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| Mazda B-Series Specific Addressing issues specific to the Mazda B-Series trucks |
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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: B2300
Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Class: 2wd
Used For: Work
Posts: 12
Rep Power: 0
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I have a '94 B2300 2.3L 4Cyl with 164K miles and a manual trans. The engine idles at 1200-1500 RPM all the time. I can some times get the idle down to 700 RPM if I drag the clutch while holding the brake. However, this does not always work. Any ideas what could be causing this?
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#2 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Year: 1996
Make: Mazda
Model: B2300 SE
Engine: 2.3L
Class: 2WD
Posts: 31
Rep Power: 4
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My first thought is to check the IAC (Idle Air Control) solenoid. I found my truck doing the exact same thing one morning. Drove it that way for about a week before taking everyone's advice and pulling the darn thing to look at it. Sure enough, the valve was stuck due to carbon build up. Cleaned with Throttle Body safe cleaner, exercised a few times, and been working like a champ ever since.
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#4 |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: B2300
Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Class: 2wd
Used For: Work
Posts: 12
Rep Power: 0
![]() iTrader: (0)
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Hey gang, Remember me? I had an ongoing problem with high idle on my '94 Mazda B2300. I replaced the IAC, and most of the vacuum hoses trying to solve this problem. Nothing worked.
However . . .I MAY have found a solution. I was hooking up my boat trailer yesterday and could NOT get the light to work. They worked last week so I was really scratching my head over this one. I spent most of the afternoon troubleshooting (when I would rather be sailing!) and eliminated EVERYTHING from the trailer lights forward. Finally, I removed the solid-state device that changes a five wire light system to a four wire system and hooked the lights to the truck's electrical system directly. During the drive to the marina I noticed my high idle problem was gone! Again this morning on the way to work it was still gone. Now I HATE problems that fix themselves. But it makes me wonder: Could a faulty electrical device waaaaay back under the rear bumper cause a problem with the IAC waaaaay up under the hood? They are both electrical devices. As far as I know, the only thing those two devices have in common is the chassis ground. I am half tempted to dig that thing out of the trash and reconnect it to see if the problem returns. Stay tuned. This is getting exciting! Last edited by kdowney50 : 09-21-2009 at 01:18 PM. |
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern Canada
Year: 1998
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 2000 EXPL 4.0L OHV
Class: 4x4 Off-Road Package
Used For: Truck Stuff
Posts: 799
Rep Power: 3
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I am gonna stay tuned, my Ranger does the same thing. Bookmarked
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RANGER XLT OFF ROAD <-Click Quote:
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#7 |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: B2300
Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Class: 2wd
Used For: Work
Posts: 12
Rep Power: 0
![]() iTrader: (0)
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The water pump gave out last week. When I pulled it off I found the impeller was all but gone! Replacing the pump solved two problems: The cabin heater had quit working (separate post) and I had this idle problem I couldn't track down since last spring.
Your probably wondering what the water pump has to do the idle. Me too!. Consider: idle is determined by a lot of different things, including engine temperature. All these sensors (02, throttle position, water temperature, fuel pressure etc,) are sending information to the Powertrain Control Module. The PCM uses this info to set the idle. If the water pump is not circulating hot water past the thermostat in the heater hose, then the PCM is getting bogus information on actual engine temp. Thus the PCM sends an "idle up" signal to the throttle position solenoid in order to increase the RPM's until the engine warms up to operating temperature. What clued me in to this was the heater hoses going into the firewall. They were warm near the water pump but cold near the firewall. This led me to speculate that there was a lack of water flow past the thermostat. This lack of flow caused a false temperature reading to the PCM. This false reading led the PMC to think the engine was below normal operating temperature. Therefore, the PCM was trying to keep the engine at high idle until it warmed up. Until some automotive engineer tells me I'm full of it, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Hope this helps. Last edited by kdowney50 : 11-10-2009 at 08:25 PM. |
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#8 |
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Member
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throttle position sensore or take ur tooth brush and carb cleaner and clean ur butterfly in your throttle bodie
__________________
Ummm your post is hard to read & understand, made my brain hurt ! Would you consider editing it ? 92 ford explorer sas leaf front,d44/d60 38s tsl, drive flanges, 5 ton steering, gutted inteerior |
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#9 |
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Member
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it can be your throttle position sensor or take ur tooth brush and carb cleaner and clean ur butterfly in your throttle body
__________________
Ummm your post is hard to read & understand, made my brain hurt ! Would you consider editing it ? 92 ford explorer sas leaf front,d44/d60 38s tsl, drive flanges, 5 ton steering, gutted inteerior |
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#10 |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: B2300
Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Class: 2wd
Used For: Work
Posts: 12
Rep Power: 0
![]() iTrader: (0)
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Sorry, didn't mean to confuse anyone. I looked over my last post and see where I could have been more clear. I've made some changes. Hope it helps. It seemed clear to me only because I have been knee deep in the problem for the last year. Let me know what doesn't make sense to you and I will try to make it plain.
Last edited by kdowney50 : 11-10-2009 at 08:26 PM. |
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