Towing mustang with 02' 4.0 SOHC Auto??

[jfisher]

I've been searching for the past half hour and really haven't found any good info on this specific of a topic.

I've got an 02' Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4 Automatic. So from reading the tech section, besides the 4x4, my truck should carry near the highest tow rating.

I've got a 1993 Mustang that, in the future, I may want to tow long distances just to be safe. When I say long distance, I'm talking Ohio to Texas, Ohio to Florida, etc for some of the bigger races I plan on going to.

I'm not exactly sure what the car weighs currently, but with the old 306, stock iron e7te heads, and stock front suspension, the car came in at 2975 without me in it at a local race tracks scales.

I've since gone with a 351w based engine but now have aluminum heads, full tubular front suspension with coilovers, etc.

I haven't even began looking at trailers yet, so say for example I just rent an open uhaul trailer. Would this be possible with my truck? I plan on adding a cold air intake and exhaust down the road and getting the truck tuned at Modular Depot. I'm also going to add a nice set of pads and rotors when the brakes need replaced.

I haven't really looked at hitches yet, but plan on going with a really nice setup.

Is this something you guys think is possible without killing my truck to death? It's got 82k on it now and zero problems.


Also, what are the most important upgrades I can make to the truck to make it easie to tow? Obviously trailer brakes. Anything else?

[Gotta_gofast]

I think you could do it provided you have a lightweight trailer and you don't carry a lot of cargo. An intake and exhaust will help slightly when passing, but I'd put the money into woe-power more than go-power. That means, I'd invest in some better brakes. I would change all of your fluids over to higher end synthetics. While you're trans is draining its old fluid, I would install a larger transmission fluid cooler.

What gears do you have now? I have 4.10s in my 4.0L and with Overdrive deselected, I turn just over 3,000rpm at 65mph. With state-to-state travelling usually between 65-70mph, I would want something a little less agressive.

Getting a custom tune to enhance throttle response and midrange power will help more than the exhaust or intake when towing. But if you have your heart set on exhaust, I will suggest something mellow like a single sideswept system with a larger muffler. I chose the dynomax system as it doesn't produce a lot of extra noise or drone when towing.

Also, invest in quality tires if you haven't. When towing you increase the stress on your tires. When driving in warm climates, you increase the stress on your tires. When travelling for a long period of time, your tires heat up which causes more stress. Look for a hardy tire that has a high enough load rating for what you plan to use it for, and look for a tire that also provides good heat dissipating characteristics.

Your last question. Yes, towing a car a long distance I would deffinatly recommend trailer brakes. Make sure your suspension is in good working order. Possibly consider an add-a-leaf if you find your truck to wander while pulling. Again, the wandering might be contributed to a poor tire with a flimsy sidewall.

And lastly... that 358 small block would fit between the front tires of a ranger, too!

[stegomon]

do it!!! she will eather go or blow.

you have more horse power than my fathers old 86 f-250 with a 302 and that thing has halled alot of crap...the trailer it self is heaver than some cars

[Tractorman]

I did the exact same as you, OP.

Have my Ranger, towed my 99 Cobra home from Texas to WI.

With all my crap, like clothes and stuff, I was 1000 pounds over GCVW. So without that crap I was right on the limit. I believe my trailer was around 1700 pounds.

It's not the power, I did 75 most of the way, with horrible gas mileage. It's the handling. Don't use a Uhaul trailer, I doubt they would even let you anyway. You need trailer brakes, and a good brake controller, and some sort of WD hitch. Trust me. I used the Equilizer brand, it has sway control built in, and the bars are solid, which seems to stop the hop over rough pavement.

Why does everyone suggest power mods for pulling, when that's the LAST thing to be done. I didn't win races while pulling my car around by any means, but it would eventually get up to speed and hold drive most of the time, save for steep hills. You won't need add a leaf with a proper WD hitch. Get a good brake controller!

[Tractorman]

http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/equal-i-zer-hitch-1000-10000lbs-trailer-weight-90-00-1000.html

That's the hitch I was talking about, at the best price I can find.

