gears?

zonki00 · 05-09-2011, 12:06 AM

I have 3:73s in my truck now and I'm running 33s. This isn't the best combo. I know I should have 4:10s I think. I don't really want to break the bank on new gears but I need them. So what would be the best direction to go for me? I have a 7.5 rearend. Would it just be best to get an 8.8 with 4:10s and then just get new gears for the front?

skiboarder · 05-09-2011, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zonki00

I have 3:73s in my truck now and I'm running 33s. This isn't the best combo. I know I should have 4:10s I think. I don't really want to break the bank on new gears but I need them. So what would be the best direction to go for me? I have a 7.5 rearend. Would it just be best to get an 8.8 with 4:10s and then just get new gears for the front?

If you are lucky enough you can find a dana 35 with 4.10s from the factory. The 8.8 with 4.10s are not as hard to find, but not easy also. I think you are on the right track money savings. I also run 33s with 3.73. I am going 4.56s. you might ask yourself what type of driving you will be doing most. This will give you an idea if 4.10s will be low enough, or if you need to go lower. That is why I chose 4.56s. 4.56s cover the broadest area of usage that my bronco will see.
Hope this helps.

**Sasquatch_Ryda** · 05-09-2011, 01:51 AM

I also would suggest you go with 4.56's if you are going to do a re-gear. especially with the 3.0L

3.73 to 4.10 isn't much of a jump at all.

177CIOfPureLove · 05-09-2011, 09:28 AM

I have a lot of research into this subject myself, and I am only dealing with 31" tires.... my 3.73 ratios performed poorly with 235's..... much less my 31's. After a lot of thought, and research, I used this tool in our tech library-

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...tioChange.html

Just input the factory tire size in inches, your new tire diameter, and your current ratio. It calculates your realistic ratio, and on the right it gives you ideal ratios to restore it to OE performance. I was on the fence about getting 4.10's or 4.56's and this made it clear for me that 4.56's ought to be in my future for this truck to make it driveable again...lol. Go find a 8.8 and a D35, and stuff 4.56's (maybe even 4.88 for your 33"s) in them.

strvger · 05-09-2011, 10:57 AM

i like my 4.56's. incredible difference over the original 3.45's that were in it. if you shop carefully and find some extra dollars, you might get lucky like i did and also find a nice detroit locker for the rear. mine was used, but in excellent condition and only $250, iirc.
good luck with your build!!

lone-wolf · 05-09-2011, 11:32 AM

I'm in the same situation, 373s and 32" tires with a slack 3.0l
I was thinking 410 but definitely feel 456 or maybe even lower is the way to go. As 33" tires is the next step.

zonki00 · 05-09-2011, 12:07 PM

so 4:56s look like thell be the best. where can i get the best deal on them? i need it for the dana 35 up front and the 7.5 in the rear, and when i change them can i keep my stock posi?

jamie4ltr · 05-09-2011, 12:22 PM

Don't waste your $ on the 7.5"! Find an Exploder 8.8" to build! I've been running 33x11.5R16 AT's and 4.56 gears in my 4.0ltr Super cab Ranger for the last couple of months going to work on the highway. I don't do more then 115km/hr (roughly 2800rpm) for any extended periods of time, but it's no struggle to get up to that speed and I NEVER have to downshift for a hill! I seem to be getting the same fuel economy as when I had the 4.56 gears in my regular cab Ranger with 35x12.5R15 MT's! I think 4.56 gears and 33's with a 3.0ltr would work excellent together!

jamie4ltr · 05-09-2011, 12:24 PM

I'm sure Saquatch_Ryder would agree with me that "JUSTDIFFERENTIALS.COM" are excellent people to deal with and have pretty decent prices!

strvger · 05-09-2011, 02:00 PM

my 4.56's are in my '83 with the d28/7.5 axles. no problems at all. BUT, i don't abuse my truck. you can break anything on your truck if you try hard enough no matter how it's built. for most folks, it's not so much WHAT you drive as HOW you drive that determines how well the vehicle performs.
just a thought.

**4x4junkie** · 05-09-2011, 06:21 PM

33s with a 3.0L needs 4.88s, no question.
4.56 would be great with a 4.0L... but a 3.0L need more RPM to be happy.

**Sasquatch_Ryda** · 05-09-2011, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamie4ltr

I'm sure Saquatch_Ryder would agree with me that "JUSTDIFFERENTIALS.COM" are excellent people to deal with and have pretty decent prices!

Do I know you?

