One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap. [Archive]

Jbrown1238

10-18-2010, 09:09 AM

I thought I better get started on my 98 V8 Ranger thread before time started to slip away and some of the early details are lost. I sold my 2003 Mustang Cobra in September 2010 to help support this 98 Ranger project.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/Cobra.jpg

I sure will miss that 03. Best all around vehicle I ever owned. But the time has come for another truck and a V8 Ranger will help fill the void.

A week or so after selling the Cobra I found a 98 4cly XLT in Orlando Florida that had all the items I was looking for in a starting platform. These items included a step side bed, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, factory chrome wheels, and a fairly clean interior. The interior was a little more important to me than the exterior as the truck will be disassembled and painted once the V8 is installed and the initial bugs worked out.

Note to self: Disassemble the front clip and paint the engine compartment, fender rails, core support, etc. prior to engine install.

Here are a few photos of what I will be starting with.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/bd7e584c5cea31d129a7_1.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/cid_631.jpg

The interior needed a good cleaning but it was complete and in fairly good condition. The dash and door panels along with the trim pieces will be dyed when the truck is painted and the carpet will be replaced.

While I am collecting parts for the V8 swap I will also be working on a few areas that need immediate attention.

1. Clean the seats! They look like 12 years of neglect.
2. The left rear quarter panel needs to be replaced.
3. The front bumper needs to be replaced.
4. The front suspension needs to be completely rebuilt.

Step one. Clean the seats!

I disassembled the seats and removed the seat covers.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07596.jpg

I then sent them through the washing machine one at a time for two cycles each with my detergent of choice, Tide! Here are a few photos of the clean passenger seat next to the driver seat before it was washed.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07605.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07604.jpg

I followed up by doing the same with the driver seat.

What an improvement. Now the inside of the truck feels clean and certainly smells fresh.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC09991.jpg

Step two. Replace left rear quarter panel.

I purchased a new quarter panel from e-bay and test fit it on the vehicle before painting it. At this point I am not sure if I will dust it real quick in the factory black or just leave it white for now. The truck is going to get a color change in a few short months.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07709.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07818.jpg

A few days ago I picked up a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 V8 with all accessory brackets, wiring, computer, air box, etc. from a salvage yard in Tampa.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07621.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07624.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07693.jpg

I got the engine home and started disassembling it. Preparing the pieces that will be going out for porting, as well as categorizing other pieces for cleaning/stripping and paint. The short block looks like it is in very good condition for a 100,000 plus mile motor. I will be selling that unit and purchasing a new LRS economy short block as a starting foundation for the build. Nothing fancy or extremely exotic, just a nice reliable street motor with a few aftermarket pieces for some added performance.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07807.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07816.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07814.jpg

Jbrown1238

10-18-2010, 04:04 PM

Step three. Replace front bumper.

Another e-bay find, a new front bumper for $50.00. When the truck is painted in May 2011, the bumpers and front grill will be body color. I am still trying to decide on the exact color. I am thinking about a dark blue metallic, maybe 2002 Ford True Blue code L2.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07825.jpg

Step four. Rebuild front suspension.

All the suspension pieces have been purchased and laid out on the ground to verify there are no packing errors. I will also be installing new front brakes at the same time. The rear brakes are in fair shape and should survive until after April 2011 when a new 8.8 rear end will be installed. The front suspension is scheduled to be completed on Wednesday and Thursday of this week.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07831.jpg

Colin

10-18-2010, 05:09 PM

Nice build you've got going, can you pm me how you took apart the seats? I should really do this to my truck. :D

Mac

10-18-2010, 05:18 PM

Welcome! That is one really good clean motor inside, how many miles on it? Keep us posted on progress and what overall goal is?
Dave

TOPDOG2007

10-18-2010, 06:18 PM

Nice Build so far! Keep us posted with pics!

Jbrown1238

10-18-2010, 09:08 PM

Nice build you've got going, can you pm me how you took apart the seats? I should really do this to my truck. :D

PM sent.

Jbrown1238

10-18-2010, 09:11 PM

Welcome! That is one really good clean motor inside, how many miles on it? Keep us posted on progress and what overall goal is?
Dave

It has a little over 100,000 miles. I picked it up from a salvage yard but plan on selling the shortblock over the next month or two. I hope to get $150.00- $200.00 from someone local.

Jbrown1238

10-18-2010, 09:11 PM

Nice Build so far! Keep us posted with pics!

Thanks, will do.

Jbrown1238

10-21-2010, 04:51 PM

Today I finished the front suspension and front brakes. I spent about two days working on it and taking my time and trying not to rush. I admit I had a little rest break every few hours so the job didn’t seem too bad.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07849.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07867.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07869.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07872.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07868.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07882.jpg

I need to schedule an appointment to have the alignment done and I should be good for a few years. The new front end should make for a strong base for the 5.0 Explorer motor a few short months away. Now that the immediate necessary projects are out of the way I can focus on the engine build and upcoming swap. I am still trying to decide if I want to cut in that left rear quarter or just leave it white for now.

