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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Blaine, Washington
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Posts: 135
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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As the title asks, I am wondering if I should go ahead and pay the extra bit to have the polyurethane radius arm bushings instead of the standard replacements? And what about other replacements in polyurethane?
Ideas, comments...?
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Cheers and Blessings, Rhainy Proud owner of Shady Lady '91 Ranger XLT Standard Cab,4.0L, 4WD, 5Spd and a sunburn http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9...struck1ai8.jpg http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4...struck2hd0.jpg http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5...kbooboosk9.jpg |
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#2 |
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Coast Mountain Crawlers
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Terrace, BC, Canada
Year: 1991/1997/2008
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty
Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter
Posts: 7,470
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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If its a street driven truck the polys will be a better choice, and won't wear out as fast. I run the rubber bushings in mine simply because you get more flex out the rubber ones even tho they wear faster, its a trade off i'm willing to put up with.
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http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock |
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#3 |
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Odd One
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Posts: 3,466
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (17)
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for a daily driver i would go with the poly for sure. i have them in my truck (everywhere possible other than body mounts and only because i havent replaced them yet) and im happy. they claim you will notice more road vibrations because they are stiffer but they also say it will handle better. i dont know if i noticed any difference either way.
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1987 Ranger Supercab STX, 4.0/M5OD/BW1350 4.10LS, 2" Lift, Cut Fenders, 33's 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (Mostly stock, for now...) 1991 Escort GT (Daily Driver) Past: 87 Supercab, 87 Longbed, 89 Shortbed, 96 Explorer Sport |
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#4 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: California central coast
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine: 4.0L
Class: 4x4
Posts: 4,643
Rep Power: 21 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Extra price? What extra price? Poly radius arm bushings are cheap. Duff used to sell them for $17/set. Shop around. Sometimes people try to sell you all the steel hardware as well. You don't need this unless yours are gone. Which is fairly unlikely.
Poly bushings may be a bit rougher, and perhaps noisier. But not all that significantly. They do last longer, but rubber bushings will last quite some time as well. Your originals lasted 17 years, after all!
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2. |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Blaine, Washington
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Posts: 135
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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MAKG et al,
Thanks for the input, I mentioned extra cost due to shopping around online only...I can probably get a decent deal locally, though I honestly haven't checked yet. I plan on getting the linkage first, then the bushings the following payday...can you tell money is a wee bit tight? So with all the folks I have spoken with saying I should do the poly, that is definitely the way I will go. Someone mentionted them needing lubricant, whereas rubber ones didn't...I don't know much about this aspect, but I will do my research and make sure I take care of them, once they are installed. This truck will probably be my last vehicle unless I win the lotto or something, so I am taking the best possible care of her that I can... Thanks folks!
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Cheers and Blessings, Rhainy Proud owner of Shady Lady '91 Ranger XLT Standard Cab,4.0L, 4WD, 5Spd and a sunburn http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9...struck1ai8.jpg http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4...struck2hd0.jpg http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5...kbooboosk9.jpg |
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#6 |
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Coast Mountain Crawlers
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Terrace, BC, Canada
Year: 1991/1997/2008
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty
Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter
Posts: 7,470
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Some guys like to install then with some white lithium grease to help stop any squeaking that might happen, I would think that this would just attract more dirt and wear them out faster tho....
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http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock |
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#7 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: California central coast
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine: 4.0L
Class: 4x4
Posts: 4,643
Rep Power: 21 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I like to lubricate them with Nev-R-Seez. It tolerates getting wet quite a lot better than lithium grease.
__________________
1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2. |
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#8 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Year: 2000
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.5l
Class: 2WD
Used For: Summer Daily Driver
Posts: 7
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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this is an old thread I realize, but I was installing the DJM 2/3 drop and I figured while I was under there I'd throw in some poly bushings as well, so like any good consumer, I decided to do some research first. Found on engergy suspensions website (see the link) that there is a difference between the red and black bushings they sell. http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=11161
The black bushing are impregnated with graphite to self lubricate, reducing the need to use additional lube. Last edited by Rybester; 03-25-2013 at 07:30 PM. Reason: typo |
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