Use the Prodigy brake controller, or the Jordan Ultima 2020.

I would switch to Amsoil for the trans fluid, it can stand the high temps. The heat doesn't kill transmissions, its the fluids that are broken down from heat.

Trans temp gauge would be smart, maybe a larger cooler, or moving the stock one to get better airflow over it.

[jfisher]

I think you could do it provided you have a lightweight trailer and you don't carry a lot of cargo. An intake and exhaust will help slightly when passing, but I'd put the money into woe-power more than go-power. That means, I'd invest in some better brakes. I would change all of your fluids over to higher end synthetics. While you're trans is draining its old fluid, I would install a larger transmission fluid cooler.

What gears do you have now? I have 4.10s in my 4.0L and with Overdrive deselected, I turn just over 3,000rpm at 65mph. With state-to-state travelling usually between 65-70mph, I would want something a little less agressive.

Getting a custom tune to enhance throttle response and midrange power will help more than the exhaust or intake when towing. But if you have your heart set on exhaust, I will suggest something mellow like a single sideswept system with a larger muffler. I chose the dynomax system as it doesn't produce a lot of extra noise or drone when towing.

Also, invest in quality tires if you haven't. When towing you increase the stress on your tires. When driving in warm climates, you increase the stress on your tires. When travelling for a long period of time, your tires heat up which causes more stress. Look for a hardy tire that has a high enough load rating for what you plan to use it for, and look for a tire that also provides good heat dissipating characteristics.

Your last question. Yes, towing a car a long distance I would deffinatly recommend trailer brakes. Make sure your suspension is in good working order. Possibly consider an add-a-leaf if you find your truck to wander while pulling. Again, the wandering might be contributed to a poor tire with a flimsy sidewall.

And lastly... that 358 small block would fit between the front tires of a ranger, too!

I wouldn't be carrying that much extra cargo. Some basic hand tools, drag wheels and tires, and an aluminum jack. I'm sure that all adds up though.

I currently run Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil in the truck and am going to have the trans flushed here soon with a new filter. Who makes a good upgraded trans cooler? Are these typically bolt in or will I need to make some modifications to the truck?

I'm honestly not sure what gears I have now. Whenever I get some time that I'm not working on the mustang, I'll crawl up under there and read the rear end tag.

The intake and exhaust are a kind of "might as well" mod. We have lots of salt here in Cincy, and the exhaust is already looking really rough. I saw a stainless single catback on summit for just over $200 so I'll probably pick that up.

The truck also does need tires, and I'm going to go with some 265/75/16's. I really like the Nitto Terra Grapplers.

Thanks for the good info!!!

[jfisher]

I did the exact same as you, OP.

Have my Ranger, towed my 99 Cobra home from Texas to WI.

With all my crap, like clothes and stuff, I was 1000 pounds over GCVW. So without that crap I was right on the limit. I believe my trailer was around 1700 pounds.

It's not the power, I did 75 most of the way, with horrible gas mileage. It's the handling. Don't use a Uhaul trailer, I doubt they would even let you anyway. You need trailer brakes, and a good brake controller, and some sort of WD hitch. Trust me. I used the Equilizer brand, it has sway control built in, and the bars are solid, which seems to stop the hop over rough pavement.

Why does everyone suggest power mods for pulling, when that's the LAST thing to be done. I didn't win races while pulling my car around by any means, but it would eventually get up to speed and hold drive most of the time, save for steep hills. You won't need add a leaf with a proper WD hitch. Get a good brake controller!

That is a super nice hitch, thanks for the link. A little expensive, but looks like it's well worth it.

I would think your Cobra is closer to 3500lbs also, so that gives me some confidence. Did you make that trip just one time or have you done it multiple times? I plan on making several trips a year that are long distances.

[Tractorman]

That is a super nice hitch, thanks for the link. A little expensive, but looks like it's well worth it.

I would think your Cobra is closer to 3500lbs also, so that gives me some confidence. Did you make that trip just one time or have you done it multiple times? I plan on making several trips a year that are long distances.

