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What transmission comes in an automatic 2000 3.0L V6 Ranger?


96 Aerostang

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The reason I ask is because I have a week before college starts and can get a transmission out of a 2000 3.0L Ford Ranger from a local junkyard which hit a poll which crushed most of the hood and part of the cab(shattered windshied).

The transmission has 97k on it and I really want to put it into my 1996 Aerostar XLT(4.0L V6 2WD with a 4 speed 4r55e automatic transmission).

I already have the old transmission out of my van which had 268,797.2 miles before it stopped moving the vehicle(The transmission and engine running VERY strong before the transmission went out). I do know for sure the torque converter is bad because upon removal, the contents of the torque converter rattle around inside like lug nuts in a coffee can lol.

I know I'll need to use the bell housing from my old transmission to make the 3.0L ranger transmission fit as long as I know the type of transmission in the ranger, whether it is a 4r44e, 5r55e, etc.

If somebody could please help me out I would EXTREMELY appreciate it!

Feel free to PM me or post right here on this topic! Thanks A Bunch!

~Tim
 


Wicked_Sludge

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wont work.

no ranger since 1992 has used a tranny with a removable bell-housing.
 

4x4RangerGuy

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As wicked stated, it won't work. The bolt patterns are different between the 3.0 and 4.0 and the bellhousing isn't removable.
 

96 Aerostang

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My 1996 aerostar is LIVING PROOF that it works, the bell housing is INDEED removable from the 2000 ranger tranny. My old 4.0L bell housing went onto the 2000 ranger tranny(the 3.0L bell housing and the 4.0L bell housing were CLEARLY different ONLY where they bolted to the engines. I used the pump from the 2000 bell housing since it looked newer and had fewer miles plus it fit perfectly onto my old bell housing after removing about 7 or 8 torques. Another thing I had to use from my 1996 aerostar tranny was the mechanism which mechanically toggles the gears when shifted from the column(the part that's attached to the side of the transmission).

It was an incredibly easy success and if anybody doesn't believe me, do your research or ask me difficult questions about things that might have gotten in the way, note that I am only 18 so I only know so much!!

:icon_pepsi:

I will post pictures tomorrow if anyone cares to see~

I put alot of work (8:00a.m. sharp at the junkyard to make sure I got to the truck FIRST, took me until 1:50 in the afternoon to get it all out and onto a wheel barrel(by my self). I then spent the rest of the afternoon/evening making the essential part swaps and finally at 11:13p.m., I finished and went to wal-mart for some ice cream. (You would not BELIEVE all the weird looks I got from people by being covered in so much oil and transmission fluid. My shirt was drenched in tranny fluid and sweat and my shorts were pretty much the same way~

<i><small>"It's alive, </small><big><b>IT'S ALIVE!!!"</big></b></i>
 

Wicked_Sludge

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i guess my mind was stuck on the M5OD. it makes sense since the 4R and 5R trannys are based on the A4LD that they'd have removable bellhousings as well.

the tranny behind the 3.0 will probably be a 4R44E. most 4.0's used the more heavy duty 4R55E tranny. id'll be interesting to see how well the 4R44E holds out in a heavy vehicle like an astro van and behind a much more powerful motor like the 4.0 :icon_cheers:
 

96 Aerostang

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There was a big yellow sticker on the transmission pan that read "for 4r44e and 5r55e applications", but this transmission has what looks like the beefed-up version of the pump(what you see when you remove the bell housing) because it has a bunch of roller-bearings where my original 4.0 tranny didn't have ANY.

I believe this is a 5r55e because I feel 4 shifts under normal acceleration(and hear the engine noise change because I have a leaky exhaust).

I do notice though that this transmission slips more than my 4r55e(on a flat surface my van would start rolling when you let of the brake with it in drive, now you have to give it a little gas to get it to even move). I also did a test on my driveways' incline, before, simply being in drive would prevent my van from rolling down the hill, now I have to hold the gas on a little bit or it will roll backwards.

I am wondering if I should tighten the bands externally and I wish I knew how. If anyone would enlighten me I'd be all ears!!! (btw I'm 18 and NOT afraid to get dirty!)
 

Jdoyle76

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My 1996 aerostar is LIVING PROOF that it works, the bell housing is INDEED removable from the 2000 ranger tranny. My old 4.0L bell housing went onto the 2000 ranger tranny(the 3.0L bell housing and the 4.0L bell housing were CLEARLY different ONLY where they bolted to the engines. I used the pump from the 2000 bell housing since it looked newer and had fewer miles plus it fit perfectly onto my old bell housing after removing about 7 or 8 torques. Another thing I had to use from my 1996 aerostar tranny was the mechanism which mechanically toggles the gears when shifted from the column(the part that's attached to the side of the transmission).

