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the_lone_ranger
11-12-2007, 04:27 PM
I have a '94 Ranger XL, I recently put a skyjacker 6in. lift in and a set of 33's and now i have a vibration when taking off, i know it has the 2 peice rear driveshaft and just wanted to know everything i could find out to do the one peice shaft swap before i dish out $150.00 + for one, i read somewheres that the aluminum ones have a diff. bolt pattern is this right? also i was wondering if the u-joints for a 94 fit the newer driveshaft. Thanks

AllanD
11-12-2007, 04:54 PM
If you DO NOT have a supercab you already have a "one piece driveshaft"
(the slip joint is ignored, you onlky count the lengths of tubing)

Most of the aluminum one-piece supercab driveshafts have the larger bolt pattern at the front.

ALL of the one-piece shafts aluminum or steel use larger U-joints than
your current two-piece shaft. (presuming you have a supercab)

Do you have a supercab?

AD

the_lone_ranger
11-12-2007, 06:01 PM
yes i have a super cab, is the proper measurement for the one peice shaft 47"??

4x4junkie
11-12-2007, 08:43 PM
I seem to remember it was closer to 59", although I would have to check to be sure what the exact measurement was.

The flange-flange distance is no different on the later-model truck that the shaft comes from than on your '94 truck however.

Ranger2
07-05-2010, 10:18 PM
I am wondering the same I have a 1994 ranger XLT and wanna convert to the single shaft but need to know what all is entailed with that. I need to know which vehicles have the same driveshaft length and if i need to change anything else...i have heard possibly different flange ends. Any info would help.

Sasquatch_Ryda
07-06-2010, 01:19 AM
Look for a 98+ steel shaft from an ext cab 4x4 truck, or you can get one from an 01-05 sport trac 4x4.

Its pretty simple. Remove old drive shaft, remove steady bearing support cross member from frame, install new 1 piece drive shaft and go.

Mac
07-06-2010, 08:17 AM
More good reading if you haven't already.
Dave
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

legoms013
07-06-2010, 09:32 AM
And trim away on the gas tank skid plate....I've trimmed mine 3 times now and its still not enough. I need to just zip off another 1"x10" strip and then it might be ok. And with your amount of lift you may end up needing to address the carrier bearing cross member, as after ~4-5" of lift that driveline will start to rub there.

Here is what I did (I condone copying ideas but do not blame me for anything that goes wrong if you do :icon_twisted:)

Notice where the paint is peeled off at where it was contacting the 'member:
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq62/BlackMazda_96/Build%20Thread/0613001252c.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq62/BlackMazda_96/Build%20Thread/0613001252b.jpg

Sasquatch_Ryda
07-06-2010, 10:40 AM
As I said...just remove and discard the crossmember. It is not needed.

-Nathan-
07-06-2010, 10:54 AM
As I said...just remove and discard the crossmember. It is not needed.

X2 I removed mine long ago when I did my 1 piece swap. Be done with it.

Nater
07-06-2010, 12:13 PM
I thought I saw in the Tech section something about lowering the carrier bearing back down to remove the vibrations...

Sasquatch_Ryda
07-06-2010, 01:00 PM
You can try it...I did it for a bit. It was never perfect.

Guilius
07-06-2010, 01:07 PM
that's only if you want to stick with the two piece garbage. a one piece is much better.

i got a steel one piece from a junkyard and had NO problem getting it in, only to bend it 2 weeks later (gotta love rocks!)

the next one i got, i needed to replace the output yoke on the transfer case. the bolt pattern was bigger...again no biggie swapping this out. it's one big bolt holding the yoke on.

the gastank skidplate however, is another story. you either dont mind it sounding worse than 100 angry babboons scraping their nails on a chalkboard, or you trim it.
it's not suggested to let it rub due to the sparks etc......

legoms013
07-08-2010, 11:23 AM
I second the gas tank skid plate trimming...it seems like you can't trim enough off from that sucker.

huvik
08-30-2010, 12:28 AM
I thought the tech section said that the cross member was a structural support and shouldn't be removed?

4x4junkie
08-30-2010, 06:20 PM
The structural support it adds is rather minimal. Removing it shouldn't cause any issues under normal circumstances.

huvik
08-30-2010, 07:20 PM
What exactly is "normal" lol

Sasquatch_Ryda
08-30-2010, 08:13 PM
Mine's been gone for over 5 years with zero problems. And my truck gets wheeled. Remove it and don't be worried.

4x4junkie
08-30-2010, 08:17 PM
What exactly is "normal" lol

Not getting T-boned.

boles gsi
08-03-2011, 03:24 PM
I wanna do it on a 94 3.0 auto,ext cab ,2wd.
Do you know the weld to weld distance for that truck?
I dont know what size i need.Ore how to measure it right.

The auto and the manual are the same lenght right?

Is that just bold on?
I think the steel ones are and the alu s are not.
Is it on the right angle right away?

Anybody knows? ,,Thanks