My F-150 Dilemma...

Ok, I know that at least a few of ya'll either have an F-150 or did have one... and I'd like some input...

I have a '95 F-150 with a 4.9L and 5-speed. It's a 4x4 with a manual t-case. I just recently converted it to manual front hubs because the auto hubs didn't work at all (I found out much to my dismay as I got stuck in my own yard). It also has 3.08 gears....

The truck is mainly a work truck (ladder rack, side toolboxes), although my work duties often have me leaving the pavement with it, at some point it may get a 2" or 4" suspension lift to help with that, but because of funds I see a lift kit as low priority, I can get by without it for now.

Now, with hunting season fast approaching, I either need to get my F-150 ready to go, or I need to get my choptop ready to go. I'm leaning towards taking care of the F-150 first so I have more bed space to bring home the goods. My problem is that the roads up where we hunt are dirt, get plowed rarely, and see frequent travel... which naturally results in a lot of ice. Last year proved to be pretty bad up there, we used to take dad's dump truck, an F-350 dually with a really good trac-lock, (because the only other option was my 2wd Ranger until last year). There's been a couple years where even with all four digging in the back, we had trouble getting around, and so did most of the 4x4 pickups people drove up there.

Last year I took my choptop up there... and had a blast. With the hubs locked in and all four big 33's getting power (locked front and rear), I was able to go anywhere I pointed the truck. It was loud, ugly, and a lil chilly to drive (no top yet), but I wasn't afraid to take it places that other people gave up trying to get to.

I'm not expecting that kind of performance from the F-150, but I also don't want to be one of those that can't get anywhere. I'm looking at getting some better tires than what I have on the truck and I'm thinking of getting a locker to help me get around. I had someone telling me that 31" tires do not fit on a stock F-150 though without rubbing, can anyone verify or refute this? I'd like to run 31's if I could...

Also, with how I'm using the truck, which axle would be the better one to stick a locker in? My intention was to use a lock-right or similar. I had someone telling me that locking axles on an F-150 is not a good idea though...

Any other suggestions for things I should think of doing? I already got one front tow hook and a class 4 rear hitch on the truck...

I have 31's on my 95 F150 and have no problems rubbing. Full lock doesn't rub the radius arms, fender and bumper have plenty of clearance all around. The PO did put heavier springs in it but that can't have lifted it more than an inch.

milje said:

I have 31's on my 95 F150 and have no problems rubbing. Full lock doesn't rub the radius arms, fender and bumper have plenty of clearance all around. The PO did put heavier springs in it but that can't have lifted it more than an inch.

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That seems to be the consensus so far, thanks milje.

Now, what axle to lock... lol

lil_Blue_Ford said:

That seems to be the consensus so far, thanks milje.

Now, what axle to lock... lol

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I'd go rear, AFAIK it's a 31 spline 8.8, should be able to handle plenty of abuse. I'm considering getting a locker for mine, but want to regear first. The front D44 could probably handle a locker if you run 760X u-joints, I don't know about that neckdown though, seems that might be the weak point.


I wonder if they make aftermarket shafts for the TTB D44?

If it were me I would just go with a good set of tires, a good set of tire chains, throw a front hitch on it and get a good winch. If you lock it id want the winch just in case you go to far and get stuck anyway.

milje said:

I'd go rear, AFAIK it's a 31 spline 8.8, should be able to handle plenty of abuse. I'm considering getting a locker for mine, but want to regear first. The front D44 could probably handle a locker if you run 760X u-joints, I don't know about that neckdown though, seems that might be the weak point.


I wonder if they make aftermarket shafts for the TTB D44?

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What gears you want to run? I'm going to regear at some point, but that's kinda why I was thinking of using a lockright or similar so if I don't get the gears done before winter, I can still throw the locker in.

I woulda thought that the D-44 would handle a locker and 31's, my locked D-28 never really gave me problems with 31's, it was only when I had 33's on it that there was a big problem. But then again this is the first fullsize I've owned and my dad doesn't have much experience with fullsize 4x4's either. (he ran 33's on an open D-44 straight axle for years with no problems but that's the extent of his knowledge).