It was an incredibly easy success and if anybody doesn't believe me, do your research or ask me difficult questions about things that might have gotten in the way, note that I am only 18 so I only know so much!!

:icon_pepsi:

I will post pictures tomorrow if anyone cares to see~

I put alot of work (8:00a.m. sharp at the junkyard to make sure I got to the truck FIRST, took me until 1:50 in the afternoon to get it all out and onto a wheel barrel(by my self). I then spent the rest of the afternoon/evening making the essential part swaps and finally at 11:13p.m., I finished and went to wal-mart for some ice cream. (You would not BELIEVE all the weird looks I got from people by being covered in so much oil and transmission fluid. My shirt was drenched in tranny fluid and sweat and my shorts were pretty much the same way~

<i><small>"It's alive, </small><big><b>IT'S ALIVE!!!"</big></b></i>
How do swap the bell housings?
 

Bnayes1

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New to forums just joined today so forgive me if I do something incorrectly. .just tell me and I will post as I should

I am looking for info on 3.0 to 4.0 swap in a 99 Ranger 4 wheel auto...I ended up with what I believe to be based off the parts truck mfg date of 4/99 a1999 with 4.0 4 wheel auto....question I'm looking to get answer is if I were to yank both motor and trans to swap into the one with 3.0 will it bolt right in and everything hook up fine? I ask because the 99 is the by far the best vehicle I have bit one of the servos is popped and appears wedged and since thered not alot of room to work on the issue I was going to drop the trans...then figured if I'm dropping the Trans I may as well put it a known good trans rather than mess with this one and take the trouble of putting back in and it to still have issues....and I'd researched and thought the trans in this parts truck would bolt up to the 3.0 but now I'm thinking not?

And I'd also figured I could get it on the road quicker if ii pulled trans and motor together and swapped them both out...thoughts? Parts truck does rum amd drive but the rear differential is toast and the rest of the truck is rotted to the point of no return

I have no garage to work in, just have it tarped off to work under it since it's winter here..and I also have a disabled shoulder so I know either route I take will take me exceptionally long to do myself...and I can't afford to take to a shop to he done.

Any help would be appreciated thank you
 

don4331

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OK, for post #1, we don't be too hard on you for adding to a thread that was >10 years old - It's better to start a new one.

Do you have keys for the 4.0? If you do, this will be much easier.
Are both autos? Again, easier if they are.

The 4.0 bolts right in assuming you undo it at the frame, not the engine, i.e. get the engine mounts. But...

You need the 4.0 electronics: ECM from the firewall and the PATS module from behind the passenger's air bag.

Let me know what you have and I will go into detail for you.
 

sheep herder

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New to forums just joined today so forgive me if I do something incorrectly. .just tell me and I will post as I should

I am looking for info on 3.0 to 4.0 swap in a 99 Ranger 4 wheel auto...I ended up with what I believe to be based off the parts truck mfg date of 4/99 a1999 with 4.0 4 wheel auto....question I'm looking to get answer is if I were to yank both motor and trans to swap into the one with 3.0 will it bolt right in and everything hook up fine? I ask because the 99 is the by far the best vehicle I have bit one of the servos is popped and appears wedged and since thered not alot of room to work on the issue I was going to drop the trans...then figured if I'm dropping the Trans I may as well put it a known good trans rather than mess with this one and take the trouble of putting back in and it to still have issues....and I'd researched and thought the trans in this parts truck would bolt up to the 3.0 but now I'm thinking not?

And I'd also figured I could get it on the road quicker if ii pulled trans and motor together and swapped them both out...thoughts? Parts truck does rum amd drive but the rear differential is toast and the rest of the truck is rotted to the point of no return

I have no garage to work in, just have it tarped off to work under it since it's winter here..and I also have a disabled shoulder so I know either route I take will take me exceptionally long to do myself...and I can't afford to take to a shop to he done.

Any help would be appreciated thank you
A transmission from a 4.0 won't bolt to a 3.0.
 

Bnayes1

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A transmission from a 4.0 won't bolt to a 3.0.
I found that after getting the parts truck...didn't think to look what motor was in it

Can the 4.0 and trans easily be swapped in place of the 3.0 and trans?

Plug into 3.0s harness or would I need the harness that went with the 4 ..and what about the ecm?
 

sheep herder

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I found that after getting the parts truck...didn't think to look what motor was in it

Can the 4.0 and trans easily be swapped in place of the 3.0 and trans?

