View Full Version : horn quit working
12-24-2007, 01:23 AM
the other day I went to use my horn and it got stuck on, so i unplugged it. I plugged it back it and it was off but when I went to use it again it did not work and I heard a clicking coming from the pass. side kick panel where the fuses are. I used a test light to see if it was getting power when I pushed the button and it was. Its an 06 Ranger FX4.
12-24-2007, 09:36 AM
I would say, first run a hot wire directly to the horn. There may not be enough juice coming from the relay to power the horn. Then check for continuity through the horn to ground. If no continuity, check for continuity from horn mount to ground to ensure the horn itself is grounded. If continuity is good though horn mount, but not through horn itself, the horn is toast.
Now you have to find why the horn stayed on in the first place. Maybe horn relay problem. Maybe Anti-theft device.
12-24-2007, 04:44 PM
I used a test light to check the continuity and everything was ok, and the light turned on when i pushed the horn button and off when i released it. i also hear something in the horn, like a plunger or something, moving, it just doesnt make any sound.
12-25-2007, 01:34 PM
If you have a multimeter, set it to DC volts. Connect the red multimeter probe to the dark blue wire. Connect the black probe to ground. Hit the horn button. Does it read 12V or more. If not, the horn may not be getting enough power to sound. If the reading is 12V or more, ensure that the connector to the horn is good and free of corrosion. If the connector is good and the ground is good, the horn itself is faulty.
The inner working of a horn is just a metal diaphram on a spring vibrated by an electromagnet. The electromagnet pulls the diaphram. The movement of the diaphram also breaks the current to the electromagnet allowing the diaphram to return and its original position. This completes the electrical circuit again and the cycle starts over. Usually there is a protruding screw adjuster on the back of the horn, that adjusts the travel of the diaphram. The adjuster is set at the factory and sealed with a small dab of paint. A horn that clicks (like yours) but doesn't sound, can sometimes be made to sound by adjusting the screw SLIGHTLY one way or the other. If this does not work, the contacts inside of the horn may have fused together. If this is the case the horn it toast.
If the voltage to horn is adequate, the horn is grounded well, and adjustment does not work..........buy a new horn. There are a lot of aftermarket 12V horns. Take your pick.
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