View Full Version : 302 in a b2
01-27-2008, 07:35 PM
i am undergoing a 302 swap.i fabed my mounts and raised the motor slightly,installed low preasure fuel pump,installed oil filter relocator.for ignition wired that up,i first tried the duraspark out of a 85 f-150 this is my donor.the wiring was all hacked.got it put back together and just had three wires to hook up into the truck.there were two red wires and one white.the two reds i was told by a local mechanic needed to be hot wires when the ignition was in the run position.and the white was to be hooked to the solenoid, so there would be a pulse sent to the distributor.hooked him up and nothing.got frustraited and my dad told me to get a points one they are much easier.so got that bad boy.hooked him up with the one wire on the positive side of the coil.nothing.then another guy told me that it is supposed to be hooked on the negative side of the coil.does this make a difference?cause both sides of the coil are hot with only one hot wire hooked into it.is this how its supposed to be?runnin out of ideas and getting frustraited with it.any help or insite is much apreciated and valued.
01-27-2008, 09:20 PM
hope this helps.
-Distributer wire goes to the negative side of coil
-Off the Ignition switch, run a wire to the positive side of coil.
Crank the engine with the dist cap off, make sure the points are breaking and sparking.
Test to see if your getting spark off the number 1 sparkplug wire.
Send me a PM if you get stuck or have anymore questions. I just completed the 302 swap and wired it all myself.
01-28-2008, 07:37 PM
ok so i put a new set of points and condenser in at and double checked the wires.WE GOT SPARK!!!!!sweet going try firing it tomarrow.did you use a cable shifter and what tranny?im using full size.did you buy a set of headers or use manifolds?fireing order and how to set im used to gm.it just seems every time i have the piston up the rotor points to the 1 spot on the cap, but the timing tab on the crank doesnt line up.my dampiner only has a solid line going across.any ideas?
01-28-2008, 08:14 PM
trash the points....petronix and accel make point eliminator kits that are a brezze to put in and set up.i used accel........
take #1 spark plug out ,bump the engine over till it blows out.......line up your dampner mark with your pointer with a socket on the dampner(balancer) and set your rotor to #1.that should get you close enough to crank it.......you can tweak it after it starts with a timing light.
i used a B&M mega shifter on my c-4........makes it alot easier.
used mustang shortys...had to modify front header tube to clear steering box......there are some stock manifolds that work and are listed in the tech section.
shifter setup with the B&M
01-31-2008, 07:03 PM
SHES A LIVE!!!double checked the timing and i barely seen some lines on the dampener.wow surprised i seen em.but ya shes just fired right up almost idled.adjusted the timing by ear and she runs beautiful.so for the tranny got a quick question.how do i know if i have a c6 or a c4?its out of a 85 f-150.and what size axles do you recomend?it will have a larger tire on it.just i dont know how the power ratio is.i had a 89 ranger that i put a 4.0 and that thing would just light up 35's and squak my 38 boggers.but does a 302 have more power than a 4.0?i was told the 4.0 had more torque and about the same horse?i was debating on going fullsize again but i wanna drive it down the road every day.so then i was leaning towards jeep front and seeing how long the rear lasted and then putting in a 8.8.
01-31-2008, 07:06 PM
what year mustang and how did you modify it?what would you recomend for axles?i want a big tire and i was either gonna go with a jeep front end and the ranger rear till she goes then put in a 8.8.how do you identify a c6 over a c4?
01-31-2008, 07:06 PM
As far as the tranny goes, you may have a c5, but id say more than likely it is not a C6. C4 is possible, maybe an AOD, but i believe the 85 will have a C5.
01-31-2008, 07:34 PM
the headers are off a older cobra mustang........find them on ebay for about 35 bucks + shipping......i tack welded the flange to a steel table and cut the front tube loose at the flange and about 3 inches from the collector........went to a muffler shop and had them bend some s shaped tube the same size...cut the s in the bend to make it turn down quicker then match the collector end and tig welded it back up.....misses the steering box by a little over a 1/4 inch.
you probably have a c-4....thats what iam running.........had it beefed by a tranny guy i know.........dont ask what he put in it....i dont even know ...lol he said it should hold up pretty good for my current set up.
i have an 8.8 and a 28 up front but iam looking for a set of 60's.
just got the motor running this fall,ran out of time to work on it because my shop is the great outdoors so itll be spring befor i start on it again.
hope this helps
01-31-2008, 08:53 PM
85 F150 will have most likely been an AOD. Look at the trans pan, the AOD has "Metric" stamped into the bottom. C-4/5 pan is square, transmission has a removeable bell. C-6 pan is notched at the right rear corner, bell housing is cast integrally with the main case..
02-03-2008, 08:36 PM
well the pan is square but it doesnt have a removable bell housing.it isnt an aod.someday ill know.it does have the number 25 cast into the bell housing.
02-06-2008, 06:36 AM
I'm thinking its an AOD, my AOD has the '25' cast into the top of the bell houseing as well.
The AOD pan is rectangular and the rear corners of are chamfered in a little bit. Every AOD i have come accross has METRIC stamped in the pan, who knows, perhaps someone put an aftermarket pan on.
02-06-2008, 06:26 PM
im thinking its a c6.the pan isnt square or rectangle its a different shape.has the bellhousing cast into the tranny.it doesnt have od.
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