Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


DeanMLFlame

DeanMLFlame

15+ Year Member

Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
168
Points
3,101
City
Tumwater, WA
Vehicle Year
1984, 1991
Transmission
Automatic
Sorry about not continuing on with the last post, i had a change of plans, but here are the new ones. Project should take 1 1/2 years at the most!

0.030" over, hyper pistons, ported heads and gasket matched intake, balanced, XE256H Comp Cam or Lunati Street Avenger (to be decided) 600cfm carb with 1" 4 hole spacer, 10.5:1 compression, Summit Stage 1 intake, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, ARP fasteners everywhere (1/2 are the pro series) headers, 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe.

Block going to machinist this Monday for deluxe degrease + bore&hone. Clevite H-series bearing.
1972 FORD 302
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)

C9TE HEADS Getting 7/16" screw-in studs, edelbrock springs and retainers, forged valve locks and guide plates
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)

FORD RED PAINT
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)

SMOOTHING OUT THE HEADS:icon_thumby: Only removing the cast markings! Port & Polish later
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)

Going with Street Fighter C-4
 
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started smoothing the other cylinder head...My bottom end parts are in seattle and portland right now and i'm right in the middle of them both. Easily could've been delivered today but it's UPS.
 
Parts In and Out

Got my first order of parts from UPS this morning.
Hyper Pistons
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolts
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


ARP Main Studs
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


Melling Hi-Vol Oil pump
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


And Fel-Pro Full Gasket Set.
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


Block, crank and pistons sent to machine shop today...Should be done on the 21st :icon_thumby:
 
I haven't got the truck yet...i'll look for one after i get the transmission...i don't have much $$$
 
Got engine back

got engine back on friday.

getting ready for paint
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


paint is on...don't worry it's Ford Red, not chevy.
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


crank had been balanced and polished
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


New pistons put on stock rods with ARP wave-loc bolts
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


Next step is file fitting the rings and putting the pistons in!

Assembling the bottom end
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)
 
Looks good! Did you resize the rods after putting in the new studs?
 
If you havent gone any farther on the heads, Id stop if I were you.

The C9TE castings are junk. And you will be no where around 10.5:1 with flat tops and these heads.

69cc chambers, and an early port design, plus you dont have hardened seats and press in studs.

Get a set of E7's at least, the ports are better and easier to port, Hardened seats, you can run a pedestal type setup which is plenty stout for your setup and way more affordable.

If I were you, I look out for a set of GT40's, I know Pick-A-Part has 5.0 explorers every now and then, you can get them cheap, especially right now. It is worth it.

Just a word of advice from somebody thats been there...
 
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to kyle M...my machinist did resize them after the new bolts were put in and balanced both ends of the rod.

to RacinN...I looked up the C9TE heads and they have 58cc chambers. my pistons have a small 3cc dome. Actual compression should end up at 10.3:1 because of 0.047" gaskets. I won't have hardened seats but i will have ARP 7/16 screw-in studs. i'm going all out on the hardware.
 
The heads that were 58cc's were the C9AE castings.

The C9TE castings are the truck castings, and they are 69cc open chambers According to the interchange book, however, I have read some places that they got the same chamber as the 351w heads, which is closer to 63, which I have had...

Just for shits, you should post a pic of the chamber side of the head.

7/16" rocker studs are overkill, 3/8"s would be plenty strong, plus you have buy guideplates and hardened pushrods. A pedestal setup is bolt down, and will take plenty of abuse. My GT40 setup with 1.7 cobras took many 7000 RPM hits with no sweat.

Also overlooking hardened seats is not a good idea, sunken valves kill flow, kill compression, and kill your valvetrain.

Just pointing out where you can save some money, and have a better outcome, thats all.
 
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it's good that you're giving a little more information.

i think i'm starting to go with what you said about the chambers, these aren't heart shaped.
Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


as for the studs...there's no difference in price between a 3/8" and 7/16" and only $10 in rocker arms. i might use guideplates(only turning 5200 to 5500 max RPM) 5/16" trick flow pushrods...I mainly building this engine to be as strong as possible...for now!
 
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With studs, you have to run guideplates unless you have rail type rockers. Rail type are less stable than Pedestal type rockers.

Here is an example (be it a bad one, only one i could find on google) of a 58cc chamber. These were found on the 302 car engines.

http://www.topham.kicks-ass.net/gal....DownloadItem&g2_itemId=447&g2_serialNumber=1

You can tell that your truck heads are significantly bigger. They share the same chamber of the C9/D0 heads, but werent decked as far from the factory, that is where the 69cc chamber came from.

Hard to tell but see the difference in the chamber between these D0OE 351w chambers and yours, look in the squish area.

https://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/a...2d1227116080-351w-heads-question-p5040026.jpg
 
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well hell...i was really hoping to have mid 10's in compression. but now i have 9.02:1 Well don't have to worry about detonation and i can saftely a supercharger on low boost later on if i want
 
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