Axles


cam123456773

10+ Year Member

Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
4
Points
3,001
Age
36
City
Arkansas
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Do they make lockers for the 88' B2 rear axle...Also, I've heard the dana 28 front is junk, but I know they make a locker for it..so is it better to lock the front or the back, if I only want one.
 
lock the back, leave the front open...and wouldnt suggest anything bigger then 33's on that d28 open diff.....
 
Yes, 7.5" rear

I would do the D35 swap first if you want to lock the front. The D28 has really tiny shafts, they won't stand up well to a locker at all.
 
Swap them both at the same time. 7.5 is OK... Just. If you are going to lock one, lock the back. The 28 will live if you are very gentle with it. Not if it is locked though. The 35 should be a bolt in swap and you should be able to pick one up for almost nothing if you look around. Look for spares while you are at it. You'll need them! LOL!
 
Ok I'm new to four wheel drives and shit, help me out with this...The d28 is not a solid front axle, correct? Im assuming the 35' is though, since you guys say to swap for it...Changing axles is not something I have time for right now, but I heard a locker is like a 2-3 hour job, how would you guys rate it on the difficulty scale..




oh yeah and mine just hit 300,000 miles, and the engine (or something), has started this annoying ass ticking..I read somewhere that its common in the 2.9, the lifters or something...You guys know anything about that.
 
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No, the d35 is not a solid axle. Yes they make a lock-right for the 7.5.
 
cam123456773 said:
Ok I'm new to four wheel drives and shit, help me out with this...The d28 is not a solid front axle, correct? Im assuming the 35' is though, since you guys say to swap for it...Changing axles is not something I have time for right now, but I heard a locker is like a 2-3 hour job, how would you guys rate it on the difficulty scale..
Click to expand...
Both the D28 and D35 are TTB axles (Twin-Traction-Beam).
Everything in the D35 is simply bigger (much of it is the same stuff used in ½ton fullsize truck D44s).

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4wd_Front_Axles.html
Axles


If you don't want to mess with swapping the axle (also about a 2-3 hour job), I STRONGLY suggest not locking the differential on the 28.
 
And dont forget the d35 is a direct swap except for the driveshaft!
 
So all these axles are TTB.. Is that a fancy way of saying IFS? Whats the difference between the two? Is it a good idea to suspension lift a TTB, or does it break like IFS?
 
all forms of IFS if lifted properly will hold ot a certain degree...unfortunaly they ahvent quite come up with ways to amke IFS as reliable as a old solid axle, id just throw in the d35, and leave it open, on 33's with a open diff ull never break it, just my .02
 
TTB is technically IFS, but I disagree, it's just as sturdy and reliable as a solid axle (unlike conventional A-arm IFS). Basically all a TTB is is just a solid axle that's been made into two sections.
What you may come across though is some of the poorly engineered TTB suspension lift kits out there, which tends to create some problems with the wheel alignment on them.
The big secret is to make sure your steering linkage is dead-level. If your drop pitman arm is too short (or lift too tall), the linkage will be up at an angle, which causes the toe to change with suspension cycling, affecting the handling and increasing tire wear.

There is a ton of info about the D35 (and swapping out a D28) and TTB suspension if you do a bit of reading around the forum here (don't forget about the Tech Library too). You can upgrade the locking hubs and u-joints on the D35, and have an axle that's probably stronger than the stock D44 found under a F-150 or fullsize Bronco. It'll handle 35" tires no problem (37s if you play nice).
 
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