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Old 12-12-2010, 09:00 PM   #1
idriveafordranger94
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Default 4.0L OHV Torque to Yield Bolts

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of tearing down my Ranger's 4.0L and have a few questions. I know the cylinder head bolts are torque to yield, so those will need replaced, but what about the 3 big 15mm (I think) bolts that hold the rocker rail down on each head? They were really tight when taking them off and I am in question whether or not those are torque to yield and need replaced. Are there any other bolts that need replaced along with the head bolts? Thanks I appreciate it.

Oh, and I have another question. Where would I find a replacement upper intake manifold stud? I snapped the "torx" part of the stud off while removing it. I got it out with some vice grips, but am not sure where I could find a replacement. Dealership maybe? Thanks again

Andy
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:28 PM   #2
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Torque Specifications, 4.0L

Description Lb-Ft

Oil Filter Adapter Through Bolt 26-30
Water Pump to Front Cover Bolts 6-9
Cylinder Front Cover Bolts 13-15
Timing Chain Guide Bolts 7-9
Timing Chain Tensioner Bolts 7-8
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 44-50
Rocker Arm Stand Bolts 24-90
Rocker Arm Cover Bolts 4.5-5.9
EI Coil Bracket to Engine Bolts 19-24
Upper Intake Manifold Nuts 15-18
Camshaft Thrust Plate Screws 7-10
Oil Pump Drive Assembly
Hold-Down Bolt 13-15
Thermostat Housing Bolts 7-10
Oil Pressure Switch 13-16
Coolant Temperature Sensor 9-13
Coolant Temperature Sender 3-5
Oil Pan Bolts and Nuts 5-7
Oil Pump Pick-Up to Pump Screws 7-10
Oil Pump to Engine Block Screws 13-15
Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Nuts 18-24
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolts 66-77
Crankshaft Oil Baffle Nuts 13-15
Cylinder Head Bolts A
Lower Intake Manifold Nuts
and Bolts A
Flywheel Bolts A
Crankshaft Pulley/
Vibration Damper Bolt 2
Crankshaft Position
Sensor 80-106 (In-Lbs)

(A) = Tightened in stages and in sequence. Refer to text for procedure.

NOTE: The 4.0L engine should always be assembled using new cylinder head bolts.

(1)

Position cylinder head gaskets on cylinder block (6010) . Install cylinder head locating dowels. Position the cylinder heads onto the head gaskets and locating dowels.
NOTE: The cylinder head(s) and intake manifold are torqued alternately and in sequence to make sure of correct fit and gasket crush.

(2)

Install and tighten cylinder head bolts, in the sequence shown, to 30 Nm (22 ft-lb).

(3)

Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent to the block and cylinder head mating surfaces at the four corners shown. Install the head gasket and again apply sealer to the four corner locations.

(4)

Position the intake manifold on the two guide studs and install the nuts and bolts hand-tight. Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 4-8 Nm (3-6 ft-lb).

(5)

Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 70 Nm (52 ft-lb).

(6)

Tighten the intake manifold to 8-15 Nm (6-11 ft-lb).

(7)

Rotate the cylinder head bolts 80 to 85 degrees tighter in sequence for the final cylinder head torque step.

(8)

Finish tightening the intake manifold in sequence to 15-21 Nm (11-15 ft-lb) and then to 21-25 Nm (15-18 ft-lb).


Didn't know if you needed all that info, but there are all the torque specs from the factory shop manual for you. Just the head bolts need to be replaced, the rest can be reused. You can get the stud you need from your local dealership.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:39 PM   #3
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Wow thanks a lot for all of the info. I had most of the torque specs but didn't know that you alternate between the cyl head and lower intake through the sequences. Correct?
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:51 PM   #4
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Correct, just follow that step by step.
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2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake
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