| Home | Forums | Info - Technical | Info - Other | TRS News | Photo Galleries | Shirts & Decals | Parts Store | Classifieds |
|
|
|
|||||||
| Exterior Paint, graphics, fiberglass panels, fender flares, bed covers and other body bolt on's Forum sponsored by Aqua Graphix |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1983
Make: ford
Model: ranger 4x4
Engine: 2.8
Class: 4x4
Used For: daily driver
Posts: 1,936
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (1)
|
I've got and 83 that had a broke tailgate cable when I bought it. I got one from a junkyard like new for it. but when I went to put it on, where the bolt goes into the tailgate, there is nothing there for it to screw into. Does anyone have a diagram of the tailgate latch assembly(on the sides), or know what that bolt screws into? And if something has dropped down in the tailgate, how in the world to get it out.
__________________
R1hatman |
|
|
Tweet
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgia
Year: 1984,1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Bronco II
Class: 2WD
Posts: 1,348
Rep Power: 14 ![]() iTrader: (0)
|
The original nuts for the latch are crimped on the corners to grip the tailgate sheetmetal. But over time they come loose and fall out, usually down into the inside of the gate. Here's the original setup:
![]() On first generation trucks, you can only work through the hole created by removing the center unlatching handle; and you can't really get nuts over to the latch bolts. The best fix I've found is to remove the original square nut-serts, and then alter the square holes, by adding a slot, like this: ![]() And then recontouring the metal a little bit so that you can now use clip-in nuts, like this: ![]() It's not that hard to make this modification, and now you can replace the nut clips easily if it's ever needed. Otherwise, once the factory nuts break loose, you're screwed. If the original broken nuts are still in the gate, you'll have to dump them out through the removed handle hole, or fish them out with a magnet pickup tool. Hope this helps, and good luck.
__________________
Current: 1994 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4x2, 2.3L / M5OD. Stock, 365,000 miles. 1990 Bronco II XLT 4x2, 2.9L / A4LD. Stock, 129,00 miles. 1984 Ranger 4x2 lwb, 2.8L / C3. Stock, 148,000 miles. Past: 1985, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1992 (all bought new). Ranger-only driver for 22 years. TRS member since 3/18/2005. |
|
|
Tweet
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgia
Year: 1984,1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Bronco II
Class: 2WD
Posts: 1,348
Rep Power: 14 ![]() iTrader: (0)
|
Glad it helps; good luck with it.
__________________
Current: 1994 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4x2, 2.3L / M5OD. Stock, 365,000 miles. 1990 Bronco II XLT 4x2, 2.9L / A4LD. Stock, 129,00 miles. 1984 Ranger 4x2 lwb, 2.8L / C3. Stock, 148,000 miles. Past: 1985, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1992 (all bought new). Ranger-only driver for 22 years. TRS member since 3/18/2005. |
|
|
Tweet
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Newfoundland Canada
Year: 1994
Make: Mazada
Model: B4000 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4 2" Suspension lift coli spring spacers
Used For: Work and Play
Posts: 81
Rep Power: 7 ![]() iTrader: (0)
|
Cool tip I did this a few times and spot welded the nuts back in place but it dont last. What a good idea I should hace thought of that. Next time for sure.
__________________
|
|
|
Tweet
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Tags |
| cable, issues, tailgate |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|