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Emissions problem with a 1987 2.9 v6.


chris1

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I have a 1987 ford ranger that is in very good condition. for several weeks now the engine performance has gone down hill. After several long weekends of under the hood and at the point of taking it in to a shop. I found the distributor had come loose. This had been going on for weeks. Because the timing was so far off for so long. I still have a rich tailpipe. Could there be a chance that something else was damaged because of this? Possibly the oxygen sensor? Cat? It runs good and strong now but the idol is not steady and puts out fumes. Last of all, I can't seem to locate a code tester anywhere. I checked the local parts house and they said they hadn't seen one in years. The guy was young and I don't even know for sure if he even knew what I was looking for. Help!!
 
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IMenriched

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doubt if you damaged the cat...maybe the O2 sensor. pull codes

a few other things to look at;
Check your AIC....clean with carb cleaner, best if removed when doing it, repete if necessary....a few others have removed the whole upper intake and cleaned it, but prolly over kill.

Also check your fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator (FPR).

also maybe time to replace the fuel filter and air filter, plugs wires...you know good tune up.

start there...these things are quick and easy... & relatively cheep.

hope that helps
 

chris1

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Thanks for the info! I already replaced the fuel filter and have already removed and cleaned the AIC and the EGR valve. Checked all the hoses and vacuum lines I could find. I had thought of replacing the plugs since it has been a while since I last did. The air filter is new. Last night I got the timing on the money and the distributor locked down tight. Seems to run much better this morning going to work. One thing I was not sure about was the label under the hood stated that when checking the timing you need to unplug the "spout connector". I wasn't sure at first where to find it and I couldn't find anything in the shop manual that showed it but after searching for a while I came to the point where it had to be the connector on the end of two wires on the passengerside of the intake that had a removable T-handle type connector that I removed and it did bring the engine down but not off and that's what I unpluged before I set the timing. If that makes any sense to you. Is that the right connector? I still have a little bit of a high idol. Specs call for 850 RPM but she insists on going back to 1000 or so when driving. If I lower it more the engine won't idol smooth. You might be right about me needing to reclean again the AIC. Either that or replace it. I will check again tonight and see after driving it home if the fumes still persist. Is the FPR the item to the rear of the engine, Close to the firewall on the drivers side with lines hooked to it that clicks or buzzes during engine run? I have a 86 ranger as well that is out of service and has been for several years now and since then I had been driving my 78 El Camino. Since these gas prices have become what they have and I was forced to move into something smaller and bought this 87. So my knowledge of the ranger is a little rusty. I also can hear what I believe is the fuel pump buzzing if I stand next to the truck on the drivers side. Maybe it's going out but I doubt it is causing any fume issues. Might be some of the idol issues though? Another thought I had was maybe a restricted filter in the gas tank. What's your thoughts on that?
 

Psychopete

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Pull codes. :) Your truck doesn't have a CEL.

I already replaced the fuel filter and have already removed and cleaned the AIC and the EGR valve.

Is that the right connector?
Is there any change when you unhook the IAC while it's running? My spout was a little "pill" off of the injector harness, more like a small square. You know you have it when the timing doesn't jump around all over the place when you have the light on it. The SPOUT bypasses the computer's ability to adjust/tweak the timing. It will stay at a solid 10 BTDC (or whatever you're timing to). It's basically like disconnecting the vacuum line off a vacuum advance distributor.

Specs call for 850 RPM but she insists on going back to 1000 or so when driving. If I lower it more the engine won't idol smooth.
Spray carb cleaner around all vacuum lines, and between the lower and upper intakes. I had a vacuum leak develop between the last runner, all the way in the back. I thought an injector wasn't sealed at first when this happened to me. I had reused the gasket though. High idle and popping were my symptoms. I could hear it hissing, too.

Is the FPR the item to the rear of the engine, Close to the firewall on the drivers side with lines hooked to it that clicks or buzzes during engine run?
It's on the fuel rail, near the firewall, drivers side, but it shouldn't buzz or click. What you're probably hearing is the fuel pump relay (click), ecc relay, and frame mounted pump (buzz) under the cab. You also have a fuel pump in your fuel tank. Check the vacuum line for raw fuel, if you do, then it's allowing fuel to enter the engine through that vacuum tap. Best way to know if it's a fuel problem (too little or much pressure) is to check with a fuel presure tester.

Does it run rich cold? If only warm, could be a bad O2. Running rich can clog a cat.

When you indicate that it's putting out fumes, is it blowing black smoke or anything like that?

Did you move the "idle" screw on the throttle body at all? The computer is what controls the idle, that screw on the throttle body sets the base line resistance/voltage for the sensor. If so, you might want to re-adjust since that might make the issue a little more difficult to diagnose.

