Tips on changing the Ignition Module

Is there any easy way to do this? I really don't want to move the distributor... Thanks!

if you use a tfi wrench there will be no problem, I've done it loads of times. you can get one at any autoparts store for less than $10 you don't even need to pull the distributor cap to get the module out.

make sure it isnt the wiring harness up to the TFI module....

if you can replace the ignition module on a 87 ranger's, 4x4, ignition module, that's on the distributor, without having to remove the distributor cap, as you say...

if that's possible, apparently, the distributor's igniton module must slide in to the side of the distribuor, is that correct??

I have never replaced mine, yet, that's why I'm asking, incase I have to, some day...

are the bolts, that hold the ignition module in place, hard to get at... I'm assuming they are on the side of the distributor, close to where the wiring harness plugs into the igniton module, is my assumption correct...

holyford86 said:

if you use a tfi wrench there will be no problem, I've done it loads of times. you can get one at any autoparts store for less than $10 you don't even need to pull the distributor cap to get the module out.

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greaseyfingers said:

if you can replace the ignition module on a 87 ranger's, 4x4, ignition module, that's on the distributor, without having to remove the distributor cap, as you say...

if that's possible, apparently, the distributor's igniton module must slide in to the side of the distribuor, is that correct??

I have never replaced mine, yet, that's why I'm asking, incase I have to, some day...

are the bolts, that hold the ignition module in place, hard to get at... I'm assuming they are on the side of the distributor, close to where the wiring harness plugs into the igniton module, is my assumption correct...

Click to expand...

yes there are (2) 5.5mm??...one on each side. {get the little wrench for the job, save yourself the headaches.} the bolts are in recessed pockets, once you look at a new one (TFI) it will be pretty clear.

I think the repair manual recommends that you disconnect the battery cable before starting. this also will clear any stored code/s that maybe present in the engine computer.

unplug from harness.

Once the little bolts/ screws are removed, the TFI (aka ~ignition module), slides straight down, aprox 1/4-3/8"...to clear the (3) inline female electrial spades. this maybe/should be a bit stiff...meaning with resistance.
once this is clear, it will freely move as soon as you get it in your hands it will be clear....clean the mounting area well for the new part.

place diealectric grease/compound on the back, where it mounts to the Distributor, of the new TFI. This helps insulate from heat and moisture. Most should come with a little tube of this grease..if not ask for it.

Hope that helps

IMenriched said:

yes there are (2) 5.5mm??...one on each side. {get the little wrench for the job, save yourself the headaches.} the bolts are in recessed pockets, once you look at a new one (TFI) it will be pretty clear.

I think the repair manual recommends that you disconnect the battery cable before starting. this also will clear any stored code/s that maybe present in the engine computer.

unplug from harness.

Once the little bolts/ screws are removed, the TFI (aka ~ignition module), slides straight down, aprox 1/4-3/8"...to clear the (3) inline female electrial spades. this maybe/should be a bit stiff...meaning with resistance.
once this is clear, it will freely move as soon as you get it in your hands it will be clear....clean the mounting area well for the new part.

place diealectric grease/compound on the back, where it mounts to the Distributor, of the new TFI. This helps insulate from heat and moisture. Most should come with a little tube of this grease..if not ask for it.

Hope that helps

Click to expand...

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no doubt, your tecnique for changing the ignition module will save a lot of time...

being I haven't changed one, before, I was assuming the bolts that hold the ignition module, in place, needed to be removed by taking the distributor cap off, for gaining access, to do so...

which would have been a waste of time and work, only, to find out these bolts, that hold the distributor's ignition module, in place, are mounted in recessed pockets, as you said, on the side of the distibutor...

autozone's website has a replacement ignition module for my ranger, priced at only $36.99, with a limited lifetime warranty... which seems like it's a very good price...

especially, when you're getting a lifetime warranty, of the ignition module, covering the owner of the vehicle, for as long as you own it...

your information was very helpful... and I'm sure it will, no doubt, help everyone else, too, when they want to change their ignition module, by using your tecnique, if they weren't aware that the ignition module could be changed that way, already...

one thing not mentioned, clean the back of the distributor with something like brakleen on a rag to get all of the old dielectric grease off there. you want a good solid connection so the heat dissipation is equal.

holyford86 said:

one thing not mentioned, clean the back of the distributor with something like brakleen on a rag to get all of the old dielectric grease off there. you want a good solid connection so the heat dissipation is equal.

Click to expand...

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good information to know... thanks...

when you're installing the new ignition module, is it very hard to line the module's plug in tabs, to where they need be inserted, inside the distributor...

