4.0l & Np435 & 1356 - Page 10

supersamikc · 04-01-2012, 07:00 PM

did you run your stock 4.0 inspection plate?

Rulebreaker · 04-01-2012, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supersamikc

did you run your stock 4.0 inspection plate?

yes

supersamikc · 06-20-2012, 10:50 AM

another question for someone, could you run a small block c6 behind it?

Rulebreaker · 06-20-2012, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supersamikc

another question for someone, could you run a small block c6 behind it?

I'd sell you just the adapter plate if you want to figure out a way to hook a C6 converter to a 4.0L flex plate. I'm guessing you would need an adapter plate for the 4.0L flex plate. 435 has much better gearing so thats the best way to go for gearing purposes. RB

Shran · 06-20-2012, 08:48 PM

What vehicle did your slave cylinder come from? I need to do something different with mine, the clutch pedal is insanely hard to push. I'm using a '75 Toyota Land Cruiser slave right now.

Rulebreaker · 06-20-2012, 09:15 PM

http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-..._Parts&vxp=mtr

Shran · 06-20-2012, 10:02 PM

Nice, thanks! How does your clutch pedal feel? I am going for as light as possible.

Rulebreaker · 06-21-2012, 08:40 AM

The feel is more about the master/slave relationship. I think a smaller master bore is easier than a large master bore. So a 5/8 master would be easier to push than say a 7/8. I'm saying this all by memory from a truck I worked on years ago so dont quote me on this.

Shran · 06-21-2012, 11:47 AM

Been doing some research to refresh my memory today since the current master/slave has been in the truck for two years.

Speedway had good documentation for their slave cylinders (which look exactly like the eBay one above) and they recommend using a 3/4 bore master and a 7/8 bore slave with 3/16 hose. If you want quicker clutch action, use a 1/4 hose.

Looks like it has something to do with volume of fluid - ie, small (3/4 bore) pushing large (7/8) or vice versa.

Factory Ranger master cylinders are 3/4 bore, and my Toyota slave is 3/4 bore so I believe that is my problem. Will be ordering a new slave shortly.

Shran · 09-10-2012, 10:29 AM

I finally got around to fixing my slave cylinder issue and thought I'd add the solution here since it is relevant. So far so good, pedal is much easier to push and the clutch feels like it just works better.

Speedway sells a 7/8 bore push slave cylinder that I bought. The bracket was very easy to build, just a piece of angle iron with 4 holes drilled in it. I reused the fittings and push rod from my Toyota slave. The only other comment I have is that you MUST use the '82-up bellhousing that has the slave cylinder mounts cast into it.

Link to the one I bought:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-T...nder,1944.html

supersamikc · 10-09-2012, 10:01 PM

what have you guys been doing for exhaust, or manifolds? my manifolds exit pretty close to the adapter and do not leave much or any room to run the down pipes. motor isout of a 93 ranger 4.0 stock manifolds

supersamikc · 10-17-2012, 08:03 PM

anyone????

04-01-2012, 07:00 PM	#109
supersamikc New Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	did you run your stock 4.0 inspection plate?
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06-20-2012, 10:50 AM	#111
supersamikc New Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	another question for someone, could you run a small block c6 behind it?
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06-20-2012, 08:48 PM	#113
Shran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rapid City SD Posts: 3,140 Rep Power: 17 iTrader: (3)	What vehicle did your slave cylinder come from? I need to do something different with mine, the clutch pedal is insanely hard to push. I'm using a '75 Toyota Land Cruiser slave right now. __________________ 1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19
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06-20-2012, 09:15 PM	#114
Rulebreaker Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Manton,MI Year: 1993 Make: Ford Model: Broncostar Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Extreme Used For: offroading family style Posts: 573 Rep Power: 13 iTrader: (3)	http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-..._Parts&vxp=mtr __________________ 93 Aerostar 4.0L Np435 8.8" with 4.11's D44 SAS Locked F&R 22" lift 35" claws and a Warn 8000 All 89 B2 RIP 98 Ranger 4x2 3.0L
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06-20-2012, 10:02 PM	#115
Shran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rapid City SD Posts: 3,140 Rep Power: 17 iTrader: (3)	Nice, thanks! How does your clutch pedal feel? I am going for as light as possible. __________________ 1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19
	Tweet

06-21-2012, 08:40 AM	#116
Rulebreaker Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Manton,MI Year: 1993 Make: Ford Model: Broncostar Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Extreme Used For: offroading family style Posts: 573 Rep Power: 13 iTrader: (3)	The feel is more about the master/slave relationship. I think a smaller master bore is easier than a large master bore. So a 5/8 master would be easier to push than say a 7/8. I'm saying this all by memory from a truck I worked on years ago so dont quote me on this. __________________ 93 Aerostar 4.0L Np435 8.8" with 4.11's D44 SAS Locked F&R 22" lift 35" claws and a Warn 8000 All 89 B2 RIP 98 Ranger 4x2 3.0L
	Tweet

06-21-2012, 11:47 AM	#117
Shran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rapid City SD Posts: 3,140 Rep Power: 17 iTrader: (3)	Been doing some research to refresh my memory today since the current master/slave has been in the truck for two years. Speedway had good documentation for their slave cylinders (which look exactly like the eBay one above) and they recommend using a 3/4 bore master and a 7/8 bore slave with 3/16 hose. If you want quicker clutch action, use a 1/4 hose. Looks like it has something to do with volume of fluid - ie, small (3/4 bore) pushing large (7/8) or vice versa. Factory Ranger master cylinders are 3/4 bore, and my Toyota slave is 3/4 bore so I believe that is my problem. Will be ordering a new slave shortly. __________________ 1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19
	Tweet

09-10-2012, 10:29 AM	#118
Shran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rapid City SD Posts: 3,140 Rep Power: 17 iTrader: (3)	I finally got around to fixing my slave cylinder issue and thought I'd add the solution here since it is relevant. So far so good, pedal is much easier to push and the clutch feels like it just works better. Speedway sells a 7/8 bore push slave cylinder that I bought. The bracket was very easy to build, just a piece of angle iron with 4 holes drilled in it. I reused the fittings and push rod from my Toyota slave. The only other comment I have is that you MUST use the '82-up bellhousing that has the slave cylinder mounts cast into it. Link to the one I bought: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-T...nder,1944.html __________________ 1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19
	Tweet

10-09-2012, 10:01 PM	#119
supersamikc New Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	what have you guys been doing for exhaust, or manifolds? my manifolds exit pretty close to the adapter and do not leave much or any room to run the down pipes. motor isout of a 93 ranger 4.0 stock manifolds
	Tweet

10-17-2012, 08:03 PM	#120
supersamikc New Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	anyone????
	Tweet

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