Need Alittle More Info On Manual Swap

TheOne · Mar 17, 2010

well the parts pile is almost complete..last couple questions and i should be good to go!

do i need the flywheel bolts or can i use the bolts from my auto? (im assuming flex plate bolts?)

i almost have the wiring figured out i think...

what guage wire do i need for the big terminal on my 4L starter? where does it connect on my starter solinoid?

thats all that i can think of for now....

adsm08 · Mar 17, 2010

I think the flywheel/flex plate bolts are the same, and I have never had a problem re-using them, just clean the threads up good and put some blue loc-tite on them.

When I wired up my 4.0 starter I got a 60" (I think, it was the longest one they had) double looped battery cable, and it connects to the big post that is closer to the rear of the truck.

Here is the cable I bought:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=570480_46876_9557_&skuDescription=Duralast+/+Battery+Cable&brandName=Duralast&displayName=Battery+Cable&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=2992&isSearchByPartNumber=&fromWhere=&fromString=&counter=1&itemId=170-0&navValue=17400170&filterByKeyWord=&productId=570480&searchText=&categoryDisplayName=Battery&parentId=74-0

TheOne · Mar 17, 2010

oh ok i can probably get that cheap at my work!
and that runs from the big post on the starter to the big post on the starter solinoid. the one facing the truck basically?

ok blue loctite is on order.

i also just scored a barely used warn m8000 for $450!

adsm08 · Mar 17, 2010

There are two big posts on the starter relay up at the fender, one closer to the battery, one closer to the firewall, you want the one closer to the firewall.

The other way to be 100% sure is, trace your + battery cable from the batt to the starter relay, which ever terminal that line is on, you want the OTHER one.

trail B2 · Mar 17, 2010

For me the manual flywheel bolts were a little longer as the flywheel was thicker than the flex plate.

TheOne · Mar 17, 2010

i dont think that should matter much tho? so long as there is lock tite in there and its torqued down there shouldnt be a problem. no?

adsm08 · Mar 17, 2010

For your purpose I'd think you'd be ok. Stick them through the flywheel and make sure you have more than 4 or 5 threads sticking through though. I'd think you'd want at least 1/4 to 3/8 inch sticking through it.

IR8NOTCH · Mar 17, 2010

adsm08 said:
There are two big posts on the starter relay up at the fender, one closer to the battery, one closer to the firewall, you want the one closer to the firewall.

The other way to be 100% sure is, trace your + battery cable from the batt to the starter relay, which ever terminal that line is on, you want the OTHER one.

Actually,you want the heavy (preferably 4 gauge) battery cable on the same terminal that the battery is connected to (or the "B" terminal on the relay). The starter is designed to have battery current to the solenoid on the starter at all times.The small terminal on the starter-mounted solenoid requires a 12V signal (preferably 12 gauge) which would be from the opposite terminal (or "A" terminal on the relay).
I have seen it done a few other ways,but this is the correct way to wire that starter.
Hope this helps.
Chris

BTW. The "B" terminal on the relay should be the one closest to the battery. Also,the relay usually has the letters marked on them.

adsm08 · Mar 17, 2010

I have it wired up the way I suggested and it works just fine.

Not saying that IR8NOTCH is wrong. The 4.0 harness does have the loops that go around both sides, I just know how I wired it up and that it works, so I put what I knew would work.

On a side note, could wiring it the way I did make the starter keep running for a few seconds after you let off the key? Mine makes a noise that sounds kinda like the starter in over-run, but I never chalked it up to the starter being on until just now because it didn't start making the noise until about 2 weeks after the swap. I figured the solenoid was just sticking keeping it engaged for a second or two.

IR8NOTCH · Mar 17, 2010

adsm08 said:
I have it wired up the way I suggested and it works just fine.

Not saying that IR8NOTCH is wrong. The 4.0 harness does have the loops that go around both sides, I just know how I wired it up and that it works, so I put what I knew would work.

On a side note, could wiring it the way I did make the starter keep running for a few seconds after you let off the key? Mine makes a noise that sounds kinda like the starter in over-run, but I never chalked it up to the starter being on until just now because it didn't start making the noise until about 2 weeks after the swap. I figured the solenoid was just sticking keeping it engaged for a second or two.

Yes.
That could definitely cause that. Where is your small wire connected to? Is it looped at the starter from the large terminal to the smaller one? Or is it to the same terminal on the fender mounted relay?

adsm08 · Mar 18, 2010

Same rear terminal. I tried to copy the 2.9 starter wiring as closely as I could because sometimes I get confused with electrical stuff. I knew the 2.9 starter worked, so I plugged the wires in in roughly the same spots.

IR8NOTCH · Mar 18, 2010

adsm08 said:
Same rear terminal. I tried to copy the 2.9 starter wiring as closely as I could because sometimes I get confused with electrical stuff. I knew the 2.9 starter worked, so I plugged the wires in in roughly the same spots.

Basically by doing that you have the same thing as looping the wire at the starter. If I were you I would take the heavy gauge wire,an connect it to the terminal with constant voltage. Leave the signal wire on the switched side of the relay (other large terminal. not the same one as the battery is connected to.). I had the same problem with the starter running on in one of my race cars.Wired it correctly,and it never happened again. Like I said above by leaving both terminals on the same side it is the same as looping the wire at the bottom.
The 4.0 starter is the same design as the Ford racing mini-starter's. Read the first warning in the link below.It shows the installation instructions for a Ford racing mini-starter.

It says:
! ! ! WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL A JUMPER WIRE BETWEEN THE BATTERY TERMINAL AND THE SOLENOID BLADE TERMINAL AT THE STARTER TO AVOID THE USE OF THE # 12 WIRE. IF DONE, VOLTAGE IS GENERATED TO THE SOLENOID BY THE STARTER SPINNING AFTER THE RELEASE OF THE START KEY OR BUTTON, CAUSING THE STARTER TO REMAIN ENGAGED, RESULTING IN SEVERE DAMAGE AND EVENTUAL FAILURE OF THE STARTER ! ! !

http://www.earlybroncos.com/\tech\Ford High torque Starter.pdf

Hope this helps.
Chris

adsm08 · Mar 18, 2010

Hmm,...

I'll have to go fix that tomorrow.

Need Alittle More Info On Manual Swap

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

New Member

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals