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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Marshfield MA
Year: 94
Make: Ranger
Model: 4x4
Engine: 4.0 OHV
Used For: mini pick up stuff
Posts: 660
Rep Power: 6 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I installed a new Spicer 5-153X u-joint last night. After I put the locks in the joint is very stiff but flexes smoothly .So the needles are OK, but the caps are binding on the ends of the cross. As soon as I took the locks off, the, flex was much easier. Is the tightness normal? Or should I try again? TIA
Last edited by Andy D; 07-10-2012 at 06:42 PM. |
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#2 |
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Einstein I'm NOT
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Uxbridge, Ontario
Year: 1988
Make: Ford
Model: Multi-year Ranger
Engine: 2.3 Carbureted
Class: 2wd
Used For: Space travel
Posts: 13,431
Rep Power: 76 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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My first attempt at installing a U-joint on my Ranger went pretty good...until the drive shaft fell out one night...
Only thing I forgot to do properly was clean the retainer ring slot before putting in the retainers...they didn't seat right and that allowed it to pop out eventually...I think stiff is OK as long as it moves...and is greased properly...
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Rome and my Ranger were not built in a day... |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Marshfield MA
Year: 94
Make: Ranger
Model: 4x4
Engine: 4.0 OHV
Used For: mini pick up stuff
Posts: 660
Rep Power: 6 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Yah, Mark, I have done a few U-joints in my day, this was my first come backer. I basically pounded the snot out of it to get the original apart because it spit the bearings out' The locks came out in crumbs. It didn't like sitting under a tree for a year. Which is where it was when I bought it. So I paid about 12 $ for a Dura last U-joint from Auto Zone back in March. I blame myself for this incident, I tried to get the crud oud out of the grooves. When I took the remaining lock out of it, I used a small screwdriver And I got out a lot more rust. I bought 2 Spicer 5-153 X greaseble U-joints for 27 $ from Crown Automotive. The center bearing is gonna get replaced next. I wire wheeled the crud off the 15/16 nut Then I punched a set of reference marks on the yoke and the shaft before I broke the nut loose. My 1/2'' breaker bar worked great. Then I just tapped the bearing off with a claw hammer.
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Year: 1984
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II
Engine: 2.8l
Class: 4x4
Used For: To take up space in my driveway
Posts: 369
Rep Power: 3 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Stiff is ok but i didnt put mine in stiff just tap on the u joints back and forth without the retaining rings in and eventually they will be butta. So just work them back and forth use a socket put it on one cap tap it till it goes all the way the other way then tap it from the other way and eventually it will loosen up.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Huntington, In.
Year: 1990
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Class: 2WD street
Posts: 1,633
Rep Power: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (2)
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This is the way to do it. I wouldn't hit the caps.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Marshfield MA
Year: 94
Make: Ranger
Model: 4x4
Engine: 4.0 OHV
Used For: mini pick up stuff
Posts: 660
Rep Power: 6 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Thanks for all the info. I was a carpenter for 15 yrs . A hammer is the first tool I reach for . I'll try tapping the yokes
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