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Front Brake/Bearing Problem


susieranger

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I overhauled my front brakes ('92 2-WD) a few weeks ago with new rotors, calipers/pads, and bearings/seals, and today I suddenly started hearing noises from the front right rotor. I pulled over, jacked it up, and the wheel moved up and down like the bearings are out. I opened the grease cap and saw a bunch of black looking grease instead of the pink grease that I saw when I looked it over and double checked our work last week. Does anyone know if it sounds like the seal broke to cause this problem or does it sound like something else could of happened? Maybe we torqued it too tight to cause the problem? I can see that the outer bearing is gone when I took the spindle nut off. The washer looks like it's kind of frozen and I haven't had a chance to try and break it free. I'm 300 miles away from home right now and needless to say I'm not going to drive it until I figure out what to do. Thanks very much for any help.

Susie
 


metalmacguyver

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yes over torquing the spindle nut can cause this and is very easy to do. i doubt it was a seal failure. the seal may now be junk but its not likely that it was the source of the problem.

if you want to to try to fix this yourself, you going to have to replace the front bearings again. do you have a place to work?

i would recommend checking the other wheel bearings as well.

the two important things that you have to do when replacing wheel bearings is to thoroughly pack the new bearings with grease and to properly tighten the spindle nut.

the spindle nut is a 3 step process.
first tighten it to 20-25 in-lbs while spinning the hub.
then back it off a half turn.
retighten to 15 in-lbs.
(not sure if those numbers 100% are correct. someone else will probably verify them.)
 

susieranger

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Thanks a lot for the help. I tried to go easy, but I was afraid that we may have over torqued it as autozone didn't have a torque wrench for us to borrow. Don't really have a great place to work down here in Galveston, but I guess we'll manage. I guess I'll have to find a torque wrench and a seal puller too. Hope I didn't cause anymore damage since the washer looked kind of frozen in there, and the spindle nut retainer was a little bent up when I did the quick check yesterday.
 

MAKG

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First, that first torque is 20-25 ft-lbs, not in-lbs. Or "snug" with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet. It doesn't have to be that precise; just seat the bearings and squeeze out excess grease.

The second is about what you get when you tighten the nut by hand using only the socket to grab (no ratchet). It's just to take out the play while putting negligible preload on the bearings.

I do question whether you used the correct grease. High temperature wheel bearing (sometimes called "disk brake") grease is called for in this application. It's not pink. It's black out of the can, kinda like shoe polish. I'm not sure what you did use.
 

Evan

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First, that first torque is 20-25 ft-lbs, not in-lbs. Or "snug" with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet. It doesn't have to be that precise; just seat the bearings and squeeze out excess grease.

The second is about what you get when you tighten the nut by hand using only the socket to grab (no ratchet). It's just to take out the play while putting negligible preload on the bearings.

I do question whether you used the correct grease. High temperature wheel bearing (sometimes called "disk brake") grease is called for in this application. It's not pink. It's black out of the can, kinda like shoe polish. I'm not sure what you did use.

Usually it's black, but I have seen both light brown and also pinkish hi-temp grease. I could be remembering incorrectly, but I'm fairly sure...

At any rate, like he said...it needs to be hi-temp wheel bearing/disc brake grease.
 

susieranger

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Well, I took everything off down to the spindle, didn't think I had any problems until I saw that the remnants of the outer bearing seem to be pretty much frozen to the spindle at the back of the threads. I banged and pulled on it for a couple of hours but had no luck even getting it to budge. Anyone experience this before or have any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
 

MAKG

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The bearing very well could have welded itself to the spindle. That's not too unusual when a bearing fails. The only solution here is to get a new (to you) spindle from the junkyard and replace it.

If you can't get the rotor past the remnants, clean all the grease off carefully and grind them off with a die grinder until the rotor will clear. You MAY damage the rotor while doing this, in which case you should replace it if it is where a bearing or brake pad might contact it.
 

susieranger

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Spindle

Thank you. Anyone know off hand if other year spindles are compatible with my '92 2wd, and how difficult it is to put one on? Luckily I have until this weekend to get the truck running. Thanks.
 

MAKG

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2WD spindles are integral with the steering knuckles. So grab a Haynes book and follow its instructions for "balljoint replacement," 'cause that's just one step beyond what you'll be doing (they live in the axle arms on 2WDs, so the donor won't have any).
 

susieranger

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Spindle

I found a 2wd '91 spindle nearby. Does anyone know offhand if the '91 will be compatible with my '92? I think it should be but am not sure. Thanks in advance.
 

michowski

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First, that first torque is 20-25 ft-lbs, not in-lbs. Or "snug" with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet. It doesn't have to be that precise; just seat the bearings and squeeze out excess grease.QUOTE]

Um I thought it was in-lbs and not ft-lbs. When I asked about this on here for my 4x4 I was told in-lbs. Now I read your saying ft-lbs. Is it because mines 4wd and his is 2wd?
 

MAKG

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Um I thought it was in-lbs and not ft-lbs. When I asked about this on here for my 4x4 I was told in-lbs. Now I read your saying ft-lbs. Is it because mines 4wd and his is 2wd?
No. Read the WHOLE spec. You don't just install bearings, torque down, and go.
 

michowski

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35 ft-lbs initially to seat the bearing, then loosen it quarter turn, then 20 in-lbs.
 

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