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View Full Version : d35 into a 2wd


GIJoe4500
08-13-2007, 07:25 PM
Are there any real complications in swapping a d35 (91 Explorer) into a 1988 2wd Ranger? Or is it really all a bolt in? I know the engine crossmember will be a problem.. I just don't know if there will be any more problems I'd run into.

SuperRob
08-13-2007, 09:00 PM
IF only we still had the other database, you'd be able to search out the answer to this as its been discussed a few times recently.

There is a LOT of work involved in turning a 2WD into a 4WD and the general concensus is that its a better idea to sell the 2WD ranger, and just buy a 4WD ranger. Then if you want the Dana 35 in it instead of a Dana 28 its a pretty simple bolt in swap. Cant remember who, but I believe its either Johnny or Will that did the last technical write up on it. Maybe PM them to see if they can help you if they dont spot this thread.

4x4junkie
08-13-2007, 09:00 PM
The crossmember is a real PITA, but that would be all.
Once the 4x4 crossmember is in place, everything should bolt right up.

GIJoe4500
08-13-2007, 09:40 PM
Would I be able to maybe build another cross member further up the frame (maybe a welded on bumper or something), then just completely cut out the engine cross member?

Capt Jay
08-13-2007, 09:51 PM
Don't do it.
Buy a 4x4.

GIJoe4500
08-13-2007, 10:12 PM
I'm not exactly made of money... Its not as easy as everyone says it is to just "buy a 4x4." The only reason I'm asking is because I can get the d35 TTB for dirt cheap, and I already have the truck.

So... If I were to completely remove the 2wd crossmember, and weld on a strong bumper to the front of the frame, would I be able to bolt on the D35 TTB stuff? Or do I HAVE to have the 4x4 crossmember?

If you are just going to tell me to buy a 4x4, please, don't reply to this thread...

JohnnyU
08-13-2007, 10:25 PM
The TTB "Stuff" bolts to the crossmember. The 2wd and 4wd cross members are different so the 4wd brackets won't bolt up correctly. This is the reason for needing to swap crossmembers.....

GIJoe4500
08-13-2007, 10:29 PM
Ah ok. I didn't know that. Thank you for clarifying instead of just telling me to buy a 4x4. I truly appreciate it.

rotty_rott
08-13-2007, 11:55 PM
I converted my '84 to 4wd about a year ago and i don't think it's really as difficult as everyone makes it out to be. yes the hardest part is getting the engine crossmembers out of both vehicles, but after they are both removed it's a piece of cake from there. it's just a bunch of grinding, torching, drilling and beating to get the crossmembers out and then everything just bolts back together for the most part. i already had the 2wd truck with a fairly fresh motor in it and i got the donor vehicle for $75. I probably have $75 or so in bolts, torch gas, and other odds and ends and another $100 in having a driveshaft lengthened so i've got about $250 in the swap and somewhere in the neighborhood of 16 hours of labor and i couldn't have bought a 4wd for $250 more than what i could sell my truck for. i drove it through the snow, and hauled firewood out of the timber all winter and drive it when i need to haul something during the summer and haven't had any problems and don't really have any complaints other than i wish i had put a l/s in the rear earlier, but i did it a month or so ago, now i'll probably wish i put one in the front as well, but that'll just have to wait. not everyone has the money to sell their truck and buy a 4wd and i think it was well worth the work to save the money i would have spent buying one.

mike

GIJoe4500
08-14-2007, 12:38 AM
Thanks for the encouragement Rotty rott... After removing the crossmembers, how did you get the 4x4 one into the 2wd? Did you bolt it in, or did you weld it in? As much information as you can give me would be WONDERFUL.

rotty_rott
08-14-2007, 01:58 AM
i drilled all the rivet holes out to accept 1/2" bolts and just bolted it back in. i could've rewelded it with short beads to the inside of the frame rails like it was from the factory, but i decided to just bolt it in and keep an eye on it and have yet to have any problems with it. i kept the original 2wd front coil buckets and coils and only have around 1 1/2" height difference between the front and rear, which i plan on leveling out with washer coil spacers when it cools off some. i think the 4wd coil buckets sit a little lower on the frame than the 2wd buckets do and because of this i had to use extensions on the front shock studs to make them reach and give me enough droop. i believe the coil springs are the same for 2wd and 4wd depending on the engine. to get enough room to get the crossmembers out i unbolted the front body mounts under the radiator support and used an old bumper jack between the frame rails to spread them out a little. other than that it was a pretty straight forward swap. i'm not an expert or anything, but i did successfully do this swap without a problem so if you have any questions i'll try to help out as much as i can. i hope this helps.

mike

GIJoe4500
08-14-2007, 10:41 AM
Awesome. Thanks again Rotty Rott.

My only problem now will be finding a 4x4 I can rob the crossmember from. They don't exactly let you take torches and grinders into the local junkyards...which really sucks.. But now that I know all this, my search can start.

BDAB
08-14-2007, 10:46 AM
it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought

85_Ranger4x4
08-14-2007, 11:06 AM
it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought

That is the route I would go as well, it isn't easy but neither is stripping your truck to the frame and then taking the frame apart too.

