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Old 01-31-2008, 08:19 AM   #1
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Default 5R55E Automatic Transmission to M50D-R1 Transmission Swap

This How-To is by far incomplete. I am going to put this together as I go so it isn't so time consuming at the end to write it up.


Mod:5R55E Automatic Transmission to M50D-R1 Transmission Swap
Difficulty: 8/10 (mechanical & electrical knowledge required)
Time: Depends on person(s) mechanical ability

Author: Maurice Jones Jr. (lifted97ranger)
Please direct all questions and comments to the author.


DISCLAIMER: Ranger-Forums.com, this site, it's administration, and the original author are not liable for anything that may occur as a result of someone who reads or follows any steps in this How-To. Proceed at your own peril. The reader assumes all responsibility for consequences that may occur by performing this modification.




__________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
Gathering the parts for this swap will come from a wide array of places. I got all my parts from members here and on other forums, auto parts store, Ford dealership, junk yards, and eBay. There isn't a lot of parts really to have, it is just kinda tough finding the right ones and getting them used in good shape.


Acronyms Used in This How-To
- PCM = The trucks computer
- CPP = Clutch Pedal Position switch




Parts List:
• M50D-R1 or M50D-R1HD transmission ($400)
Member on www.Ranger-Forums.com
• Luk Clutch kit and slave cylinder ($200.00)
eBay Motors (Clutchcityonline store)
• New flywheel ($79.99)
O’Reilly Auto Parts
• 2004 Ranger clutch pedal assembly ($40.00)
Junk yard
• New clutch master cylinder, reservoir, & hydraulic line ($115.00)
eBay Motors (Clutchcityonline store)
• New transmission starter ($109.99)
O’Reilly Auto Parts
• New Ford Clutch Pedal Position Switch ($30.00)
eBay Motors
• ’96 Ford Ranger 4.0 4wd manual PCM ($50.00)
eBay Motors
• Misc. Bolts (pressure plate bolts, flywheel bolts) ($22.18)
Ford dealership
• New Dust Plate ($27.06)
Ford dealership



General Notes:
- If you have a XCalibrator, XCalibrator 2, or any other tuner device and you want to use it with the new PCM or you want to sell it, then you MUST set the tune in the PCM you are taking out of the truck back to the stock tune.
- Make sure you have atleast one person to help you with the swap. It wont be impossible to do by yourself (since the transmissions doesn't weigh that much), but the swap will go faster and it will be a lot easier to accomplish.
- Make sure you have ALL the parts before you attempt to do this swap.
- Each step in the swap has its own notes. Please read them BEFORE doing the swap.
- Please get new flywheel bolts. These bolts shouldn't be reused.
- The only special tools you will need for this swap is a Torx Socket set. These sockets are the female Torx bits (not the usual male Torx sockets). You will use 1 of these sockets for the flywheel bolts.

- These steps are in NO particular order, but they are in the order that I believe to be the easiest and fastest way of getting it done.





Getting into the swap process


Step 1: Swapping the Pedal Assembly (Make sure that the automatic shifter cable is out of the truck BEFORE swapping pedal assemblies)

Tools Needed for Step 1:
• 3/8” socket set
• 4” 3/8” extension
• 2” 3/8” extension
• 3/8” swivel
• 13mm socket
• 13mm deep well socket
• 13mm wrench (ratcheting wrench makes a WORLDS difference to have)

Steps:
1. Remove the hood latch assembly from the dash (open the hood before removing)
2. Remove the small kotter pin off the brake pedal; slip everything that is on the pedal off
3. Remove the 4 13mm nuts that are around the brake plunger
4. Remove the 2 13mm bolts at the top of the pedal assembly (these are a pain, especially the one on the driver side)
5. Have someone pull the brake master cylinder out as much as possible
6. Wiggle the brake pedal assembly out
7. Wiggle the brake/clutch pedal assembly in
8. Re-install the nuts and bolts (I left the driver side 13mm bolt out because it was a pain)
9. Re-attach the brake master cylinder plunger to the brake pedal
10. Re-attach hood latch assembly to the dash

Step 1 Notes:
- The top 2 bolts are a PITA to get out. Be prepared to spend a while on them. These bolts is where the wrenches come in handy.
- After removing all 4 bolts from around the brake master cylinder plunger, pull the master cylinder out away from the firewall as far as you can without damaging the brake lines.
- Make sure you have the automatic transmission shifter cable out of the way BEFORE you do the swap. It is a real PITA to get out after you swap the pedal assemblies.
- You can not install the clutch/brake pedal assembly in advance of the rest of the swap. The automatic transmission shifter cable must be removed from its bracket to get the clutch in; with the cable out of its bracket, the transmission will not shift.


Step 1 Pictures:
- This picture shows the parts that you will install here and the tools used to do this steps swap.


- This picture shows a side by side of the two pedal assemblies. You must get the bracket also with the clutch/brake pedal because of the spot on the manual transmission bracket for the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) switch to sit. The new pedal assembly is out of a '04 Ranger. You can also see the difference in the strength of the mounting brackets from '97 to '04. The '04 bracket will bolt up without problems. Also notice the difference in the brake pedal size from an automatic to a manual.


- Thes pictures show the stock automatic transmission pedal assembly removed. You can also see the plunger for the brake master cylinder.