Jbrown1238

11-14-2010, 08:25 AM

The last few weeks things have slowed down a bit. I am still collecting parts for the 5.0 build but also planning for the holidays and spending a lot of time at work. Between now and the first of the year the progress will seem nonexistent. Things should pick up pace after that. I did manage to lower the truck 3 inches in the back and two inches up front. I also decided to wait on painting the new left quarter panel until the truck gets a color change in April/May of 2011. For now the damaged rear quarter was reinstalled so the truck is at least all one color while being driven. Here are a couple before and after photos of the drop.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07818.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC0791712.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC0793412.jpg

Jbrown1238

11-14-2010, 08:31 AM

Double tap.

gsp

11-14-2010, 11:40 AM

Very Nice

Jbrown1238

11-24-2010, 02:27 PM

Although I was trying to wait until after the holidays I decided to go ahead and get the heads ready to go out for port work and a rebuild. After discussing my options with my son he recommended a local shop in Tarpon Springs that did a set of E7’s for his Ranger a while back. A few days ago the two of us disassembled the GT40P’s we will be using on the LRS Economy short block that will be coming early next year for the 98 Ranger.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07937.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07949.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07976.jpg

After removing the rockers and the valves we did a quick inspection to make sure everything checked out as far as we could tell. The valves and the heads both looked good and should do fine once they are reworked. We will be adding a high performance spring kit from Trick Flow and valve stem seals from Ford Racing.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC08010.jpg

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Jbrown1238

07-07-2011, 05:17 AM

After about 9 months of very little visual progress I thought I would try and bring my thread up to date. In January 2011 I left the company I had worked with for 24 years. That brought the Ranger engine swap to a screeching stop while I tried to replace my lost livelihood. After returning to the workforce I did manage to get a couple of the behind the scenes items crossed of the “To Do List”.

After I prepared the heads to go to the porter I media blasted the upper and lower intake with walnut shells and boxed both pieces up with the heads.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00233.jpg

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http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00259.jpg

I picked up the finished heads as well as the upper and lower intake. The heads received the following work.

1. Trim and knock down the valve guide bumps in both intake and exhaust bowls
2. Back-cut the intake valves for better flow
3. Widen the push rod pinches to gasket-match the intake ports
4. Rough edge cleanup on the bowl / Bowl Blending
5. Increase & smooth the short side radius in the intake port
6. Raise/lower the intake port floor
7. Gasket match the intake ports
8. 3 angle valve job
9. Surfaced

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00426.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00428.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00397.jpg

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The upper was gasket match ported and the lower was completely ported the entire length of the runners as well as gasket matched on both ends.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00452.jpg

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I purchased a complete 8.8 Ranger rear end from my son. Since the time the photos were taken I have removed the drum brakes as a rear disc set up will be used. I had a 31 spline 8.8 Traction Lok diff with a set of 3:55 gears left over from my 03 Cobra. The 31 spline axles will be custom pieces from Moser when the time comes.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00190.jpg

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http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00206.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00202.jpg

I also purchased a new King Cobra Clutch kit, bellhousing, a new flywheel, and a set of used Torque Monster Headers from eBay.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00215.jpg

I wanted to add approximately 24 inches of wire between the 42 pin connector and the PCM. I didn’t like the idea of stretching the engine harness and having the large connector sitting out in plain view. I thought with some additional length the connector could be hidden from view. I cut and tagged some donor wire and built a small jig to hold the 42 pin connector and the section of harness to be modified.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00167.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00180.jpg

Once everything was secured in place I started in the lower left corner of the 42 pin connector. Working left to right I cut and added wire one pin at a time carefully soldering and heat shrinking each connection.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00177.jpg

I removed the front and rear bumpers and blocked and primed them preparing for paint. I sprayed both black to match the truck. After careful consideration I decided not to do a color change as originally planned. At some point in the future the entire truck will be sprayed in its original Black code UA.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00284.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00298.jpg

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http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00311.jpg

Colin

07-07-2011, 11:16 AM

damn that looks nice

TOPDOG2007

07-09-2011, 08:54 PM

Sweeet progress!

Jbrown1238

10-09-2011, 07:09 PM

Originally I was planning on using a LRS 5.0 Economy short block for this 98 Ranger project. After further consideration I was unsure about the possibility of receiving a unit that could have a 60 overbore as well as a sleeved cylinder. Both are noted as possibilities under the description of the remanufacturing process. I still have the 2001 Explorer short block and decided to check with local shops regarding cleaning and machine work. I found one with a good reputation and reasonable pricing. They agreed to measure the block, crank, and connecting rods at no charge.

