Radiator/core support change

LoneRanger93 · Aug 18, 2007

Mine's completely rotted thru, swapping in a new one this week, doesn't look like it'll be too bad, any surprises to keep my eye out for or any helpful advice would be appreciated, thanks!

Jeepman401 · Aug 18, 2007

Its not that hard, its just time consuming.
Just drill out all the spotwelds, pull it out, then put the new one in.
I reccomend bolting the new one in

Jspafford · Aug 18, 2007

Whew, I had to replace mine when I got crashed into.

It looks easy, but was a PITA. There is about a zillion spot welds. Down the sides under the fenders, in the front, the battery tray is welded to it also, I tore the heck out of mine getting it out.

Take loose the horn, lights, etc. I welded mine back in because bolting it in even HALF as many places as the old one was welded will be a major task.

Oh yeah, the front body mounts are part of it too IIRC. When I pulled mine apart the mounts on the frame were rotted out.

Make sure to measure twice, then measure again before attaching the new one. I think mine is like 1/4 inch off and now it looks like my pass side tire is in and my driverside tires stick out too far.

Good luck and wear gloves, it will be rusty and gnarly. I used an air chisel.

EDIT, once I got mine back in there was NO way I could re-weld the battery tray back on, because it attached down below the tray making it impossible to get to. I just use a piece of piano hinge and pop riveted it to the top of the tray and then rivited the other side to the firewall, Redneck as hell, but it has held up.. :woot:

Loanranger · Aug 19, 2007

Two things that might help out a bit. First, when you take the old one out, the front of the cab may drop a bit. Just loosen the front two cab mounts and use a jack, block of wood and some jackstands to prop it up a bit. This will ensure that your hood will latch properly when you get the new one in. And also that your fender to door gaps will be straight. The second tip is to check that the front is square before welding anything. Just measure crossways from your rearmost top fender bolt on one side, to the frontmost top fender bolt on the other side. Crosscheck this and clamp everything in place. This will ensure that your fender to hood gaps will line up when you put it all back together. Usually you'll have some "shadows" in the paint/E-coat that will aid you in lining the new core support up too.

LoneRanger93 · Aug 20, 2007

good stuff, sounds like it shouldn't be that much of a pain in the arse

almostclueless · Aug 20, 2007

A good spot weld cutter is a blessing.....I prefer the type that looks like a flat-ended drill bit with a tiny centerpoint. Like any other drill bit, they can be turned at too high RPM, so I keep the RPMs low and work slow. They have the benefit of leaving the back layer with almost no metal removed if used right.

LoneRanger93 · Aug 20, 2007

almostclueless said:
A good spot weld cutter is a blessing.....I prefer the type that looks like a flat-ended drill bit with a tiny centerpoint. Like any other drill bit, they can be turned at too high RPM, so I keep the RPMs low and work slow. They have the benefit of leaving the back layer with almost no metal removed if used right.

how much are those cutters?

and about how many spot welds are there? I was under the impression that it was mostly bolted on but I guess I'm incorrect

almostclueless · Aug 20, 2007

Eastwood sells a pair for 50 bucks but I bet another reputable place sells them cheaper.

Loanranger · Aug 20, 2007

Use an eighth inch drillbit first to start a dimple, then go to the spotweld cutting bit. It just makes it easier to stay on the spotweld. Any tooltruck should have them, an autobody supply store, possibly a welding supply store, Tacoma screw, harbor frieght. They're all over. Or make your own with a regular 1/4 in bit and a bench grinder. And true true on the slow thing. High speed drills will eat right through on the first couple, then your bit will be toast and need a resharpen. The only bolts holding it on will be the body mounts to the frame, as for how many spotwelds, it's always different and they're never in exactly the same spots. You'll see this if you're welding in a junkyard one. Just take you're time and find them all, there should be a half dozen or so connecting the upper tie bar to the upper rails, and probably 10-12 per side connecting the baffles to the aprons. If you drill too many, you can always weld them back up. If you try to rip it off without drilling them all however, you're going to make a mess.

Randy M. · Aug 20, 2007

Stop and get some weld thru primer before you do this. Read the directions. Trust me, if you don't, leave the old one in. Every spot weld will rust and very quickly.

Loanranger · Aug 20, 2007

Randy M. said:
Stop and get some weld thru primer before you do this. Read the directions. Trust me, if you don't, leave the old one in. Every spot weld will rust and very quickly.

And seamseal!

LoneRanger93 · Aug 21, 2007

Loanranger said:
Use an eighth inch drillbit first to start a dimple, then go to the spotweld cutting bit. It just makes it easier to stay on the spotweld. Any tooltruck should have them, an autobody supply store, possibly a welding supply store, Tacoma screw, harbor frieght. They're all over. Or make your own with a regular 1/4 in bit and a bench grinder. And true true on the slow thing. High speed drills will eat right through on the first couple, then your bit will be toast and need a resharpen. The only bolts holding it on will be the body mounts to the frame, as for how many spotwelds, it's always different and they're never in exactly the same spots. You'll see this if you're welding in a junkyard one. Just take you're time and find them all, there should be a half dozen or so connecting the upper tie bar to the upper rails, and probably 10-12 per side connecting the baffles to the aprons. If you drill too many, you can always weld them back up. If you try to rip it off without drilling them all however, you're going to make a mess.

Cool thanks man, I got a new one off ebay, not using a JY rad support, But i'm thinking I'm just gonna bolt the new one in instead of welding

v-8power · Sep 10, 2007

Someone on here posted pics of all the spotwelds needed drilled. Anyone still have that pic or know where i can find it? Any help would be appreciated.

tomahawk350 · Jan 12, 2012

In the process of swapping mine, it is very time consuming, I counted about 40 spot welds. Can post pics if anyone needs to see anything...

suicidedoors66 · Feb 13, 2012

Pictures would be GREATLY appreciated!! :icon_thumby:

Radiator/core support change

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