Step 2: Swapping the Floor Hole Cover

Tools Needed for Step 1:
• 3/8” ratchet
• 2” 3/8” extension
• 1/4” ratchet
• 10mm 3/8" socket
• 8mm 1/4" socket
• 3/8” drive Torx bit set
• #2 Phillips Screw Driver
• Long Flat Head Screw Driver

Steps:
1. Remove the 4 - 10mm bolts and the 1 Torx bit bolt holding in the passanger seat. (Passanger seat is easier because you wont have to mess with the steering wheel or pedals in the way of pulling and replacing the carpet)
2. Remove the passanger seat from the truck.
3. Remove the 4 phillips screws from the black seal plate
4. Remove the driverside kick panel
5. Remove the stock cup holders (if you still have them or the Explorer center console if that is what you have installed; you will have one or the other)
6. Pull back the carpet a little that will allow you to get your hand up the the floor hole cover.
7. Remove the 4 - 8mm bolts that hold the floor hole cover on.
8. Use the long flat head screw driver to pry up the floor pan cover and slide it out from under the carpet.
9. Slip in the manual transmission floor hole cover and re-install the 4 - 8mm bolts. (It is much easier to have the shift boot console mount off the hole cover to re-install it; it is only held on with 4 phillips screws)
10. Replace the carpet in the truck.
11. Re-install the passanger side kick plate.
12. Re-install the passanger side seal plate.
13. Install the shifter boot console holder ring (see 2nd picture for description of part).
14. You can install the shifter boot console now if you wish, but you will have to remove it to put in the shifter.
15. Re-install the passanger seat.

Step 2 Notes:
- This is probably the easiest part of the whole swap. Take you time though, no need to be in a hurry.
- If you want to install Dynamat or a simular product, now would be a good time to do it. It wouldn't be all that hard to remove the driver seat and depending on the year/body style the rear jump seats and then slip the carpet out to lay the Dynamat or simular product.
- If you are doing the whole swap now from start to finish, before re-installing the new floor plate, unplug all the automatic transmission plugs. They are mostly right there within easy reach with the floor hole plate out.
- If you are doing the whole swap now, do NOT install the shifter console. It will only be in your way when you need to install the shifter.


Step 2 Pictures:
- These 2 pictures show the parts that you will install here and the tools used to do this steps swap.



- This picture shows a side by side of the two floor hole covers.[/I]


- This picture shows the seal plate and kick panel removed. This also shows how much you have to pull the carpet back to reach the back 2 bolts on the floor hole cover.


- This picture shows the automatic transmission floor hole cover removed.


- This picture shows the manual transmission floor hole cover installed.


- This picture shows the shifter console attachment ring installed.


- Thess pictures show the shifter console installed.






Step 3: Swapping/Installing the Slave Cylinder

Tools Needed for Step 1:
• 3/8” ratchet
• 4” 3/8” extension
• 2” 3/8” extension
• 10mm 3/8" socket


Steps:
1. Remove the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the old slave cylinder in the transmission.
2. Remove the old slave cylinder off the transmission input shaft.
3. Slide the new slave cylinder onto the transmission input shaft in the same orientation that the old slave cylinder came off.
4. Install the 2 - 10mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place. Torque the bolts to 15-20 ft./# torque.


Step 3 Notes:
- Make sure the dust boot for the hydraulic line that is on the slave clinder stays on until you are ready to plug in the hydraulic line. This will keep debris out of the connector.
- Make sure not to over tighten the bolts. Over tightening these bolts can crack the plastic base of the slave cylinder.



Step 3 Pictures:
- This picture shows a side by side of the slave cylinders. The one on the right is the old slave cylinder and the one on the left is the new slave cylinder. Also is a picture of the tools needed to remove and install the slave cylinder.



- This picture shows the old slave cylinder installed in the transmission.


- These pictures show the new slave cylinder installed in the transmission.

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Old 01-31-2008, 08:23 AM   #2
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like I said guys, this isn't complete yet because I haven't had time to sit down and do it. Hopefully it will be 100% by the end of the weekend.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:09 PM   #3
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good work so far, this will be something i'll do someday when my 5r55e dies.. i can start collecting parts now though..

thanks for the time+effort!
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:30 PM   #4
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thank ya.......parts aren't that bad to come buy. I had a total of $900 in the whole swap not counting the $600 i made off the Pioneer center console that I sold since it wouldn't work with a manual transmission; so I had $300 out of pocket in the whole thing...
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Old 02-02-2008, 01:41 AM   #5
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$900? That aint to bad considering most of the local trans shop in my area charge $1200 for one of there crappy auto rebuilds that dont last.
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern3.0 View Post
$900? That aint to bad considering most of the local trans shop in my area charge $1200 for one of there crappy auto rebuilds that dont last.
that is cheap.....all the transmission shops around me wants between $1600 and $2000 for a rebuild back to stock of my automatic.....a buddy of mine got his done not that long before i did the swap for $1650....that was the cheapest he found...
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:24 AM   #7
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Is this done yet?
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Oaks View Post
Is this done yet?
i should have the write up done this week......sorry been super busy...
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:32 PM   #9
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No problem. I was grabbing info from this section to put in pages and didn't know if this was done yet. Haven't read it since its still under construction.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:49 PM   #10
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i will let you know when it is done!
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