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need help on 94 B2300 crankshaft seal


kp3ft

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I'm very seriously stressing out. What do I specifically do to remove the crankshaft sprocket without damaging the crankshaft position sensor? (I need to put in a new crankshaft oil seal) I unbolted the sensor but can't remove it because it looks like I have to draw the socket off first with a gear puller. Or do I remove the auxilary gear? In order to remove the auxiliairy gear, it looks like I have to remove the section that the belt roller wheel and power steering pump is connected to. I can't tell if removing that section is complicated or not; it almost looks like it's connected to the intake somehow?

All I want is to replace a freaking crankshaft seal, what is the minimum steps necessary?
 


kdowney50

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Not as hard as it looks

First of all, if you haven't done so, remove the radiator from the truck. This will give you all kinds of room to work in and minimize tool damage to the radiator fins.

Now . . .

There are two pieces bolted to the front end of the crank shaft: A pulley which drives the serpentine belt and a harmonic balancer. (Also known as a Crank Position Indicator) The pulley is actually bolted to the harmonic balancer with 4 bolts. remove them first and remove the pulley. This will give you better access to the large bolt that holds on the Harmonic Balancer. Your best bet is to use an impact wrench to get the nut off. The CPS will come off too. Once you have it in your hand you will understand why you couldn't remove it with the HB (CPI) on.

Or. . .you can use a breaker bar and a hammer. (Although I don't recommend it) Make absolutely sure your socket is well seated on the bolt head, then using a hammer, firmly rap the end of the breaker bar. This will eventually break the bolt loose. (Its also guaranteed to damage at least one finger) Keep in mind, the bolt is right hand thread, so set your breaker bar so it points toward the passenger side of the truck and hit down on the handle end.

This technique also works with the proper size box end wrench. Do NOT try it with an open end or a crescent wrench! To help keep the engine from turning, have the truck on the ground, set the parking brake and put the transmission in 4th gear. It won't stop the motor from turning but will help.

Once the HB (CPI) is off, gently pry out the old seal. Tap in a new one and reassemble in reverse order.
 

kp3ft

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Hi,
Thanks for taking the time. We're living under the official poverty-level income amount, so trying to do everything myself, but the Haynes manual is too general, and I keep nickle-and-diming our money into more problems and running into over-engineered devices on the vehicles. I got spoiled on simple older cars. Anyway, thanks again... gave me a chance to relax a bit.

First of all, if you haven't done so, remove the radiator from the truck. This will give you all kinds of room to work in and minimize tool damage to the radiator fins.

Now . . .

There are two pieces bolted to the front end of the crank shaft: A pulley which drives the serpentine belt and a harmonic balancer. (Also known as a Crank Position Indicator) The pulley is actually bolted to the harmonic balancer with 4 bolts. remove them first and remove the pulley. This will give you better access to the large bolt that holds on the Harmonic Balancer. Your best bet is to use an impact wrench to get the nut off. The CPS will come off too. Once you have it in your hand you will understand why you couldn't remove it with the HB (CPI) on.

Or. . .you can use a breaker bar and a hammer. (Although I don't recommend it) Make absolutely sure your socket is well seated on the bolt head, then using a hammer, firmly rap the end of the breaker bar. This will eventually break the bolt loose. (Its also guaranteed to damage at least one finger) Keep in mind, the bolt is right hand thread, so set your breaker bar so it points toward the passenger side of the truck and hit down on the handle end.

This technique also works with the proper size box end wrench. Do NOT try it with an open end or a crescent wrench! To help keep the engine from turning, have the truck on the ground, set the parking brake and put the transmission in 4th gear. It won't stop the motor from turning but will help.

Once the HB (CPI) is off, gently pry out the old seal. Tap in a new one and reassemble in reverse order.
 

kdowney50

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Been there . . .

I feel your pain, bro. Glad to help. Its good you got to vent your frustration here and not on the car. My first wife could tell you stories about my adventures as a young, poor, inexperienced shade-tree mechanic.

I once had this 1972 Ford Pinto and . . .:icon_twisted:
 

kp3ft

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I feel your pain, bro. Glad to help. Its good you got to vent your frustration here and not on the car. My first wife could tell you stories about my adventures as a young, poor, inexperienced shade-tree mechanic.

I once had this 1972 Ford Pinto and . . .:icon_twisted:
Stuck again, this time on the gear itself. I got the crankshaft sensor off, and the pulley, and the harmonic balancer. The gear is the last piece; I can't get a gear puller behind it, even the thinnest one they make, and I even cut it down smaller, but the lip can't slip down behind the gear because the gear is just too close to the block. Am I missing something?
Thanks
 

kdowney50

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Timing pulley problem

I got your PM. When you took the serpentine belt pulley off was it bolted to the Crank Position Indicator (not Sensor -duh) as I described? If it was, then use those holes to attach a Harmonic Ballancer Puller and yank that thing off of there. Its hard to believe you have to break it to get it off.

Or was it secured to the crank with the same center bolt that holds on the CPS?

Does the pulley have spokes? On the 2000 Dodge Intrepid I'm working on, the harmonic ballancer has three spokes between the center and the outer hub. I had to turn the hooks of a gear puller so they face out and hook the thing from the inside.

When I rebuilt the top end of mine, I replaced the timing belt but had no reason to pull the lower timing pulley, so I didn't look closely at it.

I'm running out of ideas. I hate to think you'll have to break the pulley to get it off. Still, its hard to believe. I too wonder what the engineers were thinking.
 
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kp3ft

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Hi,
It's the third piece on the crankshaft end thats the problem, the gear. The pulley and the harmonic balancer both came off with no problem, didn't even need a puller. Whoever designed the engine left no provision to remove the gear it with a puller if necessary. Attached a picture of it I found on the internet. There's no space behind and on the sides to get puller jaws behind it. Going to heat it up with my propane torch and try my makeshift flimsy puller again. Thanks for your continued help!



I got your PM. When you took the serpentine belt pulley off was it bolted to the Crank Position Sensor as I described? If it was, then use those holes to attach a Harmonic Ballancer Puller and yank that thing off of there. Its hard to believe you have to break it to get it off.

Or was it secured to the crank with the same center bolt that holds on the CPS?

Does the pulley have spokes? On the 2000 Dodge Intrepid I'm working on, the harmonic ballancer has three spokes between the center and the outer hub. I had to turn the hooks of a gear puller so they face out and hook the thing from the inside.

When I rebuilt the top end of mine, I replaced the timing belt but had no reason to pull the lower timing pulley, so I didn't look closely at it.

I'm running out of ideas. I hate to think you'll have to break the pulley to get it off. Still, its hard to believe. I too wonder what the engineers were thinking.
 

kp3ft

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sprocket is off

Used a grinder, drill and chisel to get the sprocket off, after trying everything else. Ordering a new one off the internet.
 

kdowney50

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Holy crap!

Now I see why you were having such a hard time with it. What a mess! Well, I'm glad you finally got it off.

I know now, that if mine starts leaking, it can just go on an leak. Cause I ain't messin' wid it!!

Keep us posted.:icon_thumby:
 

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