Plug into 3.0s harness or would I need the harness that went with the 4 ..and what about the ecm?
Definitely need the 4.0 computer, not sure how much of the harness is the same.
 

Bnayes1

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Definitely need the 4.0 computer, not sure how much of the harness is the same.
Is it hard to swap the harness?

It's something I've never done...I'll be pulling the whole front clip off truck just so there's less stuff in my way and I can get it pulled out quicker ..there is alot of info in these forums but I'm picking up the Chilton manual also
 

don4331

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You want the harness off the 4.0 engine.

Assuming you have a donor '99 4.0, automatic, 4WD, and are installing into a truck with 3.0, automatic. Also, assuming you have keys for the 4.0.

Starting with the easiest and working our way along. The a to z of the swap.
a. remove lock cylinders from the doors from donor.
b. insert key into steering column barrel, push screwdriver (phillips or robertson) into hole in steering column and remove barrel - its twist and pull.
c. disconnect battery
d. disconnect alternator
e. open the glove box door completely and undo the passenger's airbag (couple nuts and wiring connector). Then undo the PATS module from behind the passengers airbag, again couple nuts add wiring connector.
f. undo the wiring connector from the PCM on the passenger's side of the engine bay, then undo and pull the PCM.
g. undo the wiring connector to the cab on the engine driver's side.
h. undo throttle/ cruise cables.
i. undo the front and rear driveshafts
j. depressure a/c and remove a/c condensor
k. pull the rad, I also like to remove the fan for more room.
l. disconnect starter
m. disconnect the fuel line
n. unclip the transmission shifter
o. undo the transmission lines.
p. unbolt the engine mounts.
q. unbolt the transmission mount and remove, disconnect transfer case shifter (wire if electric, shifter if manual)
r. unbolt the exhaust at catalytic converter outlet (this is usually grinder/sawzall operation for me, but sometimes I remember to take truck to muffler shop and get them to do it).
s. disconnect the power steering pump from engine brackets
t. check for anything still connected
u. check for anything still connected
v. check for anything still connected
w. pull engine, transmission and transfer case. (if you split the transmission from the transfer case, a couple liters of oil will pour out, and it will continue to pour out as your remove the engine.
x. repeat on existing 3.0 truck
y. reverse for re-install
z. sit back and enjoy beverage of choice, you've earned it.
 

Bnayes1

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You want the harness off the 4.0 engine.

Assuming you have a donor '99 4.0, automatic, 4WD, and are installing into a truck with 3.0, automatic. Also, assuming you have keys for the 4.0.

Starting with the easiest and working our way along. The a to z of the swap.
a. remove lock cylinders from the doors from donor.
b. insert key into steering column barrel, push screwdriver (phillips or robertson) into hole in steering column and remove barrel - its twist and pull.
c. disconnect battery
d. disconnect alternator
e. open the glove box door completely and undo the passenger's airbag (couple nuts and wiring connector). Then undo the PATS module from behind the passengers airbag, again couple nuts add wiring connector.
f. undo the wiring connector from the PCM on the passenger's side of the engine bay, then undo and pull the PCM.
g. undo the wiring connector to the cab on the engine driver's side.
h. undo throttle/ cruise cables.
i. undo the front and rear driveshafts
j. depressure a/c and remove a/c condensor
k. pull the rad, I also like to remove the fan for more room.
l. disconnect starter
m. disconnect the fuel line
n. unclip the transmission shifter
o. undo the transmission lines.
p. unbolt the engine mounts.
q. unbolt the transmission mount and remove, disconnect transfer case shifter (wire if electric, shifter if manual)
r. unbolt the exhaust at catalytic converter outlet (this is usually grinder/sawzall operation for me, but sometimes I remember to take truck to muffler shop and get them to do it).
s. disconnect the power steering pump from engine brackets
t. check for anything still connected
u. check for anything still connected
v. check for anything still connected
w. pull engine, transmission and transfer case. (if you split the transmission from the transfer case, a couple liters of oil will pour out, and it will continue to pour out as your remove the engine.
x. repeat on existing 3.0 truck
y. reverse for re-install
z. sit back and enjoy beverage of choice, you've earned it.
Great super helpful and imformative! Thanks. ..I found both trucks are 99s both with auto trans and both 4 wheel drive

So swapping something this new to me is just that new..only question I have now would be...is the wire harness for the motor, ecm, pats etc separate from the entire harness going into the dash? Some friends of mine say but is others say have to yank the entire wire harness
 

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