Finally, since it's running rough verify that none of the wires are cracked (look at the engine (don't touch) in a really dark garage while it's running, look for them arcing to ground), check condition of your plugs, and a compression check might be a good idea if you run out of ideas. Vacuum gauge will say a lot about the condition of your engine as well.

Pete
 

chris1

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Thanks Pete! I plan to work on it this weekend. I was able to locate a code scanner last night at another local parts store. I will try to respond to your thoughts, This truck has been running like this for several months now and just recently got worse to the point that I had to get really into it to try and find the cause before it went down on me. Before it just ran a little rough. I guess last weekend as I did several thing to it I must of bumped the distributor without knowing it and made things worse. Two nights ago while I was at a complete loss, I took one more really good look around before buying and trying parts as a last ditch effort to fix this thing and that when I noticed the loose distributor. At that time I just snuged it down to get home.

I didn't unplug the AIC while running last weekend or the egr valve either as I removed both and cleaned them. I set the timing and yes that sounds like it was the spout connector I unpluged. So at least I know now it was the right connector.

The tailpipe puts out a smell of a bad mix. Not really smoke just fumes. More so in the early morning when it's moist out. Some of that is normal I think because of the outside air being so cool. Fumes are what has me concerned. It shouldn't be happening. I don't have acess to a fuel pressure guage at the moment. I'm hoping the tester will shed some light on a problem or at least send me in the right direction.

The idol after setting the timing was set to around 850 with the transmission in "Neutral" as stated under the hood. This was done after the connector was rienstalled not before.
Yes I set it by the screw on the throttle body. I saw where it stated under the hood that the idol was "electronically set at the factory" but that was the only place I saw to make any hands on adjustments. Didn't think a whole lot of the idea of changing it there but at that time I had no choice since back a few month ago I adjusted it a little to bring a rough idol up just a bit and figured I would try and put it back like it was.

When I drive it I notice in "drive" at a stop light it idols at around 1000 to 1100 RPM. If I switch it to "Neutral" it comes down to around 850, but when I do that it jumps way up at first to around 1200 or 1400 then settles back down to 850. I've never seen this before where it made a difference between "Park" and "Neutral". I figured if you put it into either it would be taking the load off the engine and should do the same thing but in "Neutral" it does better. In "Park" it runs a little higher. Around 1100 or so again. It is weird how it jumps up first then settles back to 850 isn't it? That makes me think of the AIC.
It's funny you mentioned to check the wires at night when I was just showing my fifteen year old son that's how to check the same thing as we were out there the other night working on it and it got dark. Didn't see any arcing. I don't hear any obvious vaccum leaks but will try a spray to make sure. I do hear a clicking sound that really stands out coming from the driverside firewall area. As you mentioned a relay might be what I'm hearing but I don't remember seeing one. Just the round piece with lines that look like fuel lines attached to it. I used a long extention to try and hear exactly where the sound was coming from and it seemed to be that piece. I'll take another look though.

I had heard that there was a filter in the tank, Not another pump. Would there be two pumps? I also have a 1986 2.3 and had problems years ago with the filter stopping up in the tank and boy was that a night mare to replace. You have to have toothpick size arms to reach up and over the tank to deal with the vent lines etc once you lower it. Or as I did just drop the tank enough to get the top open and remove the parts. Still it was mighty tight!
You said look for fuel coming in through a vacuum line? Where exactly are you refering too? I am concerned about imy problem being with the cat. I know some of the problems you can have with one and worry that because this has been a on going problem for a while it might of done damage to it. If it stops up wouldn't cause my same problem? Pushing exhaust back up toward the engine. Isn't that the oxygen sensor that is screwed into it? Maybe that's gone out? I will keep a post going of what I find out as things progress. Probably more towards the weekend when I can be off from work and I'm able to spend quality time on it. I'll run the code scanner and see what it says. Thank you so much again for taking the time to head me into several directions that might help me square this away. :) Chris,
 
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IMenriched

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The Little vacuum line Pete is referring to, is the one on the FPR,{Fuel Pressure Regulator, drivers side of the upper intake&fuel lines going to & from it} from what you discribed, that is what you are hearing noises from...you shouldn't BTW. ANYWAY there is a little vacuum line connecting the upper intake to the FPR...If that line is wet or fuel dribbles out of it...then your FPR is bad.

as far as O2 sensor....yes that screws into the exhuast pipe just ahead or up stream of the cat, mine was in a smaller crossover pipe just ahead of the cat...and it could be/maybe bad to.

you also could have a faulty engine temp sensor,(the one that feed the engine computer), or a air sensor, on the passanger side of the intake, center runner. These things can give a high idle condition also. so checking those codes will be good.

As far as your "exhuast fumes" go on 1st start up. (you're in FL right)... IF the outside air temp is getting down towards 30-40*(& lower), then yes exhaust is more visiable when first starting more whiteish/smokey. AND should disappear, less obvious, as it engine warms up.
IF it doesn't "go away" ...then... there is other issues.

