AgPete139's Green Ranger Thread

Getting closer to finishing the interior:

(Temporary duct-taped pocket with cardboard. It will be replaced by a solid piece of tan plastic eventually)





I repainted the handles, and got some black tweed and covered the previous carpet and arm rests. It is slightly more comfy, it doesn't smell from the previous owner, and [/u]this side door lining does NOT have dip spit spilled all over it.[/u]


I think it came out nicely. Not bad for a first time.






Repainted black splash panel, shampoo'd carpet backpad from cigarette smoke and dip with stains, 12" Rockford Fosgate P1 single voice coil wired to cheapy Walmart 200W amp, repainted panels, & the new black carpet I installed last year. I put additional insulation behind the panel, since I already had it.

(NOTE: (4) Pioneer 6x8" speakers in doors and rear)





I still need a headliner!! It's starting to get really hot here in Texas, even with the reflective Hushmat.


Oh well, it's on the list as well to finishing up and getting a functional interior. It's been out for so long, I've forgotten what it's like.


Pete

I've had this sticker for about 2 years now. WHY AM I JUST NOW PUTTING IT ON?!

Also, note the new, removable CB antenna magnetic mount. Best possible spot on the open road. It'll be in the bed when offroad though.





The rest of my CB install, using my Dremel (audio is wired into the speakers):





ADVICE: If you want to go cheap with a CB Unit, fine. I picked up this unit new for $40 at Fry's and it works great. Get the Uniden 520XL, NOT the 510XL model (cheaper by $5-10) since it does not have the squelch or gain features. This allows for more "tune-ability." I used a Vanco brand antenna from Fry's as well. I'm going to return it as soon as I find a 4' - 5' fiberglass Wilson or Firestik.


My first call out and received communication back was from a guy in Bahamas during the evening sunset in my front driveway. That was pretty awesome.


Pete

I did clutch work earlier this week as well. Turns out the soft squishy pedal it was just air in my line, but how did it get there?

I replaced the clutch master cylinder, and I prayed that it wasn't the slave. It's an internal slave in the tranny, and that is considered 6.5 hours of book time. Most shops charge $620 for labor or $860 for the parts + labor. At that rate, I'd do it myself.

Anyways, I was getting air in, and I did a couple trick to try to get the air out. I pulled the clutch pedal away from the M/C, removed the clutch switch, and pulled the snap ring out form the M/C. I pulled the piston, and sure enough, there were bubbles there. I bled and bled and BLED SOME MORE until I was irate and entirely too pissed to do any more. I couldn't get rid of this problem. I finally just bought a new O'Reilly unit after looking at other possible choices of parts (there are no other upgrades in this regard for our Ranger setups).

I ended up bleeding it enough to drive, with a soft pedal which barely disengaged the clutch at the last second. I decided to try to "bench bleed" while on the truck.


I first removed the clutch line with 2 small flathead screwdrivers for 5-10 minutes. I couldn't find the correct tool at O'Reilly's or Autozone, and Ford didn't sell them apparently.




This was already damaged. I don't know the name of this part, but I want to buy a new one. This is what you push into the slave to disconnect it. Use a large flathead screwdriver as leverage to pull the line OUT as you are pressing IN with the 2 small screwdrivers.




CLOSEUP OF QUICK DISCONNECT:




SIDEVIEW OF BLEEDER & QUICK DISCONNECT on the SLAVE:





I removed the M/C, hung it upside down, pulled the lines straight, and tapped the lines.

NOTE: The line is removed from the slave, and the clutch master cylinder is hanging upside down (with the white piston). This allows all air to escape.



So much air bubbled, it was unreal.





It was at this time that I also replaced the clutch line O-ring at the slave cylinder quick disconnect. O'Reilly O-ring part number # 110 is what you will need.

O-RING: (O'Reilly's P/N #110 (correct) ---- used original O-ring ---- O'Reilly's P/N #111 (INCORRECT)

NOTE: I used a drop of oil to help get the o-ring and clutch line back in.




SUCCESS!

Solid pedal feel, so bubbles or loss of fluid since the M/C swap & O-ring swap.