GIJoe4500
08-15-2007, 12:50 AM
Yea, I know it would be easier with a straight axle. The more and more I read about putting in a d35 the less worthwhile it sounds. Aside from the trac bar and the steering, an EB dana 44 is more of a bolt in than a d28 or d35 is. At least that's the way it seems by what I've read.

BDAB
08-15-2007, 01:42 AM
don't get me wrong, if you had a 4wd already I would recommend staying with the TTB.

but since you are starting from scratch, SAS is the way to go.

TRUNK_MONKEY
08-15-2007, 01:46 AM
it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought

that is what i am doing right now.using leaf sprung wrangler front axle and springs.i have a high pinion d30 with TJ shafts and 410 gears. no idea about TTB axles,but if i want to,there is a huge aftermarket for the lowly D30,from alloy axles to CTM axle u joints,to every kind of locker and locking hubs.and stock parts are a dime a dozen at the local pull n save.
if you want to stay coil,cherokee's and TJ's (coil sprung wranglers) are a great source of d30's.XJ's (cherokees),some came with HP d30 from the factory.i am sure you can adapt over a XJ long arm set up for the front end.mega crazy travel,and plentyful spares.

and FYI
on the crossmember rivets--grind the heads down almost flat (less than 1/8 in) then air chisel them from the side--they pop right off.replace with grade 8 hardware,and you are golden!!

scott

GIJoe4500
08-15-2007, 10:37 AM
If I end up goin' with the SAS, i'll probably use a coil spring/radius arm setup with an Early Bronco axle. I may even go with an Early Bronco d30 to begin with, because its cheaper than the D44s... But who knows.

4x4junkie
08-15-2007, 07:21 PM
The Jeep D30 is a better axle than an EB D30

I wouldn't bother with all the bling alloy stuff ona D30 though, you're almost guaranteed to move the weakest link to the ring & pinion gears.
I'd simply do the Spicer 5-760s and full-circle clips on the stock shafts and be done with it (some of the later 30s already have the 760s stock, you'd just need to put the clips on it).

onewyr
08-30-2007, 09:23 PM
will changing out the crossmembers from a 2wd 95 ranger and the crossmember from a 91 explorer work to convert to 4wd

4x4junkie
09-05-2007, 12:53 AM
will changing out the crossmembers from a 2wd 95 ranger and the crossmember from a 91 explorer work to convert to 4wd

All the frame crossmembers are the same for all years (some later ones are welded in addition to being riveted in however).

dude772
09-05-2007, 05:36 AM
I discussed this on the old board. I have a 90 2wd ranger, and i REALLY wanted a 4x4. So i searched and thought and searched and planned and finally came time to do it.

torched off the ibeam suspension stuff, torched out all the crossmember rivets and torched the weld to the inside of the frame, hammered it to make sure it was all loose...
went and bought a parts 4x4 explorer for $300 then the guy i bought the explorer from gave me a hp dana 44 front axle ... so i had both options ... and being at the point where i could cut apart the explorer in a matter of about an hour i decided to go with the dana 44 for strength and less complications with lifting and front end headaches.

so now i have either a $300 axle and a free explorer, or $300 explorer and free axle.

AllanD
09-11-2007, 10:57 AM
I am always greatly amused by the reply to letters in the various 4x4 magazines
where the reply is always "Buy a 4x4 instead of converting your 2wd"

But somewhere around here I have a 4wheeler magazine where there is one of those replys and literally you turn the page and see an artical about converting a 4x4 to a solid axle....

I've always believed that if you want to do an SAS don't cut up a perfectly good 4x4, but rather do it to a "worthess" 2wd truck:)

Yeah everyone says don't convert a Ranger TIB(2wd) to a TTB(4x4) because it's "so difficult".

I converted my 2wd '87 Ranger into a 4x4 by swapping in a 1993 explorer crossmember and hanging a 1997 D35 under it.

That part of the conversion actually only took about 18hours, but I already had the crossmember loose, I'm an absolute artist with a
cutting torch and I have a friend who's an artist with his MIG welder.

Those who can simply DO.
Those who ask how to do it probably would need to PAY someone else to do it and that goes from difficult to rediculously expensive in less time than it takes you to wolf down a BigMac.

as for the comment that later crossmembers are welded in
rather than riveted?
Actually ALL of the TTB engine crossmembers are BOTH welded and riveted into place.

The number of rivets and ammount of weld varies, but if they didn't weld it it'd make more creaking sounds than a bad horror movie

AD

dude772
09-12-2007, 02:41 AM
Those who can simply DO.
Those who ask how to do it probably would need to PAY someone else to do it and that goes from difficult to rediculously expensive in less time than it takes you to wolf down a BigMac.

AD

Hey I can do it, but I asked first. I cant tell that the crossmembers are different if i've only got the 1 truck. So even the people who can do it might need to ask to find out all the parts that need to be swapped over.

85_Ranger4x4
09-12-2007, 12:17 PM
Hey I can do it, but I asked first. I cant tell that the crossmembers are different if i've only got the 1 truck. So even the people who can do it might need to ask to find out all the parts that need to be swapped over.

Asking questions is what keeps this site going, nothing wrong with that. You have to start somewhere, nobody was born with the knowlage to do this kind of thing.