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Shift rail plugs, revisited


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A while back after swapping a 89 Bronco II from an automatic to a manual, the problem of the shift rail plugs came to our attention when having to add fluid to the transmission every other week. After consulting the tech library, we decided to try the metal plug option since new rubber plugs could not be found. We acwuired new plugs, removed the transmission, and to our surprise, the plugs were too small. Looking at the situation, i quickly gathered that the wholes might be tapped with a pipe tap, and then a pipe plug installed to remedy our situation.

Using a 3/8-ths pipe tap (nearest recollection), coat the tap with axle grease in the flutes to catch as much of the shavings as possible, and on as straight an possible (some angle is required due to case interference) slowly turn the tap with a wrench a quater turn at a time allowing the metal to rest every couple of turns so as not to split the case. When a comfortable depth has been acquired (going too deep could split the case as well, only go about a 1/2 inch, as deep as the plug is tall), Put some thread tape on the threads of the 3/8-ths pipe plug and slowly turn it into the newly taped hole. The end result, if done properly should look something like this:


***This worked for us, if you attempt, you take the risk into your own hands. We are not liable for any issues that arise in you doing this. This is not a step by step how to, it is merely a suggestion and how we went about fixing the problem.***
 
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Insanejughead

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I've tapped lots of holes in aluminum, steel, brass, and even wood... How do I run the risk of splitting my case?

Oh, and chips from the tap wouldn't be much of a problem if you were to remove the tranny and flush it out after you're done. Though time consuming, it would be safe. Also, could you just remove the top cover and keep a rag below the holes to catch whatever might fall through?

I need to fix my plugs as well. I have noises coming from my tranny that I doubt is anything else other than loss of fluid related.
 
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I only added the part about splitting the case because of the people who had bashed us in the old forum for having done so. It does seem feasible however, that if you were to go very deep with the plug, the tapered pipe tape could increase pressure on the aluminum case and cause it to crack. We had no problems, but its just something that could happen. With greasing the tap, and not going all the way through the hole, the likelihood of metal particulate finding its way inside the case is small, however still possible. Draining the trans and refilling with fluid could never hurt, we didnt opt for it and have had no noticeable problems. As far as removing the top cover, again i couldnt tell you for sure, we didnt do it.
 
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Ranger44

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That's cool. I just did the metal freeze plugs. They're weird. I went to O'reilly's and asked for a freeze plug (3/8 ?) and it was to small. Then went to Napa and their 3/8 fit. But this seems like a more solid repair, and the fact that you can easily remove them is better. Good job!
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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is this the M50DR-1 were talking about here? i pulled mine multiple times and mine has freeze plugs in it already but i cant see any dorman #s on them. what was put in these from the factory, plastic,rubber, or steel?
 

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yup, rubber. i took mine out and cleaned everything with brake parts cleaner, then siliconed them back in. its only been a week or 2 but its not leaking...
 

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I did that with mine. I also tapped the side for a barbed fitting for a vent.

The rubber plugs are the trans vents second. First they serve as access holes to install the shift rails.

Once you plug these holes the seal at the shifter will go and still leak fluid all over.
 
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I took that picture about 3 years or so AFTER having installed the plugs, and no leaks where found at the time we removed it. Maybe we got lucky, or maybe we have a vent through the shifter hole.....who knows.
 

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I did that with mine. I also tapped the side for a barbed fitting for a vent.

The rubber plugs are the trans vents second. First they serve as access holes to install the shift rails.

Once you plug these holes the seal at the shifter will go and still leak fluid all over.
ha, i just replaced that boot too. where exactly did you put your vent? i suppose i should do something about that now...
 

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Those rubber plugs are not a vent. They are there to create a tight seal. And the only reason for oil to leak out of your shifter is if your seals/bushings are shot. Would you drill out the side of your dishwasher and put a vent in it? No. The oil inside the transmission agitates around prettymuch the same way. Think about it, if you go out and pay $2000 for a jasper reman you'd espect something that is done right. Well, jasper uses the steel cup plugs in their remans and they hold fluid just fine.
 

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Those rubber plugs are not a vent.
I'd have to agree. If they're supposed to be vents then they would leak all sorts of transmission fluid all the time. If they're "sealed" then they don't leak oil (not leaking oil is the goal here right?), if they're "sealed but still open to the air and still vent" then whats the point of sealing them to stop them from leaking? there'd still be a gap/opening in them and they'd still leak.
 

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shift rail plugs

I have gotten the rubber rail plugs from the dealer. The parts guy was very confused, but I was persistant and he finally found them in the parts fiche. I wanted the rubber ones because they were alot easier to install without removing or lowering the transmission. If anyone wants the Ford part number just let me know.
 

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I have gotten the rubber rail plugs from the dealer. The parts guy was very confused, but I was persistant and he finally found them in the parts fiche. I wanted the rubber ones because they were alot easier to install without removing or lowering the transmission. If anyone wants the Ford part number just let me know.
What are they?
 

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Those rubber plugs are not a vent. They are there to create a tight seal. And the only reason for oil to leak out of your shifter is if your seals/bushings are shot. Would you drill out the side of your dishwasher and put a vent in it? No. The oil inside the transmission agitates around prettymuch the same way. Think about it, if you go out and pay $2000 for a jasper reman you'd espect something that is done right. Well, jasper uses the steel cup plugs in their remans and they hold fluid just fine.
I guess you can cap off your diff vents and your valve cover breather and your t-case vent then. As they are suposed to be a tight seal to not let oil escape or the gasses produced by the heated oil. :stirthepot:

I guess that's the difference between paying $2000 and having to go back for another rebuild 4 years later as the trans crapped out, and is now covered in oil. Vs. Doing it yourself and having a clean worry free trans for 10+ years.

I bet you run ATF in your trans too like the book says. I run 0W30 in mine.

Good luck with your Jasper rebuild.
 

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