O yea, my Cobra plus all the other crap was closer to 4500 pounds. I did it just once, but had over 110k on the odometer.

I would stick with the stock tire size, at 70 or so it puts it right in the meat of the powerband. I am assuming that you have 4.10's like I do. Axle codes are on the door frame, and I think the codes meaning are in the tech library.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It can be done. I pulled two BIIs on tow dollies long distances with my Ranger and I pulled my choptop on a tow bar a couple hundred miles.

You will want at least a class III hitch, the biggest trans cooler you can find, the biggest brakes you can on the Ranger, trailer brakes, inertia brake controller and upgraded rear springs.

A trailer is do-able. You'll want one with two axles that both have brakes to stop better. But you'll also want one that doesn't weigh a lot.

Some tow dollies are equipped with brakes. That could help a lot.

Do not expect good fuel economy.

If it worries you, get an F-150 with a 300-6.

[Will]

300-6? Bleah.

I think the factory trans cooler is probably adequate. They rated the truck for 6,000#, and they sure as hell don't want it back during the warranty period. I wouldn't just arbitrarily install another auxilliary cooler without a trans temp sensor proving I needed it.

Anyway, whatever makes you feel good is what you should do. The most important thing is not overheating the tranny. Don't let it shift on hills--hold it down a gear. The main heat maker is the torque converter. If it unlocks its clutch it begins to slip--which it's supposed to. I don't know anything about how it's controlled. Hopefully it has a torque-sensitive controller and will lock the clutch if you are holding it down a gear. If the engine-gear combination is adequate for the hill, it doesn't need to be unlocked. An over-ride switch would be worth looking into so you could leave it locked. Much more effective at controlling heat than another cooler. Downshifting, even of the converter won't stay locked, still takes a lot of heat away since the converter is torque sensitive and won't slip nearly as much when you are taking the hills at 3,000rpm instead of 2,000rpm.

And I think a free-flowing exhaust is great. I wouldn't install a chip unless all it did was give you some tow-haul functionality to help keep the tranny cool. You definately don't want to get any more torque out of the motor. Torque means heat. You will be using your Ranger for a truck and you want to adjust the truck to the motor.

An angle-iron utility trailer with a lumber deck 14' long weighs around 1,300# with a pair of 3,500# axles under it--the same weight as a Featherlite aluminum car hauler. My trailer is an 18' steel deck with a 5x2 tube frame and it weighs 2,200#. So I wouldn't just go out and get a car hauler because they might be heavier than what you want.

Something like this:
http://i.ebayimg.com/10/!BkBykbgBWk~$(KGrHqIOKjQEsmnWIpOKBLV3R-3pVw~~_12.JPG

You want brakes, certainly. And you want to get it loaded exactly right. If I had to pick, I would get the sway control first and then the equalizer hitch if I needed it. But you will only have 500# of tongue weight so I don't think you'll need it--if you make sure you only have that. It would be a crutch in your case. The friction-type sway control is awesome--especially since a Ranger isn't very stiff and can move around some.

And, of course, brakes. An inertial-type controler, not a cheap time-delay thing. The Prodigy is my favorite, but it's the only modern one that I've had.

otherwise, I think your truck will be fine for that job, as is.

[jfisher]

Thanks guys, I'm definitely not going with a different truck at this point, and it doesn't sound like I need much at all to make this work. Thanks for the help!

[tanbuddy]

i would keep the stock sized tires if i was gonna tow that much weight. It will help with the gearing and the braking

[Will]

The stock size, certainly. But getting some D or even E rated tires that will hold 50psi will do a lot toward making it feel more solid back there. P-rated tires are meant to ride nicely and I don't like them on a truck. An LT tire is more heavily constructed and keeps its shape with a load on it.

[Tractorman]

The stock size, certainly. But getting some D or even E rated tires that will hold 50psi will do a lot toward making it feel more solid back there. P-rated tires are meant to ride nicely and I don't like them on a truck. An LT tire is more heavily constructed and keeps its shape with a load on it.

