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#1 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Abrams, WI
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver, Trail Driving
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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so i think my throwout bearing is going bad again after 10,000 miles about just like the last one. the last one was a duralast one i think that came with the slave but the new one was a brute power one. are we doing something wrong? or is it just my driving? or is it just bad/ cheap parts? what should i do and what should i replace it with?
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1987 Ranger XLT 2.9, FM145 5 speed, Manual 1350, 8.8 3.73LS My build thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=127308 |
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#2 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Abrams, WI
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver, Trail Driving
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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the main symptom im having is difficulty shifting into first and second while its moving unless i slam it into gear. and no i dont try to shift into first going to fast. if i have the clutch engaged i can get it into second easy without pushing the clutch in at 2000 rpms but if i try and do it with the clutch in it wont go
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1987 Ranger XLT 2.9, FM145 5 speed, Manual 1350, 8.8 3.73LS My build thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=127308 |
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#3 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Abrams, WI
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver, Trail Driving
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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so im starting to think it isnt the throwout bearing but rather air in the system. Is there a good and easy way to get the air out of the system with the master cylinder still in the truck? i tried pushing it all the way to the floor and releasing it fast and that didnt work. id rather not take it out to bench bleed it. Its on an 87 and the line and master and slave are for the 87 and its an fm145
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1987 Ranger XLT 2.9, FM145 5 speed, Manual 1350, 8.8 3.73LS My build thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=127308 |
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#4 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Abrams, WI
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver, Trail Driving
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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oh and i can lift up the pedal maybe half an inch maybe less to the stops and it just drops down again.
__________________
1987 Ranger XLT 2.9, FM145 5 speed, Manual 1350, 8.8 3.73LS My build thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=127308 |
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#5 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: East-Central Pennsylvania
Year: 1987... sorta
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Supercab
Engine: '93 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Roadtrip Warrior
Posts: 7,168
Rep Power: 47 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (18)
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One thing you can try on the '85-87 clutch setup...
And yes, this really works. With the engine not running and the parking brake set (or wheels chocked) press clutch pedal right to the firewall, hold it there for 10-15seconds, the "Slip" your foot off of the pedal so it SNAPS up... Wait 10-15min and repeat this process. The system on those trucks will bleed itself more effectively this way than somone pumping on the pedal like it was a brake system. AD
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Gun Control - A theory espoused by some monumentally stupid people; who claim to believe, against all logic and common sense, that a violent predator who ignores the laws prohibiting them from robbing, raping, kidnapping, torturing and killing their fellow human beings will obey a law telling them that they cannot own a gun. |
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#6 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Abrams, WI
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver, Trail Driving
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (0)
|
would it work to unbolt it from the firewall and tilt it so its flatter and push it in? or is it easier to just do it like you said
__________________
1987 Ranger XLT 2.9, FM145 5 speed, Manual 1350, 8.8 3.73LS My build thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=127308 |
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