However, the pedal is exactly how it was before. I guess that is just fine and normal, but it isn't a solid clutch pedal at the top of it's stroke. I think as I was installing the clutch line into the slave, I let a couple bubbles into the M/C again.

I will have to turn the M/C upside down again to fix this.

NOTE NOTE NOTE: Use a set of channel lock pliers on the M/C to rotate it. You will save your hand from cramping and your wrist burning. But seriously, I didn't have my tools with me at the time, which was stupid. I had to get my friend to bring my tools from his house. A simple turn and the M/C impression was a diamond shape again, not a crooked face-on square at the foot pedal assembly.

Pete

Something else to note, that has me stumped:

I had this squeaking immediately following the previous post's progress. This is a video of my Hayes HD clutch kit and my slave cylinder.

I don't know why this is happening, or what it means.

Yes, it sounds like porn. It made me laugh several times over the course of a couple days.


VIDEO -- CLICK ON PIC:






I am going to try to get a sponge paintbrush with some PB Blaster and lightly spread some of it over the area there.

It will break away the rust, coat the metal so that it doesnt rust as quickly, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY (if you read the can) PB BLSATER REJUVINATES RUBBER SEALS.

I'll try this and see what happens. I do not want to get any on my clutch pack. But even if I do, it shouldn't cause catastrophic failure. I've seen clutches go through Hell & literally high water, and it hasn't been affected. A smidge of PB Blaster won't kill it.




NOTE: Another user said to put some in the M/C reservoir, and then bleed it out of the system. This should get the seals of the slave to come back and seal again. I don't know if I trust this. Maybe I'll try this after my trip in 2 weeks and if I am constantly refilling my reservoir due to a leak in my system still.


Pete

Inspiration:

This is one of the guys from Serious Exploration on the 4Wheeler Mag website from the SMORR Trip #2.

http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/miscellaneous/on-the-trail-at-ford-invasion-iii/37013888/smorr2.jpg






.

Hey Pete, just read through your whole build. Very cool man! I especially dig the shots of all three RBVs in the driveway.

Haven't touched back with this thread.

Update:

In a nutshell, I was simply displeased with my clutch pedal feel, and I had an extra clutch reservoir cap, so I took a 1/4" barb fitting and threaded it into the top. I ran a hose from the cap to my engine manifold vacuum (with the reservoir cap installed to not suck DOT3 into my engine), and turned my engine on.







I read about this on TRS, and about other peoples' experiences with this method/similar situation.

The suction (what? ~ 15-20 lb of pressure?) sucked so well that it pulled air bubbles past the o-ring fitting at my slave cylinder. My slave cylinder was on it's way out anyways, so I bought a new unit. This is from O'Reilly's and currently sitting on my bed topper. Still haven't painted it.





While everything was apart, it was noticed that the flywheel was warped & the rear main seal was leaking. These were replaced. The HD clutch still looked great.







I worked on my finicky hubs again sometime since this summer as well. They want to stick sometimes. I don't know why this happens.

Replaced my windshield wipers with new Bosch replacements. The springs on one of the arms pulled back during this process, and hit the windshield so hard it cracked it!

Aside from this, replaced the bad battery with an old one I had laying around, and she's back to working order again.

No additional mods, just a series of constant small upgrades or replacements.

Ill throw up some pictures later and edit this post.

It’s been a while since I updated this, but I’ve been wheeling a lot and replacing a lot of stuff and doing maintenance (wheel bearings, oil filter, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, oil air filter, MAF cleaning).






This is the burnt spindle axle bearing I pulled from the passenger side.
New vs. Old




I got tired of 4WD being intermittent, moody, and fickle like a woman, so I swapped her out for a manual BW1354 that I bought off another member here.

There aren’t too many pictures rolling around of the side by side comparison of the 1354E & 1354M, and I forgot to take in progress pics while I had the carpet back. I just forget about taking pictures, which is probably why I have so many taken in parking lots.


Rubber shifter boots/pad.