This weekend my son was visiting home from Gainesville and the two of us disassembled the Explorer short block preparing it to be dropped at the machine shop for inspection. If everything checks out it will probably end up being the foundation for the 98 Ranger. This 100,000 mile engine is very clean inside and the pistons wiped clear with brake cleaner, a shop cloth, and very minimal effort.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00634.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00666.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00672-1.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00686.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00701.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00753.jpg

I have included a few close up photos of the internals. I am no expert so any comments/opinions from other members on the general condition would be appreciated.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00748.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00745.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00721.jpg

RangerSVT

10-09-2011, 08:12 PM

Looks good for a 100K motor...How much did the complete assembly run you from the junkyard??
SVT

Jbrown1238

10-09-2011, 08:26 PM

Looks good for a 100K motor...How much did the complete assembly run you from the junkyard??
SVT

I paid $800.00 for everything a year ago. Complete engine, harness, fan, accessory brackets, airbox & mass air, ECM, etc. I found it the day it came in so it didn't sit long. The junk yard moved it up the line in order for disassembly and I picked the engine up the following day. It was a very clean 01 Mountaineer hit hard in the passenger side (I know I have been calling it an Explorer). I felt good about the condition on my first visit to the yard. The vehicle was clean inside and out with obvious signs of coming from a good home.

RangerSVT

10-10-2011, 05:00 AM

Jbrown1238

10-10-2011, 05:14 AM

Can't complain on that. I'm on the hunt for a 99-01 so I can V8 my sport trac. Plans are to grab a 4406 so I can have factory 4x4....Sorry to thread jack a little, keep up the great work and keep them pics coming. Hope you can keep progress rolling :icon_thumby:
SVT

Thank you. At first I thought $800.00 might be a lot for a 100,000 mile junk yard motor. But then I remembered the money was really going towards everything else. The intake and heads, acc. brackets, oil pan, harness, etc. With all things considered I felt it was fair.

Jbrown1238

10-10-2011, 05:38 PM

I managed to get the ported upper and lower painted and mocked up earlier today. I also installed new freeze plugs. I can’t wait to see this thing sitting on top of a 5.0 inside my engine compartment.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00763.jpg

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Colin

10-10-2011, 06:19 PM

purdy

Jbrown1238

11-01-2011, 05:06 PM

I had the block and crank checked at the machine shop today. The block has the standard bore and the crank has standard size rod and mains. Looks like I will be going with a 30 overbore for the block to clean up the cylinders. The crank does not need to be turned but will need to be polished. The news was pretty much what I had hoped for with no real surprises.

JFortner5

11-01-2011, 07:24 PM

Jbrown1238

11-01-2011, 08:41 PM

I just found this thread. It looks like you are meticulous and take the time to do things right. Your truck is an inspiration for me. I've got a 99 3.0L regular cab and I hope to start collecting parts soon. Can't wait to see more progress.

Joey

Thank you. I only wish I could move along a bit quicker. I have collected most of the parts but do still need to complete the short block. The good thing is that a slow pace because of funding allows a little more time for attention to detail.

Jbrown1238

01-02-2012, 02:09 PM

A while back I media blasted my accessory brackets, timing cover, and bell housing and got paint on each of them. I am finally catching up from the holidays and had a chance today to take some photos and update the thread.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00988.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00995.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00998.jpg

I also test fitted the clutch slave cylinder bracket that my son made. No surprises with the fit as he had it mounted on his Ranger project a while back. I am still waiting on the mounting hardware.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01071.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01067.jpg

I unwrapped the new World Class Tremec T5 I bought over a year ago just to check and make sure it wasn’t collecting moisture or debris sitting in the barn.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00967.jpg

Not sure what I am going to do with the finish on the used Torque Monster Headers I have. I may check into having them coated or just take the easy way out and leave them as is.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00977.jpg

I picked up a few new parts over the holidays thanks to the wife. Ford Racing Oil Pump, Ford Racing Lifters, Ford Racing 5.0 Freeze Plug and Dowel kit, along with an ARP Oil Pan Bolt kit. The ARP Intake Bolt kit was a gift from my son last year.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01039.jpg

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I also picked up some used but rebuilt 24 Lbs Fuel Injectors.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01034.jpg

I got the 01 Explorer oil pan and valve covers cleaned and stored away until I have a chance to media blast and refinish them.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01073.jpg

I pressed out the wrist pins/pistons and cleaned/inspected the connecting rods. They will be going out to the machine shop to be reconditioned very soon.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01008.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01016.jpg

Jbrown1238

04-22-2012, 02:21 PM

The eight connecting rods came back from their first trip to the machine shop earlier this week. This trip was to inspect the overall condition, check measurements of the small end and large end bores, and determine if any further machine work will be required. After the eight pieces were measured the surfaces were shot peened and the bores lightly cleaned up along with the remaining edges.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01617-1.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01620.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01646.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01656.jpg

All that remains for today is a quick check with a dial bore gauge to verify and record the small and large end bore measurements. The information will be recorded on the blueprinting sheet so it is available in the future. The connecting rods will then be individually lubricated/bagged/sealed until they can go back to the machine shop to be weight matched. Each rod will be balanced for small end weight, large end weight and overall weight. This will be done in a few months along with the pistons and wrist pins.

Jbrown1238

05-05-2012, 03:34 PM

Today I went ahead and tapped the oil galley holes. It was the last thing on the list before the block goes out for machine work. I started with a 1/4 NPT-18 tapered tap and cut all three holes under the timing cover. Now I can skip the press in plugs and go with a more secure alternative.