My donor truck is a 87' its MAP sensor was mounted on the fire wall, just abit more on the passanger side of the upper intake, it has a vacuum line and a electrical plug on the bottom or one end, abit bigger/longer then a old flip top lighter. PURhaps, that is what is making your clicking noises too. But your noise maker you mentioned it was drivers side ,the FPR.

hope that helps
 
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Hahnsb2

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Yes check that FPR vacuum line.
 

chris1

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Thank you all for the much needed info! I will be on this thing most of this weekend. I'll let you know what I find. Hopefully this code scanner will shed some light on what's happening.
 

chris1

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I did check the hose at the FPR and saw no sign of fuel then I ran the tests with the code scanner. The test results show a problem with the EGR Valve or the system that runs it. A code 33. I wasn't sure where to begin since I already removed and cleaned it last weekend. So I checked for vacuum coming too or from it. The green vacuum line that runs from the EGR goes to a switch or valve on the left wall (passenger side) between the battery and the air filter housing. Looking on the emission v-line routing label under the hood it calls this part a EVR. It has a two wire plug on it and two vacuum lines. One red and one green. The red one comes directly from the intake to what looks like a vacuum canister down between the frame and the fendor well then out to the EVR. It has constant vacuum and the green has none. I tried several RPM settings but still had nothing coming out to the EGR. I need to pick up a new test light and will get one first of the week to see if and when power comes if it does to this switch. Maybe the problem but not sure. I also ran direct vacuum from the intake to the EGR and also saw no change. The fumes persist and still has a light colored smoke during idol. The idol still wants to run around 1000 in neutral. I want to see if power is going to this switch before looking more toward the EGR. I also wonder if the part mounted just above the EGR that has a electical connector and one hose coming from it has anything to do with my problem? It's like the MAP sensor, looks like a old style "flip lighter". It has a hose coming from the bottom of it about 1/4 " in diameter going it to the EGR valve. That's the only problem I see with this code scanner is that it only narrows it down to a curcuit not always the accual part. That's ok though. At least it's closer. This hose when removed at this switch during engine run has pressure and smells of exhaust. Still at a loss but still checking.
 
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chris1

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I found a blocked port in the intake where the EGR valve bolts up. I wasn't sure at first but once I cleaned the valve and put it back on it still ran the same. After all else failed I decided to replace it. At first glance it looked fine, It was blocked way up inside it. Not able to see but you could feel it, but after running a small but long screwdriver in there I realized that it was pluged off. Once I cleared the passage way and installed the new EGR then my trouble code went away. I now notice a better running engine with more power. I think this is good advise to pass along. If I hadn't back tracked my steps and took another look at that intake port. I might of spent a lot of unessesary money and time on this. Just remember that just because it looks ok from what you can see. It might be pluged way back up inside as was the case with me. The only thing is I still get fumes from the tailpipe and a little smoke. My idol still dip way down to almost a stall out then it quickly hops back up and does this again. After a couple times it settles down. At a loss here on that. I find no vacuum leaks and hoses look good as well. Is it possible the Cat is bad or stopped up? I also just replaced the O-Sensor so I know it's good. I have also taken off and cleaned the AIC. Maybe it's going out on me? Any and all advise is very much appreciated and thanks for all that has been sent so far. If I find what it is I'll post it.
 
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kkjb4x4.0

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Too much EGR flow weakens combustion and will cause the engine to run rough and idle rough or surge.Sounds to me like your electronic vacuum regulator may be faulty.
 

chris1

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When you speak of too much EGR flow what are you refering too? I cleaned the port out and replaced the valve what else would cause too much flow? Does the addional part you are talking about mount just above the EGR? If so I just changed it when I did the EGR valve. The only other thing I haven't changed at this point is the MAP sensor and the AIC or the throttle body control. Other than that I have changed the O-Sensor, Two fuel filters, One in a canisiter before the pump and one hanging inside the frame after the pump, forward toward the engine. Plugs and wires. I also replaced a vacuum regulator of some kind that feeds vacuum to the EGR. It was located on the right side wall between the battery and the air filter housing. It was old and falling apart and only had vacuum going into it but I could never get any to come out. The timing is good. Vacuum lines and hoses also look good. I've been told of another pump possibily in the tank? Not sure, I was told if there is a pump and it has gone bad or going bad in the tank it will cause a strain on the primary one and eventually could burn it out. I don't have access to a fuel pressure guage so it will be hard to check. I do hear the primary pump just under the drivers side while it's running. I know a good sign of when one is going out it will get noisy. Do you think trhis is a concern and what if so couldn't this lake of fuel maybe be causing the rough idol or dipping way down idol when stopped? It acts like it might be starving. I also hear the FPR buzzing and wasn't sure if that was normal or if it's under a strain as well. The CAT is a concern as well but I can only afford to put so much at a time into this thing and don't want to spend anymore than I need to right now.
 
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