help needed

Grey_04 · Dec 5, 2007

i have a 95 2.3 l and i just changed plugs now the blasted check engine light came on . i didn't take the intake off to change plugs. i just weseles my way in with swivels and a stubby ratchet. i do not have a scanner so any help would be welcomed...thanks in advance..

RobbieD · Dec 5, 2007

Might have unknowingly unplugged a sensor or something; check all the wiring plugs and vac lines.

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 5, 2007

pull the codes

Really need to pull the codes, could be something completely unrelated to your plug change. Maybe in the handling of the plug wires one of them came apart/is damaged and causing the code. Does the engine seem to be running just fine as before the plug change?

T.

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 5, 2007

white 95 said:
I do not have a scanner so any help would be welcomed...thanks in advance..

You don't need a reader/scanner to pull the codes.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Also, many autoparts stores will pull the codes for you free of charge.
Be advised, your truck is right on the hump, could be OBDII or the older OBDI. You'll have to take a closer look at the truck to know for sure. My 1995 is OBDII.

T.

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 5, 2007

MAKG info...

Some facts from Mike in earlier post...

"OBD-II was first required in 1996. But at least quite a few (maybe all) 1995 RBVs have it. The easiest way to tell is to locate the diagnostic connector. For OBD-II, it's under the steering wheel (or near there) on every vehicle. For OBD-I, RBVs put it somewhere in the engine compartment, generally somewhere inside the passenger side fender (on later OBD-Is, it's attached to the power distribution box).
"

T.

Grey_04 · Dec 5, 2007

i just pulled the plugs back out and checked the gap and put new plug wires on this time. the old ones had 1995 motorcraft on the wires. could these be the orignal wires? the truck has 120,218 on the clock. pulled both battery cables to reset the comp ,they were off for about an hour should have cleared anything? started it up every thing was fine untill i pulled out of the garage i got on it and pow the check engine light came back on

any more thoughts? have to try to pull the codes tomorow maybe if i get the tool..

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

wires

That's okay, those original wires needed to be replaced anyhow. Maybe you lost a coil after the spark plug change? You are on the right track, see what the codes look like and you've already taken a second look at the plugs.

Yes, disconnecting the batt will clear the codes out on it, but apparently whatever caused the original CEL is still there. Trying to think what else could have been disturbed during your plug changeout, but coming up with nothing. Is the PCV valve in it's hole?

By the way, your timing belt is about due if it's the original. It could last another 50K or it could go tomorrow. An older belt in poor condition can affect performance as well.

Good luck on finding the cause of the CEL, remember those codes can lead you in some long, ugly circles of replacing parts ($) so, don't get too crazy without some additional diagnostics if needed.

Post what you find and one of these geniuses will help you out with the diagnostics part.

T.

Grey_04 · Dec 6, 2007

i pulled the codes today and it's a miss fire on number 4 cyl and some air thing code 113 i think it was. any how i put 2 "new" plugs in number 4 cyl again ,same code. so i then put 2 diffrent plug wires on it and ,same code. i'm leaning towords a bad coil pack. my question now is since i have two coil packs 1 works the intake side and 1 works the exhost side would you sugest swiching coil packs because in my honest option the exhost is just for emisions and try that and see if it runs any better then buy the coil pack when pay day gets here or what would you sugest?

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

P0113 says - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit high input.

I'd work this code first if it doesn't sound like it's actually misfiring.
Did you lose a ground on the sensor?

T.

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

white 95 said:
would you sugest swiching coil packs...and see if it runs any better then buy the coil pack when pay day gets here or what would you sugest?

Sure...you could make the swap on the coils and see if the problem changes or disappears. They are identical parts and you could easily test them as well if you wanted.
You did use some dielectric grease on these ignition wire connections right?

T.

Grey_04 · Dec 6, 2007

that's the code..i have driven the truck down the road it's acting like a v8 with a missing plug wire ..........no power and missing like h!@l.. were is this sensor? is it on the intake tube? thats the only thing that i removed fron the truck when i did the plugs unless i bumped something
thanks for your help happy ranger guy, your a life savor...bill

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

IAT should be in the air cleaner-to-throttle body supply tube. Some of the older ones have it actually mounted to the upper intake manifold. Should be couple wires and have resistance reading of 10-60 kohms depending on the temp.

T.

Grey_04 · Dec 6, 2007

i've noticed two sensors is there anyway to test them without an komes meter?

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

white 95 said:
that's the code..i have driven the truck down the road it's acting like a v8 with a missing plug wire ..........no power and missing like h!@l..

Are you absolutely sure you don't have couple ignition wires crossed up? There are some diagrams out there that are incorrect. Can't remember if it was a Chilton's or Hayes but I've seen at least one floating around that shows the wrong hookup. It's always better to go one for one with the plug wires.

Can refer to this for correct connections to double/triple check.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/FiringOrder.html

T.

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY · Dec 6, 2007

white 95 said:
i've noticed two sensors is there anyway to test them without an komes meter?

Sure...another way is to change them out.

If you have a scanner tool you can actually read a temperature readout which comes from the sensor. But, that still doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad as it could be wiring/connection/computer.

T.

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