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I then test fit the NPT tapered pipe plugs to make sure they mounted flush to the block. Once comfortable with the fit I removed them and stored them away until the block is ready for assembly.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01684.jpg

While I was outside working on the block Fed Ex showed up with my Silvolite Pistons. I have been waiting for these for a long time. They have been "out of stock" at most suppliers for a while now.

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Ranger4219

08-04-2012, 10:51 AM

Jbrown1238

08-04-2012, 05:41 PM

i have a 99 ranger splash xlt standard cab 2wd. Prepping and prepping and buying parts for my 302 conversion. Was curious on what front springs were used? Your project to date outstanding.:icon_hornsup:

Thank you for the kind words. I have always really liked the 1999 Bright Atlantic Blue, Regular cab, 2wd Rangers like yours. At the moment I am still running my Black 98 as a daily driver with the 2.5 Lima engine.

I cut the stock front springs to get the current height. When looking at the top of each spring and setting the end of the top link in the twelve o’clock position I cut that link at the eight o’clock position. It sits level with a standard flip kit in the rear. I imagine it will be to low once the additional weight of the V8 is included. From my past experience the V8 drops the front about an inch or so. At that time I will decide if I want to source another set of stock springs and start from scratch or go to an aftermarket set up.

Jbrown1238

08-22-2012, 04:37 PM

In between a busy work schedule this week I had a little time to media blast the oil pan and valve covers. With a little luck I will get a coat or two of primer and some color on them before the end of the week. I am still waiting for a break in the work schedule to get the block in for machining. I am just having trouble setting time aside during business hours to drop it off. My son will not be back from basic training until mid December or mid January. That is when we are planning to assemble the motor so I guess there is no real hurry on the machine work.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01800.jpg

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RangerSVT

08-22-2012, 06:08 PM

Jbrown1238

08-22-2012, 06:28 PM

Did you get forged replacement pistons, or hypo's? Looking good so far. Got my V8 swap done in my Trac, you will definitely love it. If you want to go for better mpg (or you plan to do a lot of highway driving or DD) I suggest you go with 308 or even 273 gears. You will have plenty of torque even without the upgrades...

SVT

Thank you for the advice. I went with the hypo pistons on this build, cost and reliability were the main reasons. I think they will work well for the intended purpose of the engine. This will end up being a high mileage courier vehicle. Running between 60,000 and 70,000 miles per year. I am hoping to get around 23 MPG which is where my 93 5.0 Splash came in at.

RangerSVT

08-22-2012, 06:35 PM

Go with the 273's, the lower rpm's will help both extend fuel mileage and motor life...

SVT

Jbrown1238

09-03-2012, 08:00 PM

Go with the 273's, the lower rpm's will help both extend fuel mileage and motor life...

SVT

I have a set of 3:55's left over from my 03 Cobra. I am going to start with that ratio and see where my MPG comes in at. My 93 Splash had the same set up with a close to stock 5.0 and felt nice. If needed I will drop down to the 2:73's. Thanks again for the advice.

Jbrown1238

11-25-2012, 02:02 PM

I got the two coats of primer on the oil pan and valve covers a week or so ago. Now a quick scratch with 400 grit wet and they will be ready for another trip through the parts washer before the color goes on and the pieces get bagged and tagged while waiting for installation.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02293.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02297.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02306.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02310.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02316.jpg

Jbrown1238

11-25-2012, 02:06 PM

I picked up the 8.8 rear from the media blaster. It sure looked nice clean down to the bone. The bare metal is 100% free from dirt and rust.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02064.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02065.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02076.jpg

I put two light coats of primer/sealer on it before getting it ready for color.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02246.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02247.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02259.jpg

Jbrown1238

11-25-2012, 02:08 PM

After a quick dry scratch with 320 grit the black base color went on. Now the housing will be shelved until it is ready to go out and have the axle tubes trued and welded. Once that has been completed it will be rebuilt and then touched up with a final coat of paint before being installed.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02267.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02271.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02272.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02277.jpg

Jbrown1238

11-25-2012, 02:55 PM

I almost forgot, the engine plates showed up from stradashop. Great bargin by the way! I test fit them and decided to take a little off the sides so they will be going out for a trim before paint.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02233.jpg

allpau2thou

11-27-2012, 01:09 AM

You are like a ninja mechanic. Such beautiful work. Much props!

RangerSVT

11-27-2012, 11:21 AM

Your gonna find you will need to lift the drivers side to level the motor, not the passenger side.

SVT

Jbrown1238

11-27-2012, 05:37 PM

Your gonna find you will need to lift the drivers side to level the motor, not the passenger side.

SVT

Not sure what you mean? Are you saying I have the plates listed incorrectly? It looks like it lowers the passenger side.

RangerSVT

11-27-2012, 06:47 PM

Jbrown1238

11-27-2012, 07:04 PM

Okay, then I'm mistaken. It looks like the passenger side actually lifts. I may just have been looking at it wrong. If you haven't, check fitment of the driver side against the block. There is a plug located between the block bosses for the mount. A standard flat plate will make contact, and notching is required...

