oil pan removal/modification 98 tbar

So I tackled the oil pan on my 98 ranger. I have about 14 hours into it due to snapping the torsion adjuster bolt. Anyway anyone who has done this knows that you need to lift motor, drop your axle and unhinge the lower control arm in order to get the pan off. So getting to my question.

In my oil pan there is a divider that lets the oil pump sit under. Im guessing so that oil cannot splash around. I have never seen a oil pan like this. I am thinking about cutting all the internal metal away so that I can twist the pan and clear the oil pickup if I had to do it again. Has anyone done this or know why there is a divider in our pan.

Another question.
I am going to put new rod bearings on it. Is there anything else i should do while I have it apart. Has anyones oil pump crap out on them. If so how many miles. Am I able to change out the crank bearings? Any suggestions that would make life easier?

If anyone is thinking of doing this it is all fresh in my head. Feel free to ask any questions because I couldnt find any threads on this subject.

thanks guys

The baffles are there to keep the oil pickup submerge in oil during hard cornering, hard braking, steep hill ascending/decending, etc. I would not remove the baffles. Doing so may cause oil pressure to drop to "0" during hard driving, etc.

Yes the main bearings can be changed without removing the crankshaft....not easily but it can be done. You'll need to roll the upper main bearing out without doing any damage to the journal or the saddle. Don't forget the bearing is keyed...roll the keyed end "out" not "in". Any reason for changing the rod bearings? How many miles on the engine? Personally I would just inspect a couple main and a couple rod bearings....If they are in good shape and not into the copper, I would leave them alone.

Dave

Well i actually minorly vapor locked it. After I got it home opened spark holes and cleaned it out. I started it back up and it has a rod knock. it only has about 90k on the truck.
Can you clarify a little more about the main bearing. Can I change this while in the truck.
I was hoping to change out the rod bearings. Start it up and see if it was still rappin. I just dont want to have to go through it again in 2 months.

Yes, you can change the main bearings while the crankshaft is in the truck.

First, drink lots of beer or liquor, you'll need it. Then remove the two middle main bearing caps. Loosen the first and last cap maybe a couple turns on each bolt. Pry the crankshaft down a little so that there is a little clearance between the upper bearing insert and the crankshaft journal. The end bearing caps are there to support the crankshaft but loosened enough to allow the crankshaft to drop a little.

I have never messed with the rear main seal on a 3.0L but I assume it is a one piece seal. Treat the seal with love and tenderness since you can't repalce it without pulling the transmission and flywheel/flexplate. If it is a two piece, you can change it also if you would like (probably a good idea since two piece seals are known for leaking).

Take a medium sized cotter pin and squeeze the head of it closed so that it is flat. Bend the tail ends of the cotterpin out so that the cotter pin looks like a "T". Actually you will need a crooked "T"....one bend will be more than 90 deg. and the other bend will be less than 90 deg.

Slip the head of the cotter pin into the oil gallery of one of the crankshaft main journals. The gallery is not 90 deg. to the journal; it's on an angle which is why you did not bend the cotter pin into a perfectly square "T". Understand? Slowly rotate the crankshaft while the modified cotter pin is in the oil gallery and it will push the upper bearing insert out of the saddle and around with the crankshaft. The cotter pin needs to be as big as possible but small enough that the tail ends will fit between the crankshaft and the saddle.

Do the middle bearings and then switch....allow the middle bearings to support the crankshaft while you replace the first and last bearing.

It's not a quick or easy job but it can be done. Don't forget all the bearing caps (rod and main) are numbered and there is a front. Main bearing caps have an arrow which points forward and the rod caps are numbered (match up the numbers.)

The bearings have a notch or key on them. Look where it is and rotate the crankshaft in the direction that will allow the notch to come out first. Rotating it the other way may allow the notch to wedge between the crankshaft journal and saddle. If you don't know what I'm talking about, take you time and look things over....you'll see the knotches. It's very important that the notches are in the groove when you put it back together. If they aren't, the crankshaft will seize and/or you'll spin a bearing.

The new upper bearing halves should slip in....you shouldn't need the cotter pin. Push the insert into the saddle as best you can. If it's a pain to get seated, the lower bearing/cap will seat it once you get it installed. Be sure to use assembly lube on the new bearings.

Thats all I can think of at the moment. If something else comes to me, I'll post it.

Dave

I've changed rod,and main bearings w/engine still in vehicle using a roofing nail in place of the cotter pin as Dave has described.

that baffle also keeps oil from completely submerging the bearings.