ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT Filter (made at home)

[Wolfuss]

Difficulty: 4 out of 10 (You must know how to solder)

Time to install: After completed - maybe ten minutes


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation:Every cooling system seems to have residual crud in it even after flushing. It gets trapped in pockets and may flush out whenever. This is an old trick I learned from a retired USAF man who restored all sorts of antique automobiles.



Tools Needed:
Plumbers torch
Sheet metal shears
Pliers
Etc...


Parts Needed:
Wire window screen material
Solder
Flux (plumbers flux is perfect)




Steps 1 - ?:
Now here is an "OLD TIMER" stunt that just might be helpful (I learned this trick from a retired Air Force Sgt who restored old Nash, Rambler, and Essex cars)

Take a deepwell socket or two and find one that leaves about an eighth to 3/16's of room around it when you insert it in the top radiator connection for the engine return hose (Upper Radiator Tank Conn.).

Use the socket as a form to solder together some steel window screen into a tube about 6 inches long.
Make a cap piece for one end out of a circle of screen and solder it to one end.

What you have now is a perfectly fitted basket that you can insert in the inflow connector. It should slide in plenty easily, and the flow holds it in place.

You clamp the hose back on and go...

If any overheating happens, let out enough coolant to undo that hose and dump the trapped crap inside the basket you made

YES!!!
It's a freakin' home made anti-freeze filter.................................

~Wolfie Sendezzz

PS: And there's always a little more JUNK left in any system you flush. THIS GETS IT!

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I like this.

Richard

[Wolfuss]

First time I used that info - I was flogging a seriously endangered Datsun from Maryland to Southern California way back in 1976 - it really does work!

I think I dumped it out twice on that ride - but it was a butt saver!

Nowadays I like to build from a "TANKED" clean block - and I never skimp on A-Freeze. 50/50% or better
(The Glycol in it prevents further rusting out)

[shane96ranger]

Forgive me if I'm not understanding. I understand that getting rust and debris in your system is bad. But, it seems to me that trapping it all in one spot would actually restrict flow and cause more damage than just letting it flow on by.

Am I not fully understanding your modification? Not trying to be devils advocate, I would just like to fully comprehend what this achieves.

[Wolfuss]

The purpose IS to trap that junk -
In a small tubular basket that can be emptied out as needed.

This is one of the few ways I know of to protect the small pipettes in the radiator core from getting jammed with rust flakes especially if the engine and truck were used (not clean when you got it). The radiator core has the smallest passages in the entire cooling system.

There is always a certain amount of junk in any engine, This rounds it all up once and for all

(assuming you bring the A/F strength up to a rust preventive mixture so that no more can form)

** It is also a good thing to know about if you plan to use any kind of "Block Flush" because you are sure to have a landslide of rust and gunk head directly INTO the radiator core if there is nothing to stop it...