SVT

No problem. I am kind of learning as I go. I am not far enough along to know for sure which side needs to be raised or lowered and by how much. My only answers have been coming from photos I have collected (see below) or from the experience of others who have completed their trucks with similar set ups. Thank you for the hint on the driver side mount. You are correct; I did need to outline a small section in the center of the edge that will have to be removed.

File photo.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/IMAG0359.jpg

Jbrown1238

11-27-2012, 07:10 PM

You are like a ninja mechanic. Such beautiful work. Much props!

Well, I don't know about being a "Ninja mechanic", I am just trying to sort it out as I move forward. But thank you for the vote of confidence and the kind words.

RangerSVT

11-27-2012, 07:13 PM

I see it now. On mine I lifted the driver side as I removed the engine crossmember on mine and ran a 3/8 x 3" flat bar across the bottom of the frame, so I needed to lift my motor, but having a 3" body lift also helped with clearance, if any. Lifting the engine also gets the oil pan out of obstacles for us 4x4 guys. I can see lowering would be effective for the 2wd guys, but now I wonder how it would affect different brand headers with clearance??

SVT

Jbrown1238

11-27-2012, 07:25 PM

From what I understand the only headers that will fit are the Torque Monster and the obsolete Ford Racing set. I have seen a few members that raised the engine a little bit so they could use a more common header combo but those examples were all running a carb set up and I wasn't sure if the OEM EFI would clear on the 2wd coil spring version.

File photo.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/KGrHqVHJEFBns4ds1BQjyHlTQm60_3.jpg

Jbrown1238

12-16-2012, 05:39 PM

I cut the excess material off the engine plates and also “clearanced” the inside section of the left side plate where it interfered with the engine block. After the adjustments the plates where test fitted and painted flat black.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02605_zpsbf3de1d2.jpg

Jbrown1238

12-29-2012, 09:52 PM

As the engine assembly date grows closer I am still adding last minute items to the build list. Christmas was good and many of these items were dropped at the front door by Santa over the past week.

Clevite Assembly Lube

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02613_zps8d45e61b.jpg

Clevite 77 rod bearings, CB-634 P Standard size

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02614_zpsb44d41e6.jpg

Clevite 77 main bearings, MS-590 P Standard size

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02639_zps71e336f6.jpg

ARP flywheel bolts

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02642_zps0285030d.jpg

Ford Racing timing chain set

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02650_zpsa29d6b7c.jpg

Fel Pro valve cover gaskets

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02655_zps4ac1bcfa.jpg

Fel Pro oil pan gasket

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02662_zpsd1b7c736.jpg

Jbrown1238

12-30-2012, 11:08 AM

I picked up the crankshaft from the machine shop after being polished. Once a few quick photos of the finished work were collected I took a couple measurements with a micrometer to verify everything was still within spec. 2.248" main journals and 2.123" rod journals.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01940_zps0029db15.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01928_zps1ac281eb.jpg

After that the crankshaft was cleaned and lightly oiled then bagged and stored away alongside the heads and intake.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02679_zps4df77de9.jpg

RangerSVT

12-30-2012, 12:08 PM

Jbrown1238

12-30-2012, 02:10 PM

Depending on how long it sits, its good practice to bolt the flexplate/flywheel to the crank for upright storage. Leaning or laying the crank down with time can offset the balance. Looking good otherwise...

SVT

Yes, I read that a while ago after the crank sat for a little bit lying down on its side. I had it checked while it was in for polishing to make sure it still spun true. Since then I have been careful to make sure it does sit vertical. I am going to have it balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly very soon. Thank you for the heads up about the flywheel. I never heard that before but it makes sense.

RangerSVT

12-30-2012, 02:22 PM

It's better to use an old flexplate if you have one, so the good one doesn't get bent. If your using a flywheel, it doesn't matter old or new. Wrap them both in the bag and your good to go...

SVT

Jbrown1238

12-30-2012, 03:42 PM

It's better to use an old flexplate if you have one, so the good one doesn't get bent. If your using a flywheel, it doesn't matter old or new. Wrap them both in the bag and your good to go...

SVT

Thanks again. I am going to take your advise and bolt it to the flywheel then put it inside a large bag.

Jbrown1238

12-31-2012, 02:20 PM

The block is now at the machine shop going through the paces. First step is a run through the thermal cleaning process. File photos.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485409_zps90eb7a62.jpg

Now out of the oven and ready for the next step.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485410_zpsd530db7d.jpg

Then the block was rotated inside a blast cabinet while being hit with steel shot to clean off the ash and any excess material.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485411_zps09789788.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485412_zps09cb6a69.jpg

Next step is a .030 overbore, bringing the old Explorer 5.0 block up to 306 cubic inches.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485413_zps21d62e2c.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485414_zpsb3307e7e.jpg

Last step is a final hone to bring the bore diameter and bore finish up to perfectly match the diameter of the oversized Silvolite pistons.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485415_zps111cfbb7.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/56485416_zps173b10df.jpg

Jbrown1238

01-08-2013, 05:42 AM

This "swap" keeps changing as I move forward. Now I am looking for a second truck, a 98, 99, or 00, Reg cab, 2wd coil spring, 4 cyl, 5 spd, step side just like the one pictured earlier. Now the plan is to do a frame off restoration before the motor goes in. My media blaster quoted me $150.00 to do the frame with no suspension attached. I thought that was a good price. I really can't complete the work I would like with a daily driver. It will require a vehicle that can be disassembled and reassembled over time.