It's going to ride like a lumber wagon. And with the right amount of tongue weight, or a WD hitch, there won't be that much extra weight on the tires. Also, with the heavier tires, his gas mileage will suffer. I already had horrible MPG's when I was hauling my Cobra and stuff back.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It's going to ride like a lumber wagon. And with the right amount of tongue weight, or a WD hitch, there won't be that much extra weight on the tires. Also, with the heavier tires, his gas mileage will suffer. I already had horrible MPG's when I was hauling my Cobra and stuff back.
I ran some LT tires on my Ranger. I can't remember the load rating on 'em but they were rated for something like 55 lbs of air, but the Ranger wasn't heavy enough for that much. They rode decent with 40-45 in 'em though, and I'd run 30-35 in the winter. I also beefed up my rear leaf springs. Never had a problem with a rough ride. (My boss's '89 F-350 on the other hand, even loaded down it felt like the rear axle was welded to the frame...)

Heavier tires will not kill off fuel economy all that bad. Lightly loaded (2-500lbs) in my Ranger with 'em, I was still racking up 18/19 mpg around town and mid 20's highway. Loaded down I was more around 16 and 20. Towing a BII on a dolly I was 14-16.

5-ply P tires in an aggressive AT pattern and lightly loaded I was hitting 20-22 around town. Highway was upper 20's and once I managed to hit 31 on the highway (50# tools and a tonneau cover, nothin more).

[Will]

It's going to ride like a lumber wagon. And with the right amount of tongue weight, or a WD hitch, there won't be that much extra weight on the tires. Also, with the heavier tires, his gas mileage will suffer. I already had horrible MPG's when I was hauling my Cobra and stuff back.

First, I've done it and they don't ride bad. They are better because the sidewall is stiffer and the rear doesn't squirrel around.

Next, a WD hitch isn't safe if you don't need it. It unloads the rear tires of the truck. It can screw with the anti-lock brakes and some owner's manuals tell you not to use it. It's great if you are unloading the front axle. A gooseneck trailer is better for that though. For those who don't know what an equalizer does--it tries to close the bottom of the truck and trailer together like a jack-knife, with the hitch being the hinge. It directly unloads the rear tires of the truck because they are close to the hinge. If the rear tires don't need to be unloaded, then it isn't safe or proper to unload them.

That's why I recommended a sway control device as a solution for an unstable feeling trailer. A sway control is a friction device that resists a pivot motion of the hitch. It really helps to keep the trailer in a straight line behind the truck. These are generally included on equalizer setups, but are easily added to a trailer that doesn't have an equalizer. A trailer with 10-15% of tongue-weight, and that doesn't have an unusual amount of mass behind the trailer axle doesn't need it. Travel trailers are built in an unregulated industry--they claim self regulated. The fact is, these devices are for crutching improper tow setups. You don't see stuff like this on commercial trucks.

Set your truck up correctly and have zero issues. That's the bottom line.

[Tractorman]

First, I've done it and they don't ride bad. They are better because the sidewall is stiffer and the rear doesn't squirrel around.

Next, a WD hitch isn't safe if you don't need it. It unloads the rear tires of the truck. It can screw with the anti-lock brakes and some owner's manuals tell you not to use it. It's great if you are unloading the front axle. A gooseneck trailer is better for that though. For those who don't know what an equalizer does--it tries to close the bottom of the truck and trailer together like a jack-knife, with the hitch being the hinge. It directly unloads the rear tires of the truck because they are close to the hinge. If the rear tires don't need to be unloaded, then it isn't safe or proper to unload them.

That's why I recommended a sway control device as a solution for an unstable feeling trailer. A sway control is a friction device that resists a pivot motion of the hitch. It really helps to keep the trailer in a straight line behind the truck. These are generally included on equalizer setups, but are easily added to a trailer that doesn't have an equalizer. A trailer with 10-15% of tongue-weight, and that doesn't have an unusual amount of mass behind the trailer axle doesn't need it. Travel trailers are built in an unregulated industry--they claim self regulated. The fact is, these devices are for crutching improper tow setups. You don't see stuff like this on commercial trucks.

Set your truck up correctly and have zero issues. That's the bottom line.

