Removing Driveshaft


willmasse

15+ Year Member

Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
16
Points
3,101
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
Hey all, im trying to drop my transmission to replace a leaking slave cylinder. Unfortunately I cant get any of the bolts on the drive shaft to budge. I can't see why not, other than they are rusty. Has anyone had troubles with these bolts? Is there some secret to removing them?
 
more leverage. put it in gear, set the brake, put your 12 12 wrench on it and then put a 13 on the open end of the 12 and double wrench it.
 
I just lock the brakes/put it in gear. Throw a 12 point on it where I can get my foot on it and just push it. Works everytime. Just use your heel. I've encountered some seriously tight bolts, nothing has defeated my size 11 yet.
 
tried two boots to the wrench...no dice
 
soak em in penetratiing oil if that dont work break out teh torch
 
mn_smokeater said:
soak em in penetratiing oil
Click to expand...

I agree with this part to start with! Then put the wrench on real good & put a hollow pipe at least a foot or two long on the end of the wrench for leverage, grab hold of something & use your foot to push it. They seem to always be a b**ch to get undone & you may hurt yourself or pull a muscle at some point, but it will work! :icon_cheers:
 
Those bolts were so small, I was afraid that they may round off when I did my clutch. The trick that I used was WD-40 and a 6-point socket. I don't use 12-points because they round off corners more often.
 
would i be able to remove the rear driveshaft in the middle, then remove the transfer case with the first half of the driveshaft still attached
 
LearjetMinako said:
Those bolts were so small, I was afraid that they may round off when I did my clutch. The trick that I used was WD-40 and a 6-point socket. I don't use 12-points because they round off corners more often.
Click to expand...

Thats odd since the drive shaft bolts are 12 point instead of hex heads.
 
put a wrench on it then your foot on the wrench ive dont it every time i drop mine. and i did it 8 times in one day one saturday lol
 
the real key is HEAT even a little butane torch for a minute a bolt, will come right out. Ford used a decent loctite on those things and heat will get them right out... I just got a propane torch, much faster but have used a butane torch on several...
 
The factory 12-point driveshaft bolts are coated with pre-applied factory loctite

Heating things coated with loctite to 400degF kills the loctite bond.

400degF has NO effect on the strength of the steel, but can FRY nearby parts like the pinion seal the pinion seal dust shield (the plastic piece on the back of the pinion flange)
Grease boots on the U-joint cups, etc...

So be CAREFUL with where you apply that heat.

Personally I wire brush the threads CLEAN and apply Neverseeze to
the threads before reassembly and I've still had a few "stick", so I am
mystified why Ford thought loctite was needed.

There ARE six point bolts... the cap screws on the yoke straps where
the two halves of a two piece driveshaft joint at the Halfmoon yoke
just behind the center support bearing.

What scared the hell out of me was seeing the printed torque spec on
those tiny bolts. (5/16" heads) where the early manuals listed it as 60-ish ft/lb...

it should have been 60-ish INCH/lbs

AD
 
AllanD said:
Personally I wire brush the threads CLEAN and apply Neverseeze to
the threads before reassembly and I've still had a few "stick", so I am
mystified why Ford thought loctite was needed.

AD
Click to expand...

Same reason they think the oil filter needs to be torqued to 100 ft/lbs. Make it hard to take apart :icon_welder:
 
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