I will pick the block up on Tuesday and I hope to locate and purchase a second truck by April 1, 2013. The engine should be fully assembled by then and just waiting for the frame and body to be completed. If all goes well I hope to have the body and frame back together by July 1, 2013.

Exterior color is another thing that has changed since the start of this thread. Since the body and frame will be separated a color change isn’t that much of a concern. Right now I am looking at 2003 Ford code CX, Dark Shadow Gray. I always thought it looked good on my 03 Cobra and would like to see the Ranger done the same.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC06822.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC07138.jpg

dangerranger83

01-08-2013, 10:28 AM

I also heard that you can hang the crankshaft up by one end and that will help keep it from sagging too.

Jbrown1238

01-11-2013, 09:59 PM

The machine shop took a few extra days finishing up the work on my 5.0 block. They called to let me know it would be ready at 4:00pm today. I picked it up, got it home early this evening, lightly oiled the machined surfaces, and managed to collect a few photos. It is currently located inside my house next to the crank, intake, and heads.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02707_zps12677297.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02721_zpsc8d351ea.jpg

Jbrown1238

01-13-2013, 12:54 PM

I did some minor clean up on the block today and double checked to make sure I covered all the machined surfaces with a good light coat of oil the other night. It was late when I got it home and rushed through the process a bit quicker than I would have liked. After that I went ahead and painted the exterior black and moved it back inside the house where it will be measured once again just to verify the machine work is accurate.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02721_zps4477715b.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02722_zps99aabfff.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02723_zps94005806.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02724_zpsbc22350d.jpg

This is one of my personal favorites. It shows my new 306 block along with a photo of my first V8 Ranger leaving work under throttle.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02725_zps8394cd19.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02726_zps2c178373.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02727-1_zpscf1d0743.jpg

New Clevite cam bearings installed.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02760_zps4d143bdb.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02761_zpsbc22ed97.jpg

Colin

01-13-2013, 03:50 PM

very purdy

Jbrown1238

01-18-2013, 08:26 PM

I started today’s task list with cleaning and chasing the main cap threads in the block. First a good shot of brake cleaner down the bolt hole, then a swipe or two with a wire brush, followed by a well oiled main cap fastener threaded deep into the hole.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02898_zps92b1c4c0.jpg

After all of the holes were chased I carefully wiped them down with a clean cloth and then wiped down all of the main cap fasteners. Then I test fit the main bearings into the block and each of the main caps.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02907_zps51839875.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02905_zpsaa35375b.jpg

Then I lightly set the main caps and torque them down to 65lbs per square inch and moved on to measuring the main cap bore diameter with the Clevite bearings installed. After the math was done I ended up with .0025 of oil clearance on each of the main bearings at 90 degrees from the parting line.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02912_zpsfcb62977.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02920_zps0f12afc6.jpg

Then I moved on to measuring the piston diameter. I came up with 4.030 across the board on each of the eight Silvolite pistons.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02921_zpsa5bc388c.jpg

Next step was to check the cylinder bore diameter to verify piston to wall clearance. I zeroed the dial bore gauge and moved forwarded in the same manner as with the main bearing oil clearance.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02922_zps15e1ff2d.jpg

Now that several of the critical measurements have been established and the machine work has been verified as correct the block is ready to be fully washed and prepared for final assembly. The main caps will be removed and the main bearings will be numbered by location and individually bagged and sealed until they are needed.

Jbrown1238

02-03-2013, 06:01 PM

While I was collecting everything I needed to wash the block I decided to paint my 25 year old engine stand. I carefully disassembled it and washed all of the bolts and hardware just as an added sense of security. I wanted to have a clean work station and make sure everything close to the block was as clean as possible. Before I reassembled it I shot two fresh coats of Dark Shadow Grey followed by two coats of clear. After a week of drying time the engine stand has been fully assembled and is ready to go. Speaking of ready, the block is going for a swim!

