distributor problem? maybe worse?

[83_Ranger]

So I have a 1983 ranger with 4x4 that was acting up not getting spark. First I tried a new coil, that got me nowhere. When i replaced the tfi module I found that the female end where the tfi plugs into the distributor was melted away, I got a new rebuilt distributor. After replacing all this I got her to run, as I was messing with the timing she died... And would not start again the rest of the day. So the next day I thought my brand new tfi module was overheating, I slapped a second tfi on then ran her till she died, slapped on the COLD tfi and it still wouldent start. Same problem. At this point I was fed up and took it to a shop. Long story short they did everything I did and then said they coundent help me and recomended I take it to a Ford Dealership. I can't pay that much to tow it there then pay the rediculous $100/ hr. All this happens about a month ago. It's just sitting now. It still starts and will run anywhere from 2-15 mins then not start agian. Takes anywhere from 30 mins to 16 hours for it to want to start again. Really random. Seems to die faster if I'm giving it gas running it at higher rpms, but like I said its really random.

I just found out I don't have the stock distributor on it. It is a bigger one with a snap on cap.
It's a motorcraft E47E-12131-AA
I think the stock one is a motorcraft E43E-12131-AB

Could this be my problem?
I don't know what to do with it.

[dangerranger83]

Welcome to TRS...lets see if we can help you out here.

First off if your state doesnt do emissions testing or inspections, etc... then I recommend doing the Duraspark conversion to it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...Duraspark.html

I have been running mine for two years now and a few other have been too (they will be in here soon to chime in more on other things to do and whatnot such as valve stem seal replacing, tuning tips etc....)

[kimcrwbr1]

Disconnect the battery and clean all the electrical connecters you can find with electrical cleaner and put them together with dielectric grease. Make sure everything is plugged in and all the vacuum lines are clear and connected properly. never start or run the engine with a sensor disconnected or you will need to reset the computer. To reset the computer bisconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour. Have you replaced the PCV valve allways put a new PCV with spark plugs. You can pull the codes with a test light but get all the wiring and vacuum lines correct and then see how it runs.

[kimcrwbr1]

Make sure the egr bleed tube is clear it goes to the closest solenoid to the firewall and goes up under the air horn on the carb it allows the egr to close if it is plugged the egr will stay open and the engine will not idle.

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...mhoseguide.jpg

[kimcrwbr1]

It`s the yellow tube.

[rezmedic]

Fuel filter?

I had a car that had sediment in Carb bowl and when it ran it stirred up all the gunk and plugged up carb after it died all the sediment settled back to base and it would start again until all the sediment was stirred up and plugged it up again then it would die until the sediment settled then....

[enginepaul]

A melted fitting on your TFI shows something is seriously wrong with the circuit. I think you should pull codes before replacing anything; you may want to search this site and at least get a manual.
Trouble shooting the stock system can be time consuming and without the factory manual, very difficult.
FIRST decide if you need or want the factory system or if you want to go the DuraSpark route.

The last thing I would suspect is the distributor if it ran at all, it is probably something else.

[kimcrwbr1]

It sounds like wiring to me disconnect the battery, look for burnt bare wires and fix as necessary, inspect all the connectors and find all the grounds and sand metal to metal. Make sure everything is good then hook the battery up and start it. see if it improves.

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...iagnostic.html

[83_Ranger]

Okay guys thanks for your responses, sorry it took so long for me to respond back. Okay so I checked the pvc valve and it was good, still rattled. All my vacuum lines were good, and the solenoid seemed fine. I started to check grounds and I replaced the one next to the brain box under the dash on the passenger side. I'm not sure what other grounds to check or where they are. Could someone tell me where check? I went to check the spark plug I put in a while ago( with only 2 hrs ideling and maybe 10 miles on that plug) it was compleatly black. I pulled the rest of them and they were all blackened, but the two rear cylinder 3 and 6 were the worst. So I'm guessing it running rich. how would you adjust that, anything with the timing? Ideas?

Thanks