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| 4WD Systems Transfer Cases & Locking Hubs. Forum sponsored by The Shiftster |
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#1 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Aurora, CO
Year: 1998
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 3.0L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver
Posts: 796
Rep Power: 12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I just noticed today while driving an intermittent grinding noise coming from the front right wheel. The faster I go the faster the grinding, and vise versa when going slow. I got home and pulled off the hub and holy cow was there a lot of crap in there. I've cleaned this 3 times before but its never been this bad, so something is definitely wrong.
![]() I got out my air compressor and sprayed air in the hub and there was a ton of dirt in there. Then I decided to take off the drivers side hub and it was perfect! ![]() ![]() So after spraying out the passenger side I put it all back together and drove around and the noise is still there. I would test to see if it makes the noise in 4x4 but it doesn't work and I'm thinking this may be why. I'm at a loss, help me please! |
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#2 |
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on DUH Learning Curve
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Year: 99
Make: FoMoCo
Model: XL 2-dr ext cab "Sport", vinyl flooring, 7.5diff 3L73, PVHubs=S.O.L.
Engine: 3.0 (Flex)-->M5OD
Class: 4x4
Used For: Sugar Sand Trails
Posts: 645
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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The excessive dirt intrusion suggests one or both of the O-ring seals has failed, meaning that even if hub wasn't fouled/jammed up with all that dirt, there wouldn't be any effective vacuum force to operate the hub in and out.
Check the Tech Library for the easy way to operate your hubs manually, should you need the 4WD functionality. I've never had that noise you describe, but have read here on TRS something about CV joint boot/clamp scraping on steering knuckle...?? If noise increases when turning left (higher load) or decreases when turning right (less loading), then it's probably the sealed/UNserviceable (pricey) wheel bearing/hub assembly "big enchilada"s. Include more details about total mileage, etc. I'm about to undertake the 4WD-PVH "tune-up"... let you know what I learn. |
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#3 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Aurora, CO
Year: 1998
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 3.0L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Daily Driver
Posts: 796
Rep Power: 12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Hey thanks for the reply. It turned out to be the wheel bearing, and like you said I was unable to fix it my self haha. I was only 3 rusty, lock tited bolts away from getting it off, (no air tools) so I had to take it in. I did the manual hubs conversion awhile ago but my 4x4 still is broken and I rebuilt my shift motor and I don't know what it is so I'm just going to put a manual T-Case in. But let me know how your PVH tune up goes.
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#4 |
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on DUH Learning Curve
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Year: 99
Make: FoMoCo
Model: XL 2-dr ext cab "Sport", vinyl flooring, 7.5diff 3L73, PVHubs=S.O.L.
Engine: 3.0 (Flex)-->M5OD
Class: 4x4
Used For: Sugar Sand Trails
Posts: 645
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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MANUAL T-case... gets me aroused just thinking about it, lol. That's wild that Ford went back to that for just a few years on the FX4 (2001-2004, Level II???).
Now all I need is manual hubs that can be actuated from inside the cab... hmmm... I'm thinking electro-magnets... or a young Asian girl to jump out and twist them. (*rimshot*) Out there in my old stompin' grounds of Aurora-Denver-Boulder-Standley Lake, you definitely have a lot more environmental stresses on--and need for--the additional 4WD machinery. I've even heard that despite the altitude and dry snow, that some locales have taken to using the dreaded SALT in the winter. My shift motor looks quite rusty from the coastal salt-air environs I'm now in, so I may end up just buying TWO of them from my local U-pull-it yard. It's kind of ironic that the only "store-bought" manual linkage setup for the BW 1354 is a whopping $300... and IIRC that does NOT include the shifter lever and boot. Makes me wanna get crafty. OTOH, would it be so bad if the T-case lever was BEHIND the seats? Yeah, it's late, and I've had a couple o' beers. |
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#5 |
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May 2012 OTOTM Winner
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Livonia, Mi
Year: 1997
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 2.5L
Class: SFA D30 4X4
Used For: Daily driver/weekend warrior
Posts: 440
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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You could get one of the "shiftster" things they they advertise on here if you aren't worried about crawling under the truck to shift the transfercase.
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...play.php?f=134
__________________
1997 SFA Ford Ranger XLT, 2.5L, Black ext/Royal blue Int, Reg cab, Long bed, M5OD, 1354M, Jeep YJ D30 Front, 8.8 Rear, 4.10 gears, 33x10.50x15 BFG KM2's, Too much to list. |
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