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Making consoles and aux. fuse boxes...


Buggyman

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1998
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Hey folks,

I have a 98' Ranger, 4x4, manual, 2-door ext'd cab and I am looking at over hauling my interior and current wiring. I am a volunteer firefighter/EMT in my area and our department allows us to run emergent with our personal vehicles to calls. I currently have two halogen alternating red lights (very bright) that are 50 watts each in my rear window, strobes in side windows, a LED stick in the front window and a Galls siren. Currently, I was able to find a few spare sockets in my fuse box; one was controlled by the ignition and the others were hard wired. I have my siren running directly off the battery (pulls allot of amps) and attached with a relay to the ignition so that it can only be ran with the key on. The rest of the lights are ran to the constant voltage slots in the fuse box.

I am looking to find a better way to rig everything. I want to build a new fuse box just for all the accessories with slots that are switched by the ignition and others that are always hot. Anyone have any ideas on how this could be done? Any pictures?


I have also read a few posts on here were some people built their own counsels. I am looking to make one and install it into my roof. Anyone have any pictures or advice on how to fab one up? I do have access to a sheet metal brake and a welder.

Lastly, is it possible to overload my electrical system? I have put a over sized alternator and battery in, but I am powering everything I have listed plus a 150 watt power inverter, a spot light charger, and I plan to add fog lights in the future.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 


yyc_tbird_sc

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Firefighter
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Calgary, Alberta
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Ford
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Manual
I've helped to install a few emergency light systems, and actually have a PA/Airhorn and a set of corner strobes in my tbird right now for show.

I would run an 8gauge cable to a location where you can mount a 70-80amp relay, and an external fuse block. The relay will be powered from the battery and activated from an ignition source...this way you will not overdraw from existing wiring. Run your lights from your secondary fuse block on separate circuits, this way if one burns up it will blow the fuse and the rest will continue to work....same goes for the accessories.

I seriously doubt that you're going to "overload" your electrical system, but if you'd like....install a quality (ie autometer or dakota digital) voltmeter so you can keep an eye on system voltages.

As for consoles...I wish I could help there, but I'm sure there are a few examples around here.

PS...please enable the park disable on the siren. It really is annoying to be on scene and have some guys siren still blaring away while the vehicle isn't moving.
 

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