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02936_zpsb02d06c9.jpg

I used an entire bottle of Dawn dish soap and went to town with a couple clean rags, a handful of engine brushes and a regular scrub brush. After going around the block three times, carefully cleaning every hole/passageway and rinsing well between cycles, the block is ready to come out of the water.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02937_zps57024b1c.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02941_zpsc9640e5e.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02946_zpsce800c06.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02947_zps39923317.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02962_zps270b84ca.jpg

After hanging it on the engine stand I quickly hit it with compressed air and then the spray lubricant to make sure no water sat for any length of time. The lubricant helped dissipate the water and stop any rust from forming. I then wiped the entire block down with several clean rags and hit it again with more compressed air and spray lubricant. Then wiped it down again to make sure everything was dry of water, clean, and well sealed with oil.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02974_zps5acf78f2.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02975_zps26a44e1b.jpg

Once confident that the main surfaces were wiped clean I went ahead and used a gun cleaning kit to get into all of the oil passages and recesses I wasn’t able to reach by hand. I started with a clean cloth made a few passes and then switched to one wet with oil.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02987_zps55d4cd99.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC02990_zpsa94ff0b9.jpg

Jbrown1238

02-03-2013, 06:16 PM

After the cleaning process was complete I moved on to installing the pipe plugs, freeze plugs, and dowels. Then one more pass with a clean rag and the block was ready to be sealed until more work can be done later this week.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03014_zps17f22207.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03022_zpsa8d1f47c.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03025_zps37fd0988.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03031_zps10f1ed24.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03036_zpsa279e158.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03059_zps0191a19e.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03069_zpsdae9ed3b.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03088_zps6d72c292.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03099_zps76e668c1.jpg

Even though the block looked very clean before I started today you can still see machining debris in the bottom of the pool where it had settled a few hours after the block was removed.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC04000_zps1cefce6e.jpg

doorgunner

02-09-2013, 11:05 PM

Great project/Clean engine!

veefer800canuck

02-09-2013, 11:40 PM

Jbrown1238

02-10-2013, 05:19 AM

this thread is full of awesome.

you're gonna have a really nice truck when you're done.

if all the work you've done so far is any indication, it's going to look totally factory under the hood, only cleaner and nicer.

Thank you. That is what I am kind of shooting for, to have it look very much like it had come that way from the factory. When I had my 03 Cobra I painstakingly recreated all of the factory paint marks under the hood and any of the assembly line stickers around the car that may have shown wear and tear. It looked stock right down to the air cleaner. My dyno guy couldn’t believe I was sacrificing 25-30 hp just to keep the stock air box.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC00050.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC01601x.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/XDSC04885.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/XDSC04825.jpg

RangerSVT

02-10-2013, 07:44 AM

Looking good, keep up the work. Any plans to work the heads, or replace em?

SVT

Jbrown1238

02-10-2013, 02:09 PM

Looking good, keep up the work. Any plans to work the heads, or replace em?

SVT

Yes, I had a stage 3 port done on the GT40P heads along with porting the upper and lower GT40 intake. Also added Trickflow springs and Ford Racing valve seals. More detail on that work is included earlier in the thread.

RangerSVT

02-10-2013, 07:49 PM

I thought you said you did something, but I couldn't remember...

SVT

Jbrown1238

02-10-2013, 08:07 PM

I thought you said you did something, but I couldn't remember...

SVT

I know it was a lot of work and money to push towards a used set of iron heads but I wanted the durability and security from heat that aluminum may not offer.

RangerSVT

02-10-2013, 08:21 PM

I want to get a set if AFR 185's, but with my planned forced induction will put me way over the 500 hp limit of the block...

SVT

Jbrown1238

02-10-2013, 08:56 PM

I want to get a set if AFR 185's, but with my planned forced induction will put me way over the 500 hp limit of the block...

SVT

I think the 500 hp limit really depends on how the motor is used. I know that 500 hp through a stock block is the limit when leaving the line under hard launch with sticky tires and good suspension, but what about medium street duty with semi strong pulls between gears on street tires. Not near the stress on the block under those circumstances. This is only my non-expert/thinking out loud opinion, no real experience.

Colin

02-12-2013, 01:29 PM

only one way to find out

RangerSVT

02-12-2013, 04:45 PM

With the AFR's I would be over 650 with the setup I'm building, not to mention I have the capability to ho to around 750. I'll stay with stockish heads for now...

SVT

Jbrown1238

02-12-2013, 05:51 PM

With the AFR's I would be over 650 with the setup I'm building, not to mention I have the capability to ho to around 750. I'll stay with stockish heads for now...

SVT

With that much HP you probably will need to start looking at stronger blocks. Unless you are planning on really taking it easy on that combination. But we all know how that works out in the long run. It starts out with, "yep, I won't be going over 4500 RPM's, it is just a light duty street vehicle". Three days later it is spinning past 5500 on it's way to 6000!!! :icon_thumby:

Jbrown1238

02-12-2013, 06:08 PM

The cam will be here tomorrow. I am still set to assemble during the month of March after a few last minute items are scratched off the task list this month.

