Can't remove transmission line from radiator

exbass94 · 04-27-2012, 05:35 PM

1994 Ford Bronco- I'm trying to replace the radiator. I can't disconnect the transmission lines from it. The line is rusted to the fitting. When I try to unscrew the fitting, the whole line starts to twist with it

. How can I get the fitting loose without destroying the line?

**adsm08** · 04-27-2012, 05:39 PM

Penetrating oil. Just keep soaking it.

martin · 04-27-2012, 06:55 PM

Just cut the line, then repair it afterwards with a short piece of flexible, it's only a low pressure line. Not worth fighting with it.

exbass94 · 04-28-2012, 07:29 AM

Well, I couldn't get the lines off without FUBARing the ends. So I cut the ends off and flared the lines. I got some barbed ends that I can thread into the radiator, and I'll run rubber line from the barbs to the flared lines. Hopefully it won't leak.

kimcrwbr1 · 04-28-2012, 07:52 AM

That will work your gonna want to double clamp the hoses it may not be high pressure but your working with high temps also. Adding a good tranny cooler to the front of the radiator and eliminating the cooler lines to the radiator is allways a good upgrade. If the engine overheats it also will overheat the tranny

**shane96ranger** · 04-28-2012, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kimcrwbr1

That will work your gonna want to double clamp the hoses it may not be high pressure but your working with high temps also. Adding a good tranny cooler to the front of the radiator and eliminating the cooler lines to the radiator is allways a good upgrade. If the engine overheats it also will overheat the tranny

I approve of this advice.

**AllanD** · 04-28-2012, 10:26 AM

I would have recommended simply cutting the line in a convenient location with a mini "Imp" style tubing cutter and repair it after the fact with a brass compression union.

AD

exbass94 · 04-29-2012, 10:07 AM

Well the rubber hose method didn't work out. The hose barbs were the wrong size, among other issues. I ended up putting some tube nuts on the lines, custom bent some 5/16" brake line, and joined it to the lines with brake unions. It's a much better, permanent fix and I'm pretty proud of it.

I'll be firing it up later today and I'll see how it does.

Dugan · 05-01-2012, 06:39 AM

Anytime you go from metal to rubber to metal, you have to flare the ends of the metal and put your clamp around it. Numerous times ive seen people who try to go straight over lines where I use to work and wonder why they have leaks.

04-27-2012, 05:35 PM	#1
exbass94 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Guilford, CT Year: 2006, 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger, Explorer Engine: 4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV Class: 4x4 Used For: Pavement Poundin' Posts: 3,076 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	Can't remove transmission line from radiator 1994 Ford Bronco- I'm trying to replace the radiator. I can't disconnect the transmission lines from it. The line is rusted to the fitting. When I try to unscrew the fitting, the whole line starts to twist with it . How can I get the fitting loose without destroying the line? __________________ 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 2-dr Extended Cab, 45k miles 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 2-dr 4x4, 178k miles
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04-27-2012, 06:55 PM	#3
martin Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: St Bruno, Quebec Year: 1984 1991 Make: ford Model: b2 explorer Posts: 2,776 Rep Power: 20 iTrader: (0)	Just cut the line, then repair it afterwards with a short piece of flexible, it's only a low pressure line. Not worth fighting with it.
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04-28-2012, 07:29 AM	#4
exbass94 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Guilford, CT Year: 2006, 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger, Explorer Engine: 4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV Class: 4x4 Used For: Pavement Poundin' Posts: 3,076 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	Well, I couldn't get the lines off without FUBARing the ends. So I cut the ends off and flared the lines. I got some barbed ends that I can thread into the radiator, and I'll run rubber line from the barbs to the flared lines. Hopefully it won't leak. __________________ 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 2-dr Extended Cab, 45k miles 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 2-dr 4x4, 178k miles
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04-28-2012, 07:52 AM	#5
kimcrwbr1 Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: maplevalley WA Year: 1983 Make: ford Model: ranger Engine: 2.8l Class: 2WD street Used For: DD tow boat Posts: 4,647 Rep Power: 19 iTrader: (0)	That will work your gonna want to double clamp the hoses it may not be high pressure but your working with high temps also. Adding a good tranny cooler to the front of the radiator and eliminating the cooler lines to the radiator is allways a good upgrade. If the engine overheats it also will overheat the tranny __________________ it takes a nickle to go first class when it stops hurting it will feel alot better
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04-28-2012, 10:26 AM	#7
AllanD RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: East-Central Pennsylvania Year: 1987... sorta Make: Ford Model: Ranger Supercab Engine: '93 4.0 Class: 4x4 Used For: Roadtrip Warrior Posts: 7,168 Rep Power: 47 iTrader: (18)	I would have recommended simply cutting the line in a convenient location with a mini "Imp" style tubing cutter and repair it after the fact with a brass compression union. AD __________________ Gun Control - A theory espoused by some monumentally stupid people; who claim to believe, against all logic and common sense, that a violent predator who ignores the laws prohibiting them from robbing, raping, kidnapping, torturing and killing their fellow human beings will obey a law telling them that they cannot own a gun.
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04-29-2012, 10:07 AM	#8
exbass94 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Guilford, CT Year: 2006, 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger, Explorer Engine: 4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV Class: 4x4 Used For: Pavement Poundin' Posts: 3,076 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	Well the rubber hose method didn't work out. The hose barbs were the wrong size, among other issues. I ended up putting some tube nuts on the lines, custom bent some 5/16" brake line, and joined it to the lines with brake unions. It's a much better, permanent fix and I'm pretty proud of it. I'll be firing it up later today and I'll see how it does. __________________ 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 2-dr Extended Cab, 45k miles 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 2-dr 4x4, 178k miles
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05-01-2012, 06:39 AM	#9
Dugan Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Southampton, NJ Year: 1989, 1949 Make: Ford, IH Model: Ranger, KB-1 Engine: 2.9L, 355 SBC Class: 4x4, Neighborhood Tormenting Used For: DD & FUN Posts: 463 Rep Power: 3 iTrader: (0)	Anytime you go from metal to rubber to metal, you have to flare the ends of the metal and put your clamp around it. Numerous times ive seen people who try to go straight over lines where I use to work and wonder why they have leaks. __________________ 89' Ranger 2.9L 5 Spd 4.56s Locked Frt/Rear 6" Long Arm Lift 3" Body 35x12.5 MT/R BUILD -=- AHG Performance -=- South Jersey SwampAss 4x4 Club Monster Mazda B4000 Build
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