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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Year: 2006
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Sport
Engine: 3.0
Posts: 301
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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That is what my shop charged me here is the bill. They told me they hade to remove the steering nuckle to do the balljoint is that correct? Thank god I didn't need to do both otherwise I would be out nearly half a grand.
lower balljoint $19 shop supplies $12 steering nuckle remove replace $131 balljoint remove replace $34 total= $196 + tax on top |
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#2 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: People's Republic of Michiganistan, United Socialist Republic of America
Year: 99, 96
Make: Lincoln, Ford
Model: Continental, F350 CC dually
Engine: 32v DOHC 4.6L V8, powerstroke
Class: fwd, 2wd
Used For: rice killer,Because I wanted it
Posts: 5,991
Rep Power: 36 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I don't know if the nuckle has to come off or not but I would have done both sides... the new one will cause the other side to wear faster and visa versa.......
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#3 |
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Coast Mountain Crawlers
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Terrace, BC, Canada
Year: 1991/1997/2008
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty
Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter
Posts: 7,470
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Yes the knuckle has to come off. While you were in there you are stupid not to change both ball joints....there isn't much extra labour as they are already in there. Price doesn't seem far fetched to me at all...
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http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock |
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#4 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: daily driver, trail ready
Posts: 990
Rep Power: 8 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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I'm a cheap ass so I would've done it myself. However that reasonable.
Sent from road while ignoring traffic |
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: People's Republic of Michiganistan, United Socialist Republic of America
Year: 99, 96
Make: Lincoln, Ford
Model: Continental, F350 CC dually
Engine: 32v DOHC 4.6L V8, powerstroke
Class: fwd, 2wd
Used For: rice killer,Because I wanted it
Posts: 5,991
Rep Power: 36 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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maybe someday I will clue you in on what ball joints, tie rod ends, and hub assemblies with labor cost on a 99 Continental......
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Belleville, MI
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4X4
Used For: Soon to be a daily driver
Posts: 676
Rep Power: 5 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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My dad used to own an auto shop and was a mechanic for at least a decade before he quit and went into engineering. we had a shop last year and the thing he loved to do the most was suspension work. it's so easy and he charged you what Mitchell's said it would take for labor. you also have a price markup for the part ( our shop was 1.67 times the price of what we got the part for)
Labor is where it gets you, it's mostly around $70 an hour so...say the book says it takes an average guy 4 hours, you get charged for 4 hours even if it takes them 3 or 5. if i were you i'd just do that sort of stuff yourself. it really isn't that hard unless you get that one bolt that doesn't want to come off or something along those lines.
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext cab, 4x4, 4.0, auto, manual hubs, 6 inch lift, ton's of things wrong and it'll probably go to my brother! 1999 Ford Ranger Ext cab 4x4, 4.0, 5 speed, Stock stock stock! |
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#7 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: daily driver, trail ready
Posts: 990
Rep Power: 8 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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$70 an hour is nice, most places charge $90 to $100
Sent from road while ignoring traffic |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Medford, Oregon.
Year: 1996
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 3.0
Class: 4x4 offroad
Used For: Driving over stuff
Posts: 3,117
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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That is a pretty fair deal, I got quoted 500 then did it myself for much cheaper
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#9 |
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MALL CRAWLER POST WHORE!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Walls, MS
Year: 1988
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II
Engine: 4.0 v6
Class: 4x4
Used For: Taking my Money
Posts: 9,970
Rep Power: 51 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (4)
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I did it for $200 plus price of parts a couple weeks again for some guy on a ranger....
For a shop, yeah that's about right. If anything it's cheaper than I thought it'd be. Talked him into ordering all of them from rock auto and replacing all 4. |
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#10 | |
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Motorboater (.Y.)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Raleigh, NC
Year: 1988, 2000
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II (Eddie Bauer), Explorer
Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L
Class: 4x4, 2WD
Used For: Annoying the old ball and chain.
Posts: 6,352
Rep Power: 48 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (6)
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meineke did mine a few years ago and charged me around $400 for just one. i didnt have time to do it myself, but i'll never take it to the them again, for anything. they did my front brakes too and charged about the same. they grind and make all sorts of noise, but the jackasses there just say "i dont hear anything" or "well maybe you should replace the rear brakes".....mofos.....this is why i'd rather just do stuff myself. end rant
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BUILD THREAD<<<<<<<<<<<<< The Tikki Torch Build Thread 1988 Bronco II 4x4 2.9, FM146, 1350M, Disc 8.8, D30 SAS, 3.73's, 31's (for now) 2000 Explorer 4.0 2WD DD Everything I need to know about Islam, I learned on 9/11. The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited. Quote:
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#11 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: holtville, ca
Year: 1997
Make: FORD
Model: F150
Engine: 4.2l manual
Class: 2WD Off-Road
Used For: DD/Fun
Posts: 1,369
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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shit mine got done for free when i had my 5.0 kit installed
and i got a super great deal on the 5.0 kit!!! so i dont feel too bad about spending 1200 bux on a 5.0 performance kit (yes that includes all parts and installition)
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#12 |
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Member
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my dad and i do all our work and if your going to replace one ball joint why not replace them both so you don't have to do it again a few months later. and then risk messing up the other one you put in there. the local shop wanted $800 to replace 1 fuel injector and the gas filter on my moms 2002 explorer sport. dad and I did it it cost $30 in parts and took less than an hour to do
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