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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Davisburg, Mi.
Year: 1984, 1997
Make: Ford
Model: Rangers
Engine: 302, 2.3
Used For: Literally everything.
Posts: 1,666
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I'll give the local ones a call and see what they actually charge. Maybe I'll frame out that patio in front of the doors after all. Meanwhile, borrowed a rotary hammer and the concrete is only 3" thick! I honestly thought it was heavier duty. We've even had a complete engine block fall on it and it only left a little dent. The area is marked out (we're going 4'x4') and we're renting the saw tomorrow. Thank you gentlemen, you have reassured me I can make this work one way or another.
__________________
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits" - Albert Einstein Never give up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6hz_s2XIAU 1984 Ranger - std cab, long bed: The Deathtrap 302; T18; D20 Tcase; 6' lift; 4.56 gears; 33' pro comp MT's; Aussie locked rear 1997 Ranger - std cab, short bed: Red Ranger 2.3L; M50D R1; 2wd; 4.56 gears; Explorer 8.8; ARB locker; 235/75R15 AT's (soon to undergo 4x4 conversion |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Year: 1997
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Class: 2wd
Used For: trying to get good gas mileage but not
Posts: 217
Rep Power: 3 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Now since your pouring mostly footing pads, you might be alright with the mixer, but I think you'd be better off getting a truck to come in if you're pouring that many yards. My dad and I extended my back patio last fall, with a perimeter footing, and a simple rectangular 8'x8' pad. I ordered redi mix. The truck was able to boom into my backyard about halfway from the property line to the patio, and we wheel barrowed back and forth (maybe a 12' path).
He's a superintendent for a construction company (going on 40 years of doing this), and it was just me and him and intermittent help from an older gentleman (neighbor) and 6 yds of concrete. And we barely made it. When he was finishing it out, it was starting to get too far set up. We maxed out what 2 guys could do. Mixing that much concrete in a mixer might not give you the results you want...though I guess you have the luxury of doing it in two jobs 1 for each footing, and you might be alright as you say it would be about 5.5yds in a concentrated area that you might be able to keep up. For me it was closer to $100/cu. yd. here in KS (near KC). It was a little over. I just remember all the form work and materials and new tools I had to buy was close to $300, and the total was around $1000. So I'm pretty confident it was $100/cu. yd and some delivery surcharges and a fuel surcharge. Last edited by Str8sixfan; 04-28-2012 at 05:42 PM. Reason: cost per yard |
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#15 | |
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\----===FoMoCo===----/
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Utah
Year: 1997 / 1989
Make: Ford
Model: F150 XLT / Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6 Triton / 5.0
Class: 4X4 / Hot Rod
Used For: Everything / The war on imports
Posts: 7,724
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#16 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizpna
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Class: 2WD
Used For: Work
Posts: 21
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I use a guy here in Phoenix that has a truck that mixes the amount you need right at the jobsite. He specializes in small batches. Beats the hell out of lifting and transporting all those bags! I think his minimum is about $250.00
homefix |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Davisburg, Mi.
Year: 1984, 1997
Make: Ford
Model: Rangers
Engine: 302, 2.3
Used For: Literally everything.
Posts: 1,666
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Well really we're only using a yard (combined) between the 2 pads.
More and more I'm thinking we can just rent a small mixer and do it ourselves. I just had no idea how much time we had between batches or if they'd crack if we did multiple pours. According to those here, if I keep it damp and don't dilly-dally I should be fine. You're probably right about the redi-mix stuff being higher quality, but we just don't have enough yardage. We do have money to spend on this thing but I can't say "spend whatever because we need to be safe". I just mean we don't exactly have unlimited funds here. HOWEVER, I do still plan on calling the redi-mix companies out here, just to see what they say (or hear them laugh). We're doing a 4'x4', 8" thick slab and using longer bolts that have a higher tear out rating than the shorter ones (if I read their strength sheet correctly), and (for now as of this post) using the highest strength stuff we can get at the local building stores.
__________________
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits" - Albert Einstein Never give up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6hz_s2XIAU 1984 Ranger - std cab, long bed: The Deathtrap 302; T18; D20 Tcase; 6' lift; 4.56 gears; 33' pro comp MT's; Aussie locked rear 1997 Ranger - std cab, short bed: Red Ranger 2.3L; M50D R1; 2wd; 4.56 gears; Explorer 8.8; ARB locker; 235/75R15 AT's (soon to undergo 4x4 conversion |
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#18 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Butler, PA, USSA
Year: 95
Make: Ford
Model: F-150
Engine: 4.9L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Work
Posts: 3,180
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The boss of the company I worked for was a firm believer in making sure the entire crew was better educated. There were several times that he took the whole crew to go through a course on certain kinds of concrete work and get us all certified. Of course, the end result was that any time I walk around and see concrete work failing, I look at it and know what they screwed up. Quote:
For exterior concrete you'll want a higher air content than for interior work. Interior you want a lower air content because it is protected from the weather and high air makes it hard to finish properly (smooth troweled). Exterior concrete needs more air to make it more resistant to freeze/thaw damage and the like, but here's the secret - unless you REQUEST an air content when you order, you just get whatever they put in it. Locally we've had more success ordering a higher air content (6-8%), you just have to ask for it (and we also had the equipment to test to make sure we were getting the right amount). As to having the engine fall on it and barely making a dent, there are a couple things that could be a factor as to why that was the result. It could be a higher PSI concrete (you can get through most redi-mix companies concrete up to 10,000 psi), it could have a solid compacted stone base (we have successfully driven loaded concrete mixers on 4" thick concrete driveways that we poured which had a thick base of modified (2a) limestone under them, it could have been properly moisture cured (as long as moisture is present, concrete molecules will continue their process of hydrating and continue to harden - this results in concrete that is green or blue in the middle over the right amount of time), it could be old style concrete that did not have all the chemicals and water reducers that are used today (which tends to make a harder slab), or it could have been because someone coated the floor with a floor hardening agent. Or some combination of those factors.
__________________
"lil Blue" 2000 Ranger Supercab xlt: 3.0L, 5-spd, 2wd "S**tbrick" 1988 Bronco II Eddie Bauer: 4.0L, auto, 4x4 1989 Bronco II choptop: 2.9L, 5-spd, 4x4, 7" lift, locked f/r, 33's "Phoenix" 1986 Bronco II xl: 2.9L, auto, 4x4 (future trail toy) 1989 Ranger parts donor: 4cyl, manual trans, 4x4 |
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#19 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Columbus, Indiana
Year: 1989
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4X4
Used For: a chicken house
Posts: 5,855
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You can do it yourself Ledd.
__________________
'83 Ranger cab, '89 B2 frame, 4.0, C5, D35/8.8, 4.10s, Lockrights. '87 Chevy crew 6.2 Banks turbodiesel TH400 GearVendors 4.10 14-bolt Detroit '96 VW Passat Tdi '00 Ford E350 15-pax Powerstroke '09 Suzuki TU250X '04 Moto Guzzi Breva http://willwills.com/ |
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