I'm pretty sure they do make aftermarket shafts for the TTB D-44. I know they make 'em for the TTB D-35, and I spoke with a manufacturer last year about alloy shafts for a D-28 (I was curious), they said they made 'em (I'd have to go looking to find out what company it was).

Cheaplabor said:

If it were me I would just go with a good set of tires, a good set of tire chains, throw a front hitch on it and get a good winch. If you lock it id want the winch just in case you go to far and get stuck anyway.

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I intend to get a good set of tires (or at least a decent set) before winter. Not sure if I want to go to a mud tire or just get an aggressive AT (something borderline mud print). The only time I was impressed by a sort of mud type pattern on hardpack snow an ice was in my choptop with both axles locked. In my Ranger I spent more time spinning mud tires than going places in the winter but a good AT got me places.

I'll prolly get tire chains if I get 31's, right now I have a good set for 235's cuz that's what I ran on my Ranger and the BII I sold.

I have a winch... but it prolly woln't be mounted in time.

I'm not really worried about going too far and having to winch myself out, I got adventurous with my choptop cuz I knew it would make it everywhere I took it (I had the ground clearance an good tires) and I didn't stray off the beaten path (note I said path not road, lol). I know the F-150 woln't make it that far (well, it might, but I certainly wouldn't be able to turn it around where I did the choptop and backing out would be more fun than I'd like). The F-150 will stick to the roads and just pulling off the side enough for people to get past. I've been all over the place up there in different vehicles, I know what I should be able to make an what wouldn't be a bright idea.

It's just that to get to one of my favorite spots (and usually the one I'm in opening day), I have one long hill to climb with two switchbacks going up, and one at the bottom (so you can't get a run to get started). I've seen a lot of normal 4x4's struggle with that when it gets bad, and our dump truck struggled a bit with good tires and a good l/s when it was bad. My choptop drove up it like it was flat dry pavement. That gets you to a lower parking area. But since dad has trouble walking far, I like to take him up on top the hill, which involves a hill climb with a winding erosion mark. My Ranger has only made it up there in dry weather or with mud tires and V-bar chains.

I want to run 4.56 in mine. I have a new set of meats coming and don't think my tranny will like the 3.55's very much. Not sure what kind of locker I want, probably a lockright.

4.56! what size tires you plannin on runnin? 44's? lol

I got 3.08's and I'm thinkin of goin to 3.55's, thinking that might be the right gear ratio for 31's and what I'm doin, but I dunno. I am fairly certain though that 4.10s will be too much gear for my setup an I'll just be wastin gas with 'em. My truck has struggled a lil pullin stuff, but even with the 3.08's it's done the job so far.

Most of the time I'll be running around with just a couple hundred pounds in tools an maybe another hundred into the ladder rack and toolboxes. But it's gonna see some hauling in the bed from time to time and it's gonna draw towing duty (light duty, under 5-6k).

If you want, I have an 8.8 rear from a 90 F150 that already has 3.55s in it that I'd sale for $100 complete. It would save you from having to buy gears and setup etc. I'm about 1.5 hrs from you.

1badexplorer said:

If you want, I have an 8.8 rear from a 90 F150 that already has 3.55s in it that I'd sale for $100 complete. It would save you from having to buy gears and setup etc. I'm about 1.5 hrs from you.

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I've been trying to figure out the best way to approach things... been thinking of looking for someone selling an F-150 with a bad frame or somethin an just stripping off what I want an giving the rest to a family friend that I got some stuff stored at (a pile of axles and my 86 BII, lol)

you can run 33's on that truck no problems, just shim out your front bumper a bit and pull off that rubber valance thats on the bottom of your bumper. you have an awesome motor/tranny combo for the most part but gears you are for sure lacking. if your going to pay the expense of gearing probably should jump up to 4.10s if you want to run 33's and use the truck for work and towing. I would also not put a locker in the rear if you tow at all with this truck. get a real good quality limited slip or an Elocker that is an LS when unlocked and of course locked when you engage. leave the front open being that you want to be able to use 4wd on the road in winter time.

good luck

kemicalburns said:

you can run 33's on that truck no problems, just shim out your front bumper a bit and pull off that rubber valance thats on the bottom of your bumper. you have an awesome motor/tranny combo for the most part but gears you are for sure lacking. if your going to pay the expense of gearing probably should jump up to 4.10s if you want to run 33's and use the truck for work and towing. I would also not put a locker in the rear if you tow at all with this truck. get a real good quality limited slip or an Elocker that is an LS when unlocked and of course locked when you engage. leave the front open being that you want to be able to use 4wd on the road in winter time.

good luck

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I have no intention of running 33's, I have no need for 33's on the truck and the extra expense involved in buying tires. 31's are the biggest I planned on running. (I don't want to have one of those work trucks that the side tool boxes are so high off the ground that you have to carry a stepladder to find anything in 'em either).

As far as regearing goes, I just intend on getting the rear axle an front pig out of another F-150, regear on the cheap. Heavy duty towing will be done with the other truck (see my other thread on my decision to make).

Why the recommendation not to put a locker in the rear if I intend to tow with it? (I'm one of those people who likes an explaination as to why or why not). I'd rather not spend the money to buy a limited slip or E-locker and go through the hassle of installing it and resetting my gears if I can avoid it, I've already sunk a good bit of money into fixing the truck and there's still more to fix, plus I don't trust myself with setting up the gears on something that will see highway time.

My choptop has a locked front, I usually just left only one hub locked in during the winter on the street and would only lock the other if the going got tough... but I'm not sure it's fair to compare how that truck handled to a fullsize truck.

well a locker in the rear will be real hard on the tires when towing not to mention when you accelerate will make the vehicle surge funny. no as for the front being locked i have heard people doing as you mentioned by unlocking 1 hub and it may work but if your driving at any speed 25+ i would think it could be questionable how it performs.

no if your only going to run 31's and this is a work try why go thru the trouble of any of this. i can understand moving up the 3.55' which i think is cheap being that you just swap the rear and front center section. if you grab the right rear end most come with a LS already in them. front LS are not as common but are around so perhaps keeping an eye out for one of them. I understand where your coming from regarding the height issue but since your not lifting the truck the 33's wont had hardly any height to the bed rails. its not llike your adding a 4" lift and then 33's get my point.

kemicalburns said:

well a locker in the rear will be real hard on the tires when towing not to mention when you accelerate will make the vehicle surge funny. no as for the front being locked i have heard people doing as you mentioned by unlocking 1 hub and it may work but if your driving at any speed 25+ i would think it could be questionable how it performs.

no if your only going to run 31's and this is a work try why go thru the trouble of any of this. i can understand moving up the 3.55' which i think is cheap being that you just swap the rear and front center section. if you grab the right rear end most come with a LS already in them. front LS are not as common but are around so perhaps keeping an eye out for one of them. I understand where your coming from regarding the height issue but since your not lifting the truck the 33's wont had hardly any height to the bed rails. its not llike your adding a 4" lift and then 33's get my point.

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Ok.

Why I'm going through the trouble of any of this is because there have been a number of times where I've had to take my truck into someone's yard. I'd like to have the traction to get in and out without risking tearing up the yard. And so that I have the traction to get around when I go up the mountains hunting in the winter.

I also wouldn't even consider going to 33's without at least a 2" lift, I've gotten pretty off-camber already getting in and out of jobs and wouldn't want the rubbing.

You'll have no problems with a rear locker while towing. You probably won't notice it. The one thing you do want to keep in mind though is that in turns at low speeds you are using only one axle shaft to push the truck. You can snap it.

The front can be locked as well. That does take a little getting used to. Every time you push the accelerator or let off on snow with any amount of wheels turned, it's going to wrestle you for control of the truck. If you thoroughly understand what it is doing, you will be just fine. What it's doing is unlocking the faster tire. You have to drive very gently. Honestly, you will do fine in 2wd most of the time and don't have any reason to just be driving in 4wd. If it's 17" of snow and you need 4wd, you won't notice the locker because it's going to be working. And you will love it. I'm locking the front of my crewcab when I get the axle in, no question about it. The times I need 4wd in the winter, I don't want to mess around. It's usually up the yard or in a field or on unplowed roads. You don't need 4wd on ice or plowed roads.