ac pully

[Ranger#1]

ok well all the stuff in the dash says the ac is on but the pully is not engaging its a 1990 ranger w/ 4.0 4x4 alo what type of refrigrant is in it

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

its r-12. you can get the adapters to convert it to r134 from wally world for $10.

 

[Ranger#1]

so what about the pully situation

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

most likely you are low on refridgerent. youll have to have it recharged and find the leak.

 

[Ranger#1]

i shold re fill it with r134 [retrofit] and then check for a leak where also is there a way to test to make sure there is power goint to the pully how do i test that

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i would refill it with r134. r12 is way to expensive to "play with" while finding a leak.

to make sure everything works electrically, check all your fuses. if the a/c light comes on in the cab, then its probably ready to go. theres a chance that one of your pressure switches have failed, but i would give them the benifit of the doubt since therse dont fail often.

 

[Earl43P]

To test your compressor clutch (assuming it is low on refrigerant) find the accumulator/receiver/dryer. Looks like an aluminum cannister on the Passenger side near the firewall/fender.

Find and disconnect the pressure switch mounted on that cannister (there should also be a low presssure fitting right there). Straighten a paper clip and use it to jumper the two pins in that connector you removed. Don't let it touch any metal, tape it if you have to.

Turn the key to Run (no need to start it unless you want to see the clutch spin the compressor) and turn the AC On and Off. The clutch should respond.

If it has been low on refrigerant a long time, you may should vaccuum the system down and make sure it doesn't leak, before spending the $$ on a conversion kit for R-134a. Many leaks are visible because the leaking refrigerant carries oil with it and that attracts dirt. If the clutch pulley has been spraying oil, the compressor shaft seal is shot (most frequent leak point, btw). Also look at each attachment fitting.

 

[Ranger#1]

thankyou that was what i was lookin for um could u post som kits people have used in the past to convert to r134 also the comp looks clean no oil

 

[MAKG]

Read the sticky at the top of the forum.

I *STRONGLY* recommend against buying a $30 kit from Wal Mart. It will last a few months, if it ever works.

You can buy the adapters for around $5 apiece, but it takes quite a bit more than that for it to actually work.

If you don't have evacuation and flushing equipment at home, you may not save much by doing the retrofit yourself. In fact, if you screw it up, you will lose quite a bit over what a shop costs. And do you have the expertise to condemn a compressor? Miss that, and whatever work you do (including new parts) will be wasted.

And you need a REPAIR. A retrofit might be reasonable as well, but the problem at hand is that something needs fixing. Even if it's "only" a leak. It is impossible to make a good installation that leaks. You WILL get water vapor in it.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

theres nothing wrong with the $10 (not $30) kit from wal-mart. it just consists of 2 adaptors that screw onto the r12 service ports. even if they do start to leak, you can just take them off after filling the system and throw them in a drawer

but i agree you should have a shop do the work. the system should be properly evacuated, vacuumed to remove moisture, and refilled to the proper level.

 

[Ranger#1]

ok so i need nu orings [for the pressure] so on so on atleast i dont need a nu compresser i want to do this the right way i wouldent trust the kit from wal mart just cause its 30$ but if thers no big change like chemicaly between r 12 and r134 i would consider it

 

[MAKG]

There is no big change chemically from R-12 to R-134a. There are significant thermodynamic changes, as the neither the specific heat nor the latent heat of vaporization is the same. R-134a will generate much higher head pressures.

However, there IS a big change in the oil. Mineral oil and PAG oil don't like each other.

 

[Earl43P]

Fix the leak before you spend any money trying to retrofit.

 

[Ranger#1]

Fix the leak before you spend any money trying to retrofit.

true ok so its just low on pressure cause i bypased the pressure swich and it worked yeaaaa now im gonna have it vacume tested for a leak any useal problem spots iv looked for oil deposits but no luck how ever the caps were missin so maby sombody fed with it but ill see about that with a vac test thx guys.

 

[tbirdsps]

true ok so its just low on pressure cause i bypased the pressure swich and it worked yeaaaa now im gonna have it vacume tested for a leak any useal problem spots iv looked for oil deposits but no luck how ever the caps were missin so maby sombody fed with it but ill see about that with a vac test thx guys.

You've done half. When you short the switch does the a/c blow cold? If it does the switch is bad. $15 at napa. Screw it off the receiver/dryer and screw on the new one and you're fixed.

If it doesn't blow cold then you are probably low on coolant.