Running Hot

[Twister]

Ok, so i have an 85 B2. It started to run hot about 2 months ago and i have been trying to fix the problem.

I have replaced the fan clutch, water pump, t-stat and all the belts with no results.

So do you think i should get a new rad?

And how hard is it to put the 4L one from the xpolder in my B2?

thanks

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sure it doesn't have a cracked head? Or a coolant leak somewhere?

My choptop had a coolant leak from the heater core, but it was strangely leaking outside of the cab a the firewall, which made it a bit difficult to discover. I managed to crack a head in the process of going nuts looking for the leak.

Of course, if you have the 2.8, you probably haven't cracked a head.

If you have the 2.8L, I have no idea as to if the rad out of a 4.0L will fit fine or not. If it's a 2.9l motor, then the 4.0L rad is a drop-in swap, but you may have to change the lower water hose.

a 4.0l swap on a first gen BII is not exactly easy. I started one in my 88 a couple years ago and never finished because I ended up in wiring hell. I couldn't find the wiring diagrams I needed to finish it. Of course, if you're not opposed to swapping to a newer dash, it would be considerably easier, there would be very few wires to be spliced and all in areas where it's not hard to get the wiring info.

[adsm08]

How much coolant is in it?

Are you sure you aren't leaking?

What is the condition of the coolant?

If all coolant conditions are ok, when was the last time the carb was checked/adjusted?

A lean condition can cause the engine to run hot.

I know the 2.8 has an electronic feedback carb, but I'd guess it still has some sort of adjustment. I'd try to richen it up a bit.

[Twister]

Well i have the 2.8, and have no idea as to ho to check if i have a cracked head.

My lower rad hose was leaking like crazy but i fixed it awhile ago. On the out side that's the only leak i had. I dont seem to be losing any coolant.

With the carb thing, how can i tell if i am running lean or not, and if i am how do i adjust it?

I am running out of things to replace with the coolant system, about the only things i havent replaced are the heater core and the rad. I have flushed both of those fairly well in the past month.

I am stumped. :icon_confused:

[Robert_1967]

my guess would be a cracked head or bad head gasket.

look for water in the oil, and oil in the water, also if it blows bubbles when running and the rad cap is off.

Robert

[adsm08]

You can also pull plugs and look for one that looks steam-cleaned. If it's cracked and leaking into a cylinder it will steam clean the plugs when they fire off the fuel.

[Twister]

my guess would be a cracked head or bad head gasket.

look for water in the oil, and oil in the water, also if it blows bubbles when running and the rad cap is off.

Robert

The rad will blow bubbles?

[kimcrwbr1]

When you flushed the readiator did you back flush it disconnect both hoses plug the lower one and run the hose full blast if you have a long hose crimp it to get the most pressure you can also fill the radiator with easy off oven cleaner let it set a few minutes the flush it good do that both ways a couple of times probably better to take it out for that and be careful as you know it burns especially the eyes.

[adsm08]

The rad will blow bubbles?

when you take the cap off you will see little bubbles coming to the surface because a cracked head or gasket will allow gases from the cylinder into the cooling system and then they come out at the cap.

[Robert_1967]

when you take the cap off you will see little bubbles coming to the surface because a cracked head or gasket will allow gases from the cylinder into the cooling system and then they come out at the cap.

Thank you

Robert

[Twister]

Well i drove it till it hit the bottom of the R in Norm, i took the cap off and i did not see any bubbles. I gave it a little gas after i checked it with the cap off and still no bubbles.

Also what would cause your car to raise in temp in you turn the heat on. I was driving it and it hit the N in Norm, so i decided to kick the heat on and it went up faster. :dunno:

[adsm08]

Suspension of the normal operation of the laws of physics?:icon_confused:

[Robert_1967]

only thing I can think of if you don't have a cracked head or blowhead gasket, is that the engine block might need a good cleaning in the water passages, also you might want to try seeing if maybe there was air pockets that was causing you to think it was over heating.

Robert

[Twister]

Well it is not overheating, just running really really hot. I was planning on getting a explorer rad.

Would i just hose out the water passages in the engine?

[Robert_1967]

you would have to get some engine flush to clean out the water passages in the engine, also try changeing the t-sat, or removing it and see if it runs cooler

[trail B2]

My original 86 motor used to heat up on long slow runs it had a small fan and no shroud just a little safety plate on top of the radiator.Look around for a bigger fan and a shroud if its only when your going slow but you did'nt mention that.When my second motor a 4.0 lost a head gasket I could tell by bubbles coming out of the radiator cap neck.What you do is keep topping off the radiator watching the filler neck so if bubbles come out there right there where you can see them.Watch it carefully though so it dos'nt blow out and burn you.If that dos'nt work there is a test for burned gases in the radiator so you can tell.It could also be your radiator not getting good circulation I put a double thick radiator in out of a gen one explorer that made a huge difference for me now I can be plowing through snow spinning all four four tires for as long as I want and it stays on the bottom of normal.

What I would do is see if I could find a thicker radiator at the wrecking yard don't mention that it's better than the others unless you have to for price.Save the hoses sometimes the bottom one is a little different mine bolted right in.With this and a good fan with a shroud plus your thermostat if it still gets hot i'll bet you have motor problems.

