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anyone know go kart motors??


funkingonutz

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alright i just got a FREE old school go kart from a friend and its not running right. When he gave it to me he said he did "everything" he could to make it run and failed. (all i saw that he could of done was change the spark plug:annoyed:)

its a Manco.....something...its one of those old street ones that are like 2inches off the ground.
its got a Tecumseh 4 stroke motor...not sure of the cc's or the hp. but from i saw on google its a 6horse motor. So...i went to turn it over....noticed the pull start rip-cord was GONE!! Fixed that, then went to see if it had spark....OUCH!!! Yup its got spark, checked the compression, GREAT...pulled of the carb took that apart and cleaned the jet,bowl,inlet. and the exterior with carb cleaner. Then i went and got a fuel filter and new fuel hose. Then i filled the crankcase wit oil...Went to turn her over and she fired right up first pull:headbang:
BUT.....the rpm's got real high and then it cut out:annoyed: pulled it over again and the same thing happened.
It seems to run LONGER when the choke is ON and as soon as i take the choke off it dies instantly. Now i used to own an old school honda moped and i knew that carb inside and out but im not used to this one yet...there are two adjustment screws that i dont know does what. Theres one at the bottom of the bowl sticking directly down and one on the side of the carb body...wich one does what???
O and what is causing it not to run?? i forget but i used to know what it ment when it only ran in choke:dunno:
 


Bubba Bob

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Usually means the jets are clogged... but you cleaned the carb out. So the A/F is probably off and leans out when the choke is opened up. Gotta be one of those adjusting screws :icon_confused:
 

willied

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If it only runs in choke then it's probably running lean normally. I don't know which does what, but just try adjusting those screws that you found.
 

jaymegriffiths

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alright i just got a FREE old school go kart from a friend and its not running right. When he gave it to me he said he did "everything" he could to make it run and failed. (all i saw that he could of done was change the spark plug:annoyed:)

its a Manco.....something...its one of those old street ones that are like 2inches off the ground.
its got a Tecumseh 4 stroke motor...not sure of the cc's or the hp. but from i saw on google its a 6horse motor. So...i went to turn it over....noticed the pull start rip-cord was GONE!! Fixed that, then went to see if it had spark....OUCH!!! Yup its got spark, checked the compression, GREAT...pulled of the carb took that apart and cleaned the jet,bowl,inlet. and the exterior with carb cleaner. Then i went and got a fuel filter and new fuel hose. Then i filled the crankcase wit oil...Went to turn her over and she fired right up first pull:headbang:
BUT.....the rpm's got real high and then it cut out:annoyed: pulled it over again and the same thing happened.
It seems to run LONGER when the choke is ON and as soon as i take the choke off it dies instantly. Now i used to own an old school honda moped and i knew that carb inside and out but im not used to this one yet...there are two adjustment screws that i dont know does what. Theres one at the bottom of the bowl sticking directly down and one on the side of the carb body...wich one does what???
O and what is causing it not to run?? i forget but i used to know what it ment when it only ran in choke:dunno:
it sounds like your jet is gummed up pretty bad, try spraying the carb with automotive carb cleaner, see if you can keep it running long enough to spray some in. if not, take the carb in and have a carb job done. they should replace the jet as part of the service. unless you run it often, keep a can of carb cleaner on hand. while tryin to get my go cart running (powered by a yamaha rt 100 2 stroke) we found bouncing the engine around forced gas into the bowl and kept it running. oh and the screw on the bowl will be an air idle control, and the other one will be a fuel screw. Don't adjust the fuel screw but you may have to adjust the air idle screw to get it to run properly.dont do this until you have the engine running. (to stay running after the choke is off) from what you've said it sounds like just a gummed jet.
 

KELLY88

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Ya definitely lean when the choke is off. Do you try giving it gas to keep it running when you turn the choke off? If that keeps it running then the idler screw just needs an adjustment. Back it out 1/4 turn at a time until it runs correctly.
 

funkingonutz

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yeah i tryed giving it gas and it reved nice and ran for a bit but then it died:annoyed:

okay well im gonna rip it apart again and try to clean it better....maybe the jet ports are clogged...going to have to get a piece of brass wire to clean those holes out:dunno:
ill post pics of it when i can borrow the girlfriends camera:yahoo:

first ill try with adjusting that air fuel idle vavle.....anyone know wich way to go with it??? LOOSEN it or TIGHTEN it.........sorry i used to know this stuff back when i had my moped but ive since forgot:sad:
 

KELLY88

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Loosen it. It's running lean so you need to let a little more fuel in.
 

Psychopete

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I love minibikes and gocarts, they are awesome.

Also keep in mind that the gasket between the carb and engine can leak if you reuse them. That will affect the engine's ability to get fuel. But definitely make sure the jet is clean, and that passage that fuel gets into the bowl is clear. Can you easily remove the yet? You might have to make your own tool out of an old screw driver. I usually shoot compressed air through the all of the passages. I am not real fimilar with that carb and the adjustments that are available. The PO may have tweaked something out of adjustment.

I wonder about those newer techs, a friend of mine had a flat head 5hp years ago, and I would walk him with a B&S 3.5hp on take off and top speed. Now mine has a Intek OHV B&S 190cc stoked to 206cc with a mild steel cam and a carb off a OHC (over head cam :)) Honda GC160. Governer is also completely gone.

FWIW, the honda carb I had was from an engine I blew up back in 2000. It had been setting full of varnish and rust since, but I cleaned it as best as I could, modified it to fit the briggs, and it ran like a raped ape.

Pete
 
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Potatoflinger

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The screw sticking in the side should be the idle screw. Try tightening the screw all the way in, then back it out 2 turns and then a quarter turn to fine tune it.

I recently had the same trouble with a 10hp tecumseh for a racing lawn mower, and that did the trick.
 

rusty ol ranger

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My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Why is this in entertainment?

later,
Dustin
 

jaymegriffiths

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Why is this in entertainment?

later,
Dustin
cause its entertaining,duh! haha
oh ya. DONT adjust the fuel-air idle screw until the jet has been PROPERLY cleaned or replaced! is there a motorcycle repair shop near? typically if you take them the old jet they should sell you a new one for relatively cheap, and that should help narrow down the problem. from what you know the engine ran before. this means if you change the settings you dont know if they are correct or not. if you mess with it before you know what each adjustment does, and whats necessary to correct the problem youll have noone to blame when it doesn't work. you cant have more than one variable and expect an accurate response. also, i believe the carb should have a little rubber "thing"(not sure the name) with a spring inside. it fluctuates to suck gas into the carb. this may have a leak, they cost about 3 bucks. (our snowblower had this problem last winter)
 

funkingonutz

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yeah....i know i posted in the wrong section....for some reason could'nt find the general discussion one...
Yeah i didnt get to work on it today maybe 2morrow though...and thanks
 

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