Duraspark parts needed, carb questions???

Okay, have an '85 Bronco II with 2.8L. Bought a Holley 350cfm 2 barrel. Bought the electric carb conversion. Wanted to know if I need the throttle position sensor or not? I'm doing the duraspark conversion, going to go with a toggle on dash for the torque converter clutch and eliminate the factory computer completely. Does anyone have any of the duraspark components for sale, particularly the distrubutor. Call me an idiot and I might just not be looking in the right place but I can't find one.

Know enough to be dangerous!!

Hi I just did my 84 ranger did you look in the tech library here I got all my ignition parts a autozone for around $120 and have heard alot about the holly 350 being too big a carb unless you put in alot or performance stuff to handle the fuel. I have the motorcraft 2150 1.08 venturi with #50 jets and brought my engine to life need to put in the valve guide seals next. See the pile on the hood got rid of all the emission crap just had to cut a couple of wires by the coil and guages water temp oil still intact. I was able to find a harness at the bone yard for the distributor just had to splice one green wire to the coil.Kinna not good on computers so gonna try and get the linc for duraspark GL Kim

Thank you very much, I'm going to send the carb back...had heard that. Was that 120 including the distributor? were there any parts listed that you couldn't get and had to fab? I'm pretty good with stuff...just do to circumstances it is my only vehicle right now so I need to be able to do it and complete it in the same day, so I want to make sure I have everything.

I run the holley 350 cfm carb with #50 jets and have clocked 20mpg with plenty of power.Jets run about 8 bucks for a set from advance auto,easy to change.

yea that was for distributo rotor cap and ignition box i got the adaptor on ebay. I finally got a carb from a friend and put a kit in it had #46 jets but was looking mor for power and put the #50 in. the spacer on the manifold had vacuum leaks on the passenger side so I put the thick gasket in the kit between the spacer and carb and seems to be working out good. It took me a couple of days to do it and get it dialed in I started by removing all the emission harness starting at the computer pulling it out throught the firewall removing vacuum mess and all the stuff that goes with it dont cut any wires till you know where it goes as in oil pressure sending unit water temp alternater i just worked my way back and unwrapped the harness from the alteranter back to the ignition coil. my plug wires are fairly new and waiting for the plugs to final the tuneup but used the stock coil and get real good spark. You can probably do it in one day at least get it running good but do your homework first get everything together. I have my timing at 7 degrees BTDC and get a slight ping when i step on it. Im gonna work on the harness today and get all the wires taped and shielded. I run the choke switched from the ignition but you can power it from the alternator from the white wire that only gives power when the engine is running. can`t remember but only had to cut a couple of wires to remove the harness and got lucky and found the harness from the distributor at the bone yard you can do the ignition one day I put a block on the feedback solenoid on the back of the carb helped performance alot feedback metering block but you need a idle adjustment screw as the engine idle is controlled by the computer you pulled out. The only vacuum lines you need are for the advance I run a couple of them to the air system and one to the air cleaner door the egr on mine was bad so i just capped it off for now but am going to work on it later. email me any time with Qs kimcrwbr1@aol.com recently unemployed or under employed

thanks for all the info guys...b.i.g. huge help. To Skippy...Are you using the stock throttle position sensor or does that get eliminated with eliminating the computer? To Kim...When looking for the adapter..any particular name you searched under? Thanks all!

adaptor

yea had a little trouble with that to as i wanted to get it all at the same place I bought mine on ebay for cheap just punched in the part #s I foud out afterwards the adaptor for V8s is the same not for sure tho I printed the info from the tech library and found one from the pics to be sure. I got my wiring done and took it for a road trip this morning huge difference in performance and the fuel needle seems to be moving slower I also put in a 3 ported switch to advance the timing when cold it started right up and i put it in gear no stall. when it gets 130 degrees it switches back to ported and idles right down. Unless you can use the throttle sensor for the emissions some how its not necessary and you can run the advance from manifold vacuum if you dont have a ported carb. So you decided to go with the holly 350 with #50 jets let me know how that works out as I could use more power on a mountain pass. Kim

bonedoc said:

thanks for all the info guys...b.i.g. huge help. To Skippy...Are you using the stock throttle position sensor or does that get eliminated with eliminating the computer? To Kim...When looking for the adapter..any particular name you searched under? Thanks all!

Click to expand...

No tps,it's all gone.The computer is eliminated and just provides ballast,the only emmisions crap left is fuel vapor canister,cat and air pump.

Try bumping the timing up to 10* BTDC, it makes a WORLD of difference in the 2.8, as the factory timing is very conserative. I am alos running an HEI module, instead of the stupid Dspark box that likes to fail, and leave you walking. Been this way for over 2 years, and the better part of 22,000 miles with no issues.

Thanks again all! Hey mudhound would you happen to have the part number on the HEI module? I'm all for dependability!! Was it any different or more difficult to wire in? Also when I do the conversion I'm purchasing a new distributor..do I need any harnesses from the junk yard or anything? Thanks again!!

To Kim...Where does the three ported switch go and would you happen to have the part number..please excuse me on it but just curious. I live in the northeast and always warm my truck up because when cold...it loves to stall.

air pump

I have the manifold vacuum going to both the bypass and thermactor so it gets air only to the manifold is that how you have yours Skippy. I am going to put valve guide seals in then put in another cat but dont want to burn it out will adding air to exhaust manifold make it too hot for the cat

3 port

I got mine off ebay and put it where the temp sensor was for the computer on the thermostat housing not sure on the part number but it is a 128 degree three port vacuum with an electrical connector on the top and connected the center port to the dizzy so it gets manifold when cold and switches to ported when it comes up to temp that way It keeps a higher idle advanced at start and slows to normal idle when the choke fully opens. My first cold start this morning and was able to put it in gear secounds after I started it

switch #E2BE-8A564-A2A grey body blue top