[Twister]

Well i plan on getting a explorer rad to see if that helps.

Will this one work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-92-93-94-FORD-EXPLORER-4-0-V6-RADIATOR-NIB-OE-STYLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a51703f64QQitemZ 250474413924QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories

Let me know.

Thanks

[bonedoc]

Hey, I have an '85 and had similar issues. I replaced my motor and changed everything in the cooling system and it still ran hot at the gauge. My mechanic actually checked the temp with a probe and it was good so it isn't overheating, justreading hot at the gauge. Sometimes it will operate fine and it will set right between the O and The R or right over the R. Other times it will sit over the N, with no rhymn or reason for it. My truck still has the factory feedback system...and I've wondered if there is a connection because my truck's feedback system will run better or worse along with the gauge. So for me I'm gathering everything for duraspark conversion and will replace the gauge if necessary

[trail B2]

That looks like the animal, notice the bottom nipple hooks up a little different so you need the explorer bottom hose.Thats a great price but its probably the thin radiator if you bother to change try to make sure its a double core.

[Twister]

So is a 2 row rad a 2 core rad? :icon_confused:

[Twister]

and how much work is it to put the 4L rad in?

[kimcrwbr1]

Is your t-stat on the lower hose from the radiator. I put mine on the upper hose coming from the manifold it is a two piece housing with a 1 inch bypass nipple I just shoved a plug in the hose coming from the manifold and used a longer 1" hose for the bypass and tweaked the upper radiator hose to fit. I believe the t-stat housing is off a late 85-86 V-6 and the sensors come out the bottom front of the lower housing. After i did the duraspark it still ran hot but putting the stat on the water going out with a 108 degree stat the temp guage has not gone over 1/2 the range and hold steady even at an idle.

[kimcrwbr1]

180 deg stat

[adsm08]

So is a 2 row rad a 2 core rad? :icon_confused:

Usually. Some aftermarket companies call them screwy things, but that is usually a 2 row rad.

and how much work is it to put the 4L rad in?

Its just about as plug and play as it gets. Heptofite just put one in his B2 and I think he said it bolted right in no problems.

[Little_blue_B2]

So do you think i should get a new rad?

And how hard is it to put the 4L one from the xpolder in my B2?

thanks

I have a 2 core rad from an early 90's explorer with a tow package in my '85 BII. I'm 95% sure it was from a 4.0 and it bolted right in, I had to cut a couple holes for the fan shroud (sp?) but it was no problem. My uncle had the same problem with his and no matter what he did it still ran hot.

[Twister]

Yes my tstat is in the lower house.

[Robert_1967]

Thats a new one on me, I thought they was always in the top hose next to the block ?!?

Robert

[kimcrwbr1]

I could never understand why they put it there I got a two piece housing for the upper hose off the intake manifold with the 1" bypass and capped the existing bypass and moved the stat on top and the temp guage never goes past half the scale even at an idle if your running the computer the sensor wires might need to be extended a few inches because the ports are on the bottom front of the lower housing I am sure it will help keep the engine at a steady temp just take note of the year of the donor for bypass and upper radiator hoses. Just something to look at from personal experience

[kimcrwbr1]

I tried to find it at the part stores and could not. I will take a pic tomorrow and try to find more info about the part numbers I feel it would be a good upgrade for any 2.8 that has the stat on the bottom unless anyone can give me a good reason it is not a good thing to do.

[kimcrwbr1]

When I did the engine swap 5yrs ago the engine I got had the housing on it and I changed the intake manifold to keep it stock because it did not have the bypass port on it or it was plugged I cant remember anyway I found the one I have on my truck now at the bone yard when I was looking for a carb spacer for a duraspark conversion. I believe it was a 85 ranger or BII but you will know as it is a two piece housing that bolts right up with a 1" bypass hose and I had to tweak the upper radiator hose to fit.

[foss40z]

I had issues with my single row radiator. Well i guess before i got the truck somebody threw in radiator stop leak cause it had a small leak. Well that ended up clogging a big portion of the radiator and it blew up my 2.9. bought another engine and shoved it in and also bought a brand new 2 row radiator that was made for a 1994 ranger and it bolted right up. It will push it alot closer to the fan aswell which makes it suck alot more air threw.

Currently I am running without a fan right now because i replaced the water pump and it stays where it normally stays as far as heat, as long as I am moving. Also use pure antifreaze/coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water (not any other water) and it will keep the temps down alot. I put in a 180f thermostat aswell a few years ago but might go back to 195f for mileage improvement reasons. The stock panel temp gauge is a pile of garbage. My truck with that gauge right under the N in normal is running at 170F when idle.. Buy a laser temp gauge and point it around the engine and you will get a good reading.

Also let your truck warm up fully and feel the radiator. If you feel some spots are colder then other parts, then you need a new radiator.

good luck

[Twister]

Well we let it heat up one day and half was warm and half was cold still, so i guess i will be ordering a new rad tomorrow.

This is the one i plan on getting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280455750762&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33602