• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

leaking piston


Dangeranger3

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
620
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Peoria, IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
420
Transmission
Manual
brake problems

89 ranger 2wd
After doing some work and taking off the brake caliper I'm having problems getting it back on. The caliper was hung by some wire off the frame to keep it out of the way. Now while trying to pound it bacl on (wasn't going on smoothly) a decent amount of what I assume is brake fluid began leaking out of the piston. Any ideas on this as to why its leaking and how to get it back on?
 
Last edited:


krugford

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
733
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
41
Location
Iowa
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Automatic
When the caliper is hanging free, the piston is bound to move out a little due to the pressure in the brake lines. What you need to do is gently push the piston back into its bore to get it back on the rotor.

It sounds like you might have damaged the piston (are those steel or plastic pistons?) while you were pounding on it. Probably time for a new caliper.
 

MAKG

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
4,634
Reaction score
19
Points
0
Location
California central coast
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
Yeah, pounding on it was not good and might have broken a seal or distorted the housing.

You can push the piston in with your fingers if the cap is off the fluid reservoir, and then SLIDE it onto the rotor. Then TAP the slide pins in.
 

Dangeranger3

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
620
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Peoria, IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
420
Transmission
Manual
Yes, I did mess up the piston seals. It was slowly leaking fluid. The piston is metal for the record. I just replaced the entire caliper the other day. While bleed the brakes I couldn't ever get pressure.....thats when I see the large puddle by the left rear tire. Brake fluid is spraying from where the hard line meets the rubber hose for the rear brakes. Its rusted up pretty bad back there so I want to replace both the hard line and rubber hose. Does anyone know where I can get the hard line or do I have to bend it up myself?
 

MAKG

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
4,634
Reaction score
19
Points
0
Location
California central coast
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
OK, I'm scratching my head. 'Cause your rear rubber line should be VERY far from the rear brakes -- right above the differential. If it's leaking at the brake, find the leak PRECISELY and fix it. The most likely place is the wheel cylinder. The thing that might look like a rubber brake line is the parking brake cable. If it appears to be leaking, it's coming from inside the drum (and just about HAS to be a blown wheel cylinder).

If your hard line really is f***ed, your best bet is to bend it yourself. Buy a decent double flaring tool and bending tool and go to town. Or else have a brake shop do it for you (shouldn't be too expensive).
 

Dangeranger3

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
620
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Peoria, IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
420
Transmission
Manual
No no no, wrong end of the rubber hose. Where the metal line from the master cylinder meets the rubberline is where the leak is. The fluid ended up by the tire (but under the vehicle, inboard side of the tire if you will) because the fluid landed inside the frame rail and ran along inside it until it had a spot to flow over the edge to fall to the ground. Does anyone have tips on what tools and or techniques to use. I know this will be a real pain, but one more experience under my belt the way I figure it.
 
Last edited:

metalmacguyver

Yeah, I built that.
OTOTM Winner
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
3,814
Reaction score
11
Points
38
Age
36
Location
Plymouth MA home, Buzzards Bay MA
Vehicle Year
1997, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0, 7.3
Transmission
Manual
best thing to do is replace the soft line. and because the fittings and hard lines are probably rusted solid, you will also end up replacing the hard line to the rear as well as the lines to each wheel cylinder. FYI, the fittings on each end of each hard line will be different sizes.
 

Dangeranger3

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
620
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Peoria, IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
420
Transmission
Manual
So I took off the hard line today. It was rusted to shit. Does anyone have advice or opinions of brake line bending tools or flaring tools?
 

Sasquatch_Ryda

Well-Known Member
Ford Technician
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
Forum Staff - Retired
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
7,916
Reaction score
108
Points
63
Age
36
Location
Terrace, BC, Canada
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Tire Size
40s
Bend it by hand, dont waste your money on a bending tool
 

Sprag-O

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
238
Reaction score
3
Points
18
Age
37
Location
Canton, NY
Vehicle Year
1996
Make / Model
Mazda
Engine Size
2.3L
Transmission
Manual
i picked up the $3 tool just to make the bends right, and not crimp the line.

But it's just as easy to bend by hand, as per Sasquatch_Ryda
 

Dangeranger3

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
620
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Peoria, IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
420
Transmission
Manual
I ended up getting lines that already had fittings on them :biggthump: It is really easy to bend by hand. Thanks for the advice guys.
 

Evan

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
1,373
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
Stevens Point, WI
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 OHV
Transmission
Manual
You don't need a flaring tool or a bender. Bend the line carefully by hand, and buy some lenghts of line with the fittings and flares already on them. Connect line lengths with a junction if need be.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top