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- Joined
- Sep 5, 2009
- Messages
- 87
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- West Milton, OH
- Vehicle Year
- 2000, 1985
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.0L, 2.8
- Transmission
- Manual
Original Poster: 2000RangerXLT
Difficulty: 4.5 out of 10
Time to install: Hour and a Half to two hours. (Depending on Skill Level)
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: This How-To shows how to replace your stock shift knob with an Eaton Fuller Knob and Valve Assy.
Tools Needed:
Heat Gun
Philips screw driver
T-20 torx
11/16in wrench
Drill and Drill Bits
8-36 Tap
5/64 allen wrench
Hack-Saw
Gloves (The rubber knob gets very hot)
Parts Needed:
Eaton Fuller Valve Assy. Pn- S-2571
About one foot of 3/8in All-Thread
4x 8-36 Set Screws
So I decided to do something about my annoying rattling shift knob, and I saw this on EBay for $30. Its an Eaton Fuller Roadranger 8LL Valve assy. The Part number is S-2571.
Here is This stock shifter.
And here is the stock shifter disassembled. In order to get the stock knob off I had to use my heat gun on high for a little over a minute and then pull pretty hard before if popped off.
The threaded hole in the Eaton shifter is a 1/2in 13 thread pitch. I picked up grade 5 bolt and nut from TSC; that to my surprise was the same thread pitch as the Eaton knob. The hole in the Rangers stick is just a hare over 3/8in, so the first thing I tried was to grind the shaft of the 1/2in bolt down so that it would have an interference fit in the stick. this proved to be very time consuming and I eventually gave up on that idea.
While thinking about how to attach the Eaton knob I saw a piece of 3/8in All-Thread from a previous project. I found that it fit in the stock stick very well, but I was still stuck on how I would go about attaching the Eaton knob to the All-Thread without modifying the knob too much. An idea finally popped into my head to use set screws to secure the 3/8 All-thread in the stick and the Knob. I got some 8-36 set screws from the hardware store in town. I drilled and taped two holes in the stick and two holes in the knob.
Set Screws
All-Thread in the stick.
All-Thread in the knob.
All put together. Still need to do something with the boot though.
And how it looks in the truck. I was very surprised when I drove it, at how smooth it shifted. Much better than stock.
Difficulty: 4.5 out of 10
Time to install: Hour and a Half to two hours. (Depending on Skill Level)
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: This How-To shows how to replace your stock shift knob with an Eaton Fuller Knob and Valve Assy.
Tools Needed:
Heat Gun
Philips screw driver
T-20 torx
11/16in wrench
Drill and Drill Bits
8-36 Tap
5/64 allen wrench
Hack-Saw
Gloves (The rubber knob gets very hot)
Parts Needed:
Eaton Fuller Valve Assy. Pn- S-2571
About one foot of 3/8in All-Thread
4x 8-36 Set Screws
So I decided to do something about my annoying rattling shift knob, and I saw this on EBay for $30. Its an Eaton Fuller Roadranger 8LL Valve assy. The Part number is S-2571.
Here is This stock shifter.
And here is the stock shifter disassembled. In order to get the stock knob off I had to use my heat gun on high for a little over a minute and then pull pretty hard before if popped off.
The threaded hole in the Eaton shifter is a 1/2in 13 thread pitch. I picked up grade 5 bolt and nut from TSC; that to my surprise was the same thread pitch as the Eaton knob. The hole in the Rangers stick is just a hare over 3/8in, so the first thing I tried was to grind the shaft of the 1/2in bolt down so that it would have an interference fit in the stick. this proved to be very time consuming and I eventually gave up on that idea.
While thinking about how to attach the Eaton knob I saw a piece of 3/8in All-Thread from a previous project. I found that it fit in the stock stick very well, but I was still stuck on how I would go about attaching the Eaton knob to the All-Thread without modifying the knob too much. An idea finally popped into my head to use set screws to secure the 3/8 All-thread in the stick and the Knob. I got some 8-36 set screws from the hardware store in town. I drilled and taped two holes in the stick and two holes in the knob.
Set Screws
All-Thread in the stick.
All-Thread in the knob.
All put together. Still need to do something with the boot though.
And how it looks in the truck. I was very surprised when I drove it, at how smooth it shifted. Much better than stock.