05-09-2011, 12:06 AM	#1
zonki00 Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ca Year: 1999 Make: ford Model: ranger Engine: 3.0 v6 Class: 4x4 Used For: wheelin and driving to school Posts: 64 Rep Power: 11 iTrader: (0)	gears? I have 3:73s in my truck now and I'm running 33s. This isn't the best combo. I know I should have 4:10s I think. I don't really want to break the bank on new gears but I need them. So what would be the best direction to go for me? I have a 7.5 rearend. Would it just be best to get an 8.8 with 4:10s and then just get new gears for the front? __________________ if you want peace prepare for war
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05-09-2011, 01:51 AM	#3
Sasquatch_Ryda Coast Mountain Crawlers Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Terrace, BC, Canada Year: 1991/1997/2008 Make: Ford Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L Class: 4x4 Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter Posts: 7,470 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (0)	I also would suggest you go with 4.56's if you are going to do a re-gear. especially with the 3.0L 3.73 to 4.10 isn't much of a jump at all. __________________ http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock
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05-09-2011, 09:28 AM	#4
177CIOfPureLove Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bayville, NJ Year: 1989 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Engine: 2.9L Class: 2wd Used For: DD Posts: 366 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (1)	I have a lot of research into this subject myself, and I am only dealing with 31" tires.... my 3.73 ratios performed poorly with 235's..... much less my 31's. After a lot of thought, and research, I used this tool in our tech library- http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...tioChange.html Just input the factory tire size in inches, your new tire diameter, and your current ratio. It calculates your realistic ratio, and on the right it gives you ideal ratios to restore it to OE performance. I was on the fence about getting 4.10's or 4.56's and this made it clear for me that 4.56's ought to be in my future for this truck to make it driveable again...lol. Go find a 8.8 and a D35, and stuff 4.56's (maybe even 4.88 for your 33"s) in them. __________________ 1989 Ranger XLT Long bed- (DD) 2.9L / M5OD R1 4x2. 172,000 miles. 1999 Mustang GT 35th Anniversary (#129 of 4,628) Performance Red, 61,000 miles 1981 Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup, 1.6 L Diesel 62,000 miles.... 50mpg... (Sold)1988 Ranger STX Ext. Cab 2.9L manual 4x4 FM146 31" tires, 2" lift, 1 piece d/s, 3:73 op/ls
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05-09-2011, 10:57 AM	#5
strvger Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: the land of 2 seasons-Winter and getting ready for Winter! Year: 1983 Make: Ford Model: Ranger reg cab, short bed Engine: 2.8 Class: 4x4 Used For: getting the job done, no matter what that job is. Posts: 3,012 Rep Power: 16 iTrader: (4)	i like my 4.56's. incredible difference over the original 3.45's that were in it. if you shop carefully and find some extra dollars, you might get lucky like i did and also find a nice detroit locker for the rear. mine was used, but in excellent condition and only $250, iirc. good luck with your build!! __________________ 1983 Ranger, ds'd 2.8 V6, 5 spd, 4x4, 2in bl, 31" TreadWright's, 4.56 gears, rear Detroit, aux gas tank "Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid"... the Duke
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05-09-2011, 11:32 AM	#6
lone-wolf Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlantic Canada Year: 1997 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Hunting & Playing Posts: 325 Rep Power: 9 iTrader: (0)	I'm in the same situation, 373s and 32" tires with a slack 3.0l I was thinking 410 but definitely feel 456 or maybe even lower is the way to go. As 33" tires is the next step. __________________
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05-09-2011, 12:07 PM	#7
zonki00 Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ca Year: 1999 Make: ford Model: ranger Engine: 3.0 v6 Class: 4x4 Used For: wheelin and driving to school Posts: 64 Rep Power: 11 iTrader: (0)	so 4:56s look like thell be the best. where can i get the best deal on them? i need it for the dana 35 up front and the 7.5 in the rear, and when i change them can i keep my stock posi? __________________ if you want peace prepare for war
	Tweet

05-09-2011, 12:22 PM	#8
jamie4ltr Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Alberta Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Engine: 4.0 ltr Class: 4x4 Used For: Everything Posts: 85 Rep Power: 11 iTrader: (0)	4.56! Don't waste your $ on the 7.5"! Find an Exploder 8.8" to build! I've been running 33x11.5R16 AT's and 4.56 gears in my 4.0ltr Super cab Ranger for the last couple of months going to work on the highway. I don't do more then 115km/hr (roughly 2800rpm) for any extended periods of time, but it's no struggle to get up to that speed and I NEVER have to downshift for a hill! I seem to be getting the same fuel economy as when I had the 4.56 gears in my regular cab Ranger with 35x12.5R15 MT's! I think 4.56 gears and 33's with a 3.0ltr would work excellent together! __________________ 1994RangerSupercab 4ltr M5OD-R1 BW1354M 4.56gears 31spline8.8 Skyjacker6''lift/ExtendedRadius-arms Belltech's Hurstshifter Autometer5"Tach/Shiftlight 12000LbsWinch 35x12.5 Mud Country's.
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05-09-2011, 12:24 PM	#9
jamie4ltr Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Alberta Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Engine: 4.0 ltr Class: 4x4 Used For: Everything Posts: 85 Rep Power: 11 iTrader: (0)	JT's I'm sure Saquatch_Ryder would agree with me that "JUSTDIFFERENTIALS.COM" are excellent people to deal with and have pretty decent prices! __________________ 1994RangerSupercab 4ltr M5OD-R1 BW1354M 4.56gears 31spline8.8 Skyjacker6''lift/ExtendedRadius-arms Belltech's Hurstshifter Autometer5"Tach/Shiftlight 12000LbsWinch 35x12.5 Mud Country's.
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05-09-2011, 02:00 PM	#10
strvger Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: the land of 2 seasons-Winter and getting ready for Winter! Year: 1983 Make: Ford Model: Ranger reg cab, short bed Engine: 2.8 Class: 4x4 Used For: getting the job done, no matter what that job is. Posts: 3,012 Rep Power: 16 iTrader: (4)	my 4.56's are in my '83 with the d28/7.5 axles. no problems at all. BUT, i don't abuse my truck. you can break anything on your truck if you try hard enough no matter how it's built. for most folks, it's not so much WHAT you drive as HOW you drive that determines how well the vehicle performs. just a thought. __________________ 1983 Ranger, ds'd 2.8 V6, 5 spd, 4x4, 2in bl, 31" TreadWright's, 4.56 gears, rear Detroit, aux gas tank "Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid"... the Duke
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05-09-2011, 06:21 PM	#11
4x4junkie Mall-Rated Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: So. Calif (SFV) Year: 1990,1994 Make: Ford Model: Bronco II, Ranger Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L Used For: Crawling over things Posts: 8,011 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (0)	33s with a 3.0L needs 4.88s, no question. 4.56 would be great with a 4.0L... but a 3.0L need more RPM to be happy. __________________ '90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker Jeep coils), D35 & 8.8" w/5.13s (locked), 1354 dual T-case, 35x12.50s '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s
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