I don't know why people here think you need E tires on such a small truck. There's so little weight back there to begin with, the rear axle is only rated for what, 2700 pounds to begin with? Stock "P" rated tires are for 2200 pounds a piece. I don't see having 12000 pounds of tire capacity for a truck that max gross is at 5700 pounds or so.

Wrong on the WD hitch.

It only transfers as much weight as the USER sets it up. And with a normal bumper pull, the more tongue weight, the less weight over the front tires due to the change in leverage. A WD does what the name says, distributes the weight, and if properly used, with allow the truck to be loaded evenly across the front and rear truck axles.

Sway control, ESPECIALLY the kind you say, are more of a band aid than a WD hitch.

[Will]

You don't want to load the truck evenly over the front axle. The front axle, with the truck empty, is near its load capacity. Go weigh your truck. You will find that the front weighs around 2,500# empty. It's about a 2,750# axle--same as the rear. The rear of the truck is 1,100# empty, about. The payload is designed to be carried almost entirely by the rear axle. This is true for any truck. Look at a straight truck, school bus, motorhome from the side and you will see that the rear axle is centered under the cargo area. A WD hitch is to crutch up a passenger vehicle pulling too much trailer.

The sway control I described has nothing to do with trailer loading. I used one on my 2,500# Casita because the air blast from trucks and uneven roads would knock it around. An $80 friction sway control stops that. The rear of the truck isn't sagging, throwing the unloaded front out of alignment and causing darty steering. You don't need $500 worth of hitch when your not overloading your vehicle. Those things were designed for a squishy old station wagon pulling an Airstream. I pull a 10,000# pintle trailer with my pickup and it's not overloaded and it has no problems with control--and it's got probably 2,000# of tongue weight because the machines I put on it don't have enough room to ride in an ideal spot.

I'm saying load the trailer correctly and you're truck is not going to have trouble with a 4,500# trailer and you shouldn't need anything special. Any sway you get will be because the tongue weight is excessive so you have to watch loading. It costs $8 to wiegh your truck at a truckstop--just bring a broom stick to push the button when you drive onto the scale or they won't know you are out there.

[Tractorman]

You don't want to load the truck evenly over the front axle. The front axle, with the truck empty, is near its load capacity. Go weigh your truck. You will find that the front weighs around 2,500# empty. It's about a 2,750# axle--same as the rear. The rear of the truck is 1,100# empty, about. The payload is designed to be carried almost entirely by the rear axle. This is true for any truck. Look at a straight truck, school bus, motorhome from the side and you will see that the rear axle is centered under the cargo area. A WD hitch is to crutch up a passenger vehicle pulling too much trailer.

The sway control I described has nothing to do with trailer loading. I used one on my 2,500# Casita because the air blast from trucks and uneven roads would knock it around. An $80 friction sway control stops that. The rear of the truck isn't sagging, throwing the unloaded front out of alignment and causing darty steering. You don't need $500 worth of hitch when your not overloading your vehicle. Those things were designed for a squishy old station wagon pulling an Airstream. I pull a 10,000# pintle trailer with my pickup and it's not overloaded and it has no problems with control--and it's got probably 2,000# of tongue weight because the machines I put on it don't have enough room to ride in an ideal spot.

I'm saying load the trailer correctly and you're truck is not going to have trouble with a 4,500# trailer and you shouldn't need anything special. Any sway you get will be because the tongue weight is excessive so you have to watch loading. It costs $8 to wiegh your truck at a truckstop--just bring a broom stick to push the button when you drive onto the scale or they won't know you are out there.

Yes, the front axle is close to max when even empty. But as I said, when you put weight onto the tongue, it lifts the front of the truck, and it gets moved to the back wheels due to leverage.

The WD hitch maintains the weight on the front. The way it also works that some of the weight carrying gets transferred back to the trailer.

I did weigh my truck with the WD setup, and had close to the same front axle weight loaded and unloaded.

Those old wagons you talk about were the only things back in the day that could haul trailers. Trucks weren't nearly as heavy duty or as popular as they are today.