I read in the tech library that we can use roller rockers from a 302. The only change necessary is the use of m8x1.25 bolts instead of 5/16" bolts. Is this true? Has anyone done this with good results?
5.0 roller rockers
- Thread starter RangerRocker
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broken link????
If you do this mod you need to closely look at the contact patch from the roller tip to the valve, I used a well advertised kit for the 3.0's (stud mount type) and it wasted the valve tips in just over 20k miles. The stud mount 302 are too long and it really moves the contact patch out on the tip, rather than the middle of the stem.
JP02XLT
JP02XLT
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5.0 Roller Rockers
Hi,
I have the 5.0 Proform 1.7 Roller Rockers on my 99 3.0 Ranger. I am using stock length stainless steal SI valves and small block Chevy valve springs. Only problem was the stock push rods were too short. I had longer custom push rods made by Manton Push Rods. Works great! I also ported my heads, intake, throttle body and MAF sensor. I finished with headers and exhaust system. Runs strong and sounds great.
I can give you the specs on the custom pushrods if you have the same problem.
Hi,
I have the 5.0 Proform 1.7 Roller Rockers on my 99 3.0 Ranger. I am using stock length stainless steal SI valves and small block Chevy valve springs. Only problem was the stock push rods were too short. I had longer custom push rods made by Manton Push Rods. Works great! I also ported my heads, intake, throttle body and MAF sensor. I finished with headers and exhaust system. Runs strong and sounds great.
I can give you the specs on the custom pushrods if you have the same problem.
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I would think using the 1.7 rockers would cause excessive wear on the valve train. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Why do they say to use the Pro Form ones? Are these the only ones that work, what about the Ford Racing ones?
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Not necessarily. The increased ratio would seem to multiply the load that the cam, lifters, pushrods, etc. see, BUT at the same time you are moving from a non-roller to a full-roller rocker. The reduction in friction at the fulcrum and tip of each rocker actually compensates for the increased rocker ratio. Overall load on the valvetrain is reduced while valve opening is increased. It's a win-win... the only drawback being that the full roller rockers are a lot more expensive than stamped steel "sled" type rockers that FoMoCo used.
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The functional geometry should be nearly identical. The only issues you run into in some cases