I'm assuming, you must have to go by feel, in doing so... is that how it's done...

got any tips, for the best way for how do this, correctly, for someone who hasn't done it, before......

greaseyfingers said:

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good information to know... thanks...

when you're installing the new ignition module, is it very hard to line the module's plug in tabs, to where they need be inserted, inside the distributor...

I'm assuming, you must have to go by feel, in doing so... is that how it's done...

got any tips, for the best way for how do this, correctly, for someone who hasn't done it, before......

Click to expand...

what I did was...once the old one was loose and removed...I restalled it again so I had a feel as to how it would be with new on....used the old one so in the unfortunate event that something got broken...it happened to the old one not the new one. this helped for myself..it is pretty hard to damage anything or get it installed incorrectly.

You also can take a sharpie marker ,before removal, and mark on the ignition module the outline of the distributor housing (harness plugin side)....remove the now old one with mark on it ...line up both new and old...and transferr the mark to the new one in the same location...hence...giving you a visual reference of proper location.

I didn't notice if anybody mentioned it or not, but when I replaced mine on my 87 a few months ago using the TFI wrench I could only get the wrench in one of the holes. Apparently if it has the original module installed, Ford put little grey caps in the holes that the bolts go in. I had to use a very small screwdriver and pry the one remaining cap out before I could get that bolt out. If I had known it was there the job would have been so much easier. It's a shame we don't eyes on the ends of our fingers. Hope this helps.

87Ranger4me said:

I didn't notice if anybody mentioned it or not, but when I replaced mine on my 87 a few months ago using the TFI wrench I could only get the wrench in one of the holes. Apparently if it has the original module installed, Ford put little grey caps in the holes that the bolts go in. I had to use a very small screwdriver and pry the one remaining cap out before I could get that bolt out. If I had known it was there the job would have been so much easier. It's a shame we don't eyes on the ends of our fingers. Hope this helps.

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all good information is helpful... thanks...

I was kind of wondering, before, you mentioned it, if, maybe, these 5.5mm bolt/screws that secure the ignition module to the distributor, might have some type of caps covering these recessed pocket holes, as you said you had to pry off, before being able to install your new ignition module...

do these grey caps need to be put back in, these rececessed pocket holes, after removing and re installing the 5.5mm bolt/screws, when replacing the ignition module...

I didn't put mine back in, not quite sure what purpose they served anyway, maybe to keep water out. If you were concerned about it you could stick some wheel bearing grease in the holes after you get it installed, but it would probably just melt and run out.

87Ranger4me said:

I didn't put mine back in, not quite sure what purpose they served anyway, maybe to keep water out. If you were concerned about it you could stick some wheel bearing grease in the holes after you get it installed, but it would probably just melt and run out.

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do these caps get damaged when prying them out... or, do you think they could re re used, again...

my guess is, these caps are there, for keeping moisture out, of these recessed pocket holes...

what do these caps seem to made from, plastic, rubber, or something else...

a person could, probably, just put a dab of silicone over these holes, if the old caps can't be re used, incase it's necessary to keep moisture out...

you'd think a new ignition module, would come with these new caps, also, when they'd know you'd have to take out the old ones, incase they get damaged, or broken, while replacing the module...

They were plastic, and yes I could have put them back at great difficulty,(no way to tap them back in, they were probably installed on the bench out of the truck), but could not see any reason. If you look at the holes in the module you will see that the holes are sealed anyway, so no way for water to get at anything that could cause a problem anyway.

87Ranger4me said:

They were plastic, and yes I could have put them back at great difficulty,(no way to tap them back in, they were probably installed on the bench out of the truck), but could not see any reason. If you look at the holes in the module you will see that the holes are sealed anyway, so no way for water to get at anything that could cause a problem anyway.

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when I change my module, I'll probably leave mine out, too, being you haven't had any moisture problems, after not replacing your recessed pocket hole caps, when you changed your ignition module...

hope my hole caps aren't too hard to get out, when I replace my ignition module...

it sounds like ford didn't need to put them in there, in the first place, if they don't serve any real purpose for moisture protection...

then, it would be easier for more people to figure out how to gain access to the ignition module's two 5.5mm bolt/screws, for removing and replacing their ignition module...

unless some people are, already, lucky enough to know that these hole caps are there, and need to be removed, first, so they could complete this task...

anyway, all is well that ends well...

I, surely, appreciate your input of information... at least, now, I know about it, and will be able to make the job that much easier...

and I'm sure other people who read this, will be glad to discover this information, as well... which will, no doubt, help them, too, when they have to replace their ignition module...