an undo bolts an pull off.

Taking it off is easy. Look at it. Then look at it funny. Then remove everything that is attached to it. Unplug it, pull it off, unscrew it, whatever is appropriate to the particular connection.

Then there should be 4 bolts around the base, one at each corner, that need to be removed. Then hit it with a sledge hammer like you are playing croquet and put a 4.0 in it.

Or just pull and it should come off.

adsm08 said:

Taking it off is easy. Look at it. Then look at it funny. Then remove everything that is attached to it. Unplug it, pull it off, unscrew it, whatever is appropriate to the particular connection.

Then there should be 4 bolts around the base, one at each corner, that need to be removed. Then hit it with a sledge hammer like you are playing croquet and put a 4.0 in it.

Or just pull and it should come off.

Click to expand...

Haha! I wish I had a 4.0 I could put in it!

I have one that needs rebuilt. Scored it for free.

Alaska is kinda far to send it.

Stock carb is going to be rubbish on that thing. I can't count the ways. It will probably never run right again no matter what. You've got the worst fuel delivery system possible in that engine.

If it were me, I would shitcan the carb and put a Weber on it. Then you can ignore the computer. Then find the parts to install an electronic ignition. You don't need the whole Duraspark get-up. You can probably run the ignition with a $25 Mopar ignition module if you can find two wires coming out of the pickup inside of the dizzy. You can then ignore the ignition module.

More than likely, there is an adapter out there for something else that would let you run a cheap Weber ICH on that truck. It will seem tiny, but it will do the job. I just did all of the things described above on my sister's '65 Mustang this summer. It had horrible, unfixable problems like your truck. Instead of an abortion of a computer controlled carb, it had the old vacuum-only distributor advance which relies on an advnce control valve in the carb. Might have worked 50 years ago when it was new, but getting a piece of crap carb rebuilt from Autozone that has been through the caustic tank in Mexico 500 times isn't good for internal tolerances in casting passageways. It's more practical to put something reliable on, if you can.

Well, I definitely do not have the money to put any great parts on my truck. All I want to be able to do is haul firewood and lumber.

I looked up new carbs the other day, and there is no way I can spare $300, or even $200. All I want to do is fix 'er up cheap, then, when the time is right and I have the money(Probably next year), fix her up permanently.

You sound like a rookie in as much that stock carb and emission setup will drive the experienced mechanic crazy trying to get everything to work. It has a 2150A feedback carb with the TFI ignition and the EEC-IV emissions. All three have to be working good for it to run good. Rebuilding that carb would be the cheapest as long as the other stuff is working. Wiggle the throttle lever up and down and side to side if it is flopping around it is shot if not it is probably ok. Four nuts hold it down some vacuum lines the throttle cable and kickdown lever and the fuel line. four electrical connectors the choke the idle motor the throttle position sensor and the feedback solenoid. Just remember how it comes apart. The best way to tear it down is on a bench with enough room and lay everything you take off it in order you take it apart and remove everything but the butterflys. there should be an aluminum tag with the part number of the carb or on the flat metal plate by the choke. It is an autolite 2150a feedback carb. once again pay attention how it pulls apart and save all the gaskets and rubber parts so you know what parts to use out of the kit. The jets in the bottom of the float bowl can be a bitch so make sure you use a big enough screwdriver to pop them loose then soak everything aluminum overnite in carb cleaner or acetone when you take them out of the cleaner immediately spray everything good with high pressure water good especially all the ports then blow everything out good with air pressure until dry. the easyest thing to lose is the bearing that is used for the check valve for the accelerator pump. The hollow bolt for the venturi cluster is where the bering and weight are so be careful when taking it apart pull the cluster strait out then turn it upside down and catch the bering and weight. when your ready to put it back together match the parts in the kit to the parts on the table you always get more than you need. just follow the instructions on presetting the float level (dry float). If you can get a new spacer that would help and I forgot before you put it in the carb cleaner surface the base of the carb. I glue a piece of 180 grit to a flat plywood and slowly work it all around nice and flat until it scratches the whole bottom surface but dont gouge it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf
close to the same carb good reads

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BWD-...84|Make:Ford|Model:Ranger&hash=item588db75bcd
It is the only one with pics that looks right