1. Check gap on each piston ring by cylinder, correct if needed
2. Check rod bearing oil clearance
3. Weight match rods, pistons, and pins to the lightest piece
4. Balance rotating assembly with balancer, and flywheel attached
5. Fit pistons and rods
6. Final clean the crank
7. Final clean the cam
8. Final clean the bearings
9. Final clean the rings
10. Final clean the piston & rod combinations

Jbrown1238

02-16-2013, 08:39 AM

The camshaft arrived this week and was inspected and added to the parts shelf. It won’t be long now!! Just a few short weeks and the final parts collecting and preparing will be done and assembly will begin.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03113_zps95457c99.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03114_zps93d1a4e0.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03124_zps76d0ac97.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03145_zps1b3cb05d.jpg

Jbrown1238

02-17-2013, 11:39 AM

We had some cold weather today but I still managed to get some engine work done this morning. I cleaned the cam retaining plate and fasteners then test fit it in preparation for installing the camshaft next weekend. Then I wiped down the cylinder bores and test fit the top and second ring (separately) for each cylinder. It looks like each of these rings will need to be file fit. I am going with .018 gap on the second ring and .024 gap on the top ring. I moved the piston rings and tools into the barn yesterday so everything would be measured at the same working temperature today. I am going to wait and double check my gap measurements when it warms up over the next few days before file fitting any of the rings. Measure twice, cut once!!!!

First I placed the ring vertical into the bore and carefully pressed it down in while lightly compressing the sides.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03170_zpse2015d95.jpg

Then I pivoted the ring so it sat horizontal in the bore.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03171_zps2fc5478a.jpg

Then carefully squared it in the bore by using a piston and ring as a squaring tool.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03172_zpsd0292459.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03173_zpsd1087084.jpg

Then I measured the ring gap with a feeler gauge on each of the top and second rings. The average gap was between .016 and .018 on the majority of the piston rings.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03174_zpsdc30f735.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03175_zpsc81e4ea2.jpg

Jbrown1238

02-24-2013, 08:30 PM

Even with a busy work schedule this weekend I did get the camshaft installed. I cut a piece of threaded rod, drilled out a plastic file handle, and then screwed the two together. The new tool made it easy to slip the cam into place without any damage to the bearings. Installing the cam before the rotating assembly made it easy to get an extra pair of hands in the mix to guide the cam through each of the bores.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03176_zps9fb48d2a.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03177_zps887716c4.jpg

Jbrown1238

03-03-2013, 02:44 PM

A week or so ago I determined that the piston ring gap on each of the top and second rings would need to be file fit to spec. Today I had a few hours to tackle this project so I started by clearly marking the top side of each ring to avoid confusion during the process.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03185_zps03c24331.jpg

I also marked the six o’clock position to use as a reference point to help keep the ring square as the gap is being cut.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03186_zps7b140379.jpg

I set up two pieces of aluminum angle in a vise with a file placed in the center of the two. The aluminum pieces act as a guide to helped keep the ring squared horizontally as the gap is being cut. I then added some painters tape to the aluminum so the bottom side of the ring would not be scratched. Then I measured the inside diameter of the ring and marked the file so I didn’t go too far on each pass and bang the back side of the ring. Because of the Moly coating each pass should be from the outside of the ring towards the inside. By using this method the Moly coating shouldn’t chip as the ring is pushed along the edge of the file. I was very careful to only file one side of the gap, to keep the ring squared on each pass, and double check the gap alignment by holding it up to the light and compressing the ring so the gap closed on itself. By doing so the file side could be compared to the stock side to make sure the gap was consistent from the inside to the outside. If any light can be seen either on the inside or the outside of the gap the next few passes can be adjusted by moving the mark at the six o’clock position right or left as needed.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03187_zps6e9f7e2d.jpg

Each gap was carefully checked and rechecked as it was brought into spec until the final number was perfect. Then all four sides of the corrected end on each ring were lightly dressed with 400 grit paper to clean any burrs.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03215_zpse699e7dd.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03216_zpsec37fde2.jpg

Jbrown1238

04-26-2013, 07:54 PM

As mentioned earlier, I decided to push the engine assembly aside for a bit while I searched for another 98, 99, or 00 Ranger. The black 98 has become the daily driver and currently isn’t the best choice for a frame off restoration/5.0 swap. Earlier this week I secured a one owner original Florida truck with a nice compliment of options.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/4z_zps1f58a140.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/4z_zps1f58a140.jpg.html)

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/1z_zps42d48470.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/1z_zps42d48470.jpg.html)

dangerranger83

04-27-2013, 09:30 AM

That's going to make a nice swap donar.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Jbrown1238

04-27-2013, 08:14 PM

That's going to make a nice swap donar.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Thank you. I hope to have the box off this week and start getting the 3.0 V6 and auto trans ready to come out by the end of May. If all goes well the frame will be out by the end of June.

Jbrown1238

04-28-2013, 05:30 PM

I finished my work day a little early today so I ended up with a little extra time to remove the bed and get it set up on saw horses temporarily. After it was in place I was surprised how steady it was sitting on two 8x4x4’s on top of the saw horses. I may end up making that the semi/permanent home while the body and frame are both being worked.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03235_zpsf7d874e2.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/DSC03235_zpsf7d874e2.jpg.html)

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03236_zpsc7dbb968.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/DSC03236_zpsc7dbb968.jpg.html)

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03250_zps5392e470.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/DSC03250_zps5392e470.jpg.html)

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh168/jbrown1238/DSC03256_zps6554816d.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/jbrown1238/media/DSC03256_zps6554816d.jpg.html)