Aluminum base plate (which can easily be converted to the 4WD by cutting):




Shifter boots:




Front (electric on left side, manual on right side):




Back (electric on right side, manual on left side):




Pics of shifter setup to M5OD-1 transmission:





(FROM UNDERNEATH)





Our little garage dog, Gambit (X-men), we got 6 months ago:




I don’t think I’ve ever taken a shot of my CB setup (Uniden 540XL & mic, K40 18’ coaxial cable and 4” Firestik II antenna), + custom amp near the shifter):





We’ve gone camping (car camping & backwoods) 4 times in 5 weeks, and had a recent beach run (mostly Heeps). Here’s a couple shots:











Explorer Master Cylinder swap:
It looks and feels exactly like my old stock 4.0L OHV master, and the rod is properly adjusted to the recommended specs.








I also installed stock Explorer leaf springs. There were more leaves on my unknown brand lifted springs (there is an extra leaf on the driver side pack for the driver & tank), but it was really stiff. The Explorer springs are softer, and lower ~1.0”, and the truck sits level now. I might throw a pic in later.



Also, this is my wedding ring. Check out the cake, too:

congrats on the wedding! awesome cake + ring. you two look great

Hey guys,

I haven't touched this thread in a while. I'll give a 1.5 year recap right now, post wedding.


Camping at SFA Texas State Park:











Installed a Richmond Lock Rite in my Explorer 8.8" disc. The LSD had to go, and wasn't reliable since I had worn it too many times. I have a heavy foot.
























Sadly, this is the only picture I have of my axle at the moment. I need to take more pictures this weekend.

I bought the HP D44 axle, springs, buckets, radius arms, track bar, tie rods, gear box + pitman, bushings & hardware, radius arm brackets, and brake lines for $300 off of a 1978 Ford Bronco.

I have rebuilt and painted the axle with new paint, seals, and bearings. I botched up the welding with the differential, though, and David is redoing this with an entirely new carrier. I am getting him, at his shop here in Houston, to finish what I started and don't have the time to do anymore. I am reusing my Skyjacker transmission/radius arm cross-member from my first Ranger for this, BTW.

SAS pictures will hopefully follow soon. I'm going to the shop this weekend so that we can hang and the measure the axle this Saturday.






That is seriously an unexciting and anti-climactic photo. The times I DID get the chance to work on the axle, I just didn't bother with pictures.




I'm finally deciding to go FW SAS because I am TIRED of rebuilding the front TTB D35 !! I've rebuilt it twice, and the third time, I just left it with the bad bearings and drove it to his shop. I replace the passenger spindle on rebuild #2, along with new bearings and a new rotor. Everything just goes out on it when I daily drive it and beat on it. Yes, I properly torque the spindle nuts and preload them accordingly. Yes, it has an axle needle bearing and new races in the rotor.

My wheel offset might be partially to blame, along with the narrow and shortly-spaced D35 bearings.

It's just time for it all to ****ing go.




Hidden Falls Offroad Park (multiple trips), and Texas Off Road Ranch:






















TRS Banner #2 through Texas:












Pace Bend camping and cliff jumping (~ 4 stories high, 40-ish feet):

Oh, and here's one more picture of DoorGunner. Waaahoooooooooo!!!!!!!! /passes some meds

Here are pictures from one of the Hidden Falls trips, with my awesome wife again.

For those curious, that's a Swiss military truck, a Pinzgauer 6x6. Sweet ride.

Oh, I cut away aw the front of the frame rails, cut some 4" x 2" x (frame width)" C-channel steel and welded that in for front strength + rigidity and for a front bumper build.

Jacking points and a winch will be included in the design.

1.5" tubing will be used. No pictures. Again, sorry.

Sweet!! I didn't know there was trees in TX. I've got family in Roxton and Ben franklin. I might have to check some of the parks out next time I'm there.

Nice ranger. I like the color.

Kevery said:

Sweet!! I didn't know there was trees in TX. I've got family in Roxton and Ben franklin. I might have to check some of the parks out next time I'm there.

Nice ranger. I like the color.

Click to expand...

Thanks! There's plenty of trees and forests/wooded areas in Texas. Over there in Roxton & Ben Franklin, it starts getting closer to the Ozarks. Pretty small towns up there. Hit me up next time you're down here.