Unless you want to install it advanced or retarded then set the degree wheel aside and install the cam at zero degrees. Comp Cams are generally dead nuts.
Be VERY careful if using a multi-key timing chain set about getting it correctly referenced to 0 deg.. It is fact that even good brands have mostly crappy markings. The keyway mark MUST correspond to the CORRECT tooth mark or it will be off.
Pay attention to the back side of the cam gear. There are 2 types of spacers on a SBF. One has the spacer cast into the back of the cam gear, and the other is a separate piece. Make sure that you have the right parts to end up with the right thrust.
It is acceptable to re-use roller lifters when changing a roller cam, but check them carefully! You don't want to re-use worn out parts. If they're good then drop them all in a container of ATF, work the plungers and let them sit while you do the rest of the job. Then pull them out and pump the ATF out of them and install them pouring a qt of your motor oil of choice over the cam lobes, thru the lifter bores, before you drop the lifters in.
Put the rest of the engine together but when you install the intake then pour another qt. of oil over the tops of the lifters in the valley.
You WILL turn the engine while installing the rest of the top end. So when installing the distributor you have a 1 in 2 shot while checking for #1 on the damper. You need to have the valve cover off to get this right and true #1 is when both of the rockers are up (the valves are closed) on #1 when the damper is at the #1 mark.
PRELUBE the engine by pulling all the plugs when you are ready to start the engine, and CRANK it over until it builds good oil pressure. Then stick the plugs in it and start the engine. Spinning a "preluber tool" in the distributor hole when the engine is stopped is just short of worthless IMHO.