Ranger Edge long travel input please

[2kxlt3.slow]

When you say using mild steel is fine for the building of the suspension components would that be hot rolled or cold rolled. just done a lot of searching and cant find definitive answer, im planning on fabing my own suspension aswell, planning on using 3/16 cold rolled if i can find it were im at, unless hot rolled is ok then thats everywere.

[redrider121]

I am working with a few professors at Sac State on which materials to use. I've come to the conclusion that, even though Chromoly is wayyy stronger, it doesn't have as long of a life span. So what I'm trying to say is that unless your on a professional, sponsored team and scrapping the frame/suspension every two years at the longest, it's vulnerable for failure because of fatigue.

So what this means is stronger the material=brittleness=fatigue=short life= $$$$. This goes for any material that is stronger. It seems as if standard hot rolled steel is the best way to go.

Cold rolled means its just cut and rolled super precisely to your specifications. But if your going to weld it, there will be some slight warpage which defeats the purpose of cold rolled haha. But maybe I'm getting cold rolled and flat bar confused....

[Cody Ray]

I believe flat bar can be hot or cold rolled. Cold rolling work hardens the metal and improves surface finish but requires multiple passes to produce the same thickness as hot rolled.

[doyouquaxu]

Originally Posted by redrider121

I am working with a few professors at Sac State on which materials to use. I've come to the conclusion that, even though Chromoly is wayyy stronger, it doesn't have as long of a life span. So what I'm trying to say is that unless your on a professional, sponsored team and scrapping the frame/suspension every two years at the longest, it's vulnerable for failure because of fatigue.

So what this means is stronger the material=brittleness=fatigue=short life= $$$$. This goes for any material that is stronger. It seems as if standard hot rolled steel is the best way to go.

Cold rolled means its just cut and rolled super precisely to your specifications. But if your going to weld it, there will be some slight warpage which defeats the purpose of cold rolled haha. But maybe I'm getting cold rolled and flat bar confused....

on a race truck, i could see fatigue being an issue. but i doubt the OP will be out racing every chance he gets, if at all. 4130 would be fine and would hold up for the life of the truck.

lesser grades of metal can and are used, 4130's main reason for use is weight savings by being able to use a thinner piece of metal throughout. on a properly designed arm, you can use a bit thicker cold rolled plate and still be just as well off as using 4130.

[2kxlt3.slow]

From the reading ive done, if i understand correctly cold rolled is sent through the rollers at room temp making it both cleaner to work with than hot rolled but also tighter compression of the molecuels within the metal which equalls higher stregth? is that accurate? also the reason for asking is who can afford 4130 as a privateer building a DD/play truck. Cold rolled sheet is like 5x the price of hot rolled. i can swing cold rolled if it is infact stronger then hot rolled but if hot rolled is fine if you structure properly i would just go with that.

[redrider121]

Alright, I know this thread is kind of old and maybe gone crap lol. Anyways, I was just going to ask if anyone thinks I should attempt to use the stock uprights and spindles, or if I should fabricate my own?

Oh and a quick update, I think I'm going to make a subframe that bolts straight in to the existing a-arm/control arm locations with tabs for the new a-arms and control arms mounted a little bit lower. Also the subframe is going to have the shock hoops connected to it. The reasoning is it could give the front end some added strength, and better ground clearance. I know it will be heavier, but thats not the biggest concern. The biggest concern is making it as bolt-on as possible incase I ever need to go back to stock. And with the shock hoops mounted to the subframe, I'll only need to cut the wheel wells in one location so the cross bar for the top of the shock hoops can be mounted.

Nothing has happened yet, but as soon as it does, Ill post pictures.

[doyouquaxu]

so... you want to make your own drop brackets? personally, i would use the stock frame mounting points and build a sub frame connecting those mounts to keep them from bending/breaking.

since you're fabricating this yourself, i would honestly say build a new spindle and have it utilize a bolt on hub. blitzkrieg sells a snout block for like 150/pair that you can bolt a d35 off an older 4x4 ranger/explorer to, a d44, or anyone's race hub. the stock ranger snouts and bearings do not like big tires and the beating of off roading at higher speeds. you can also build a few inches of lift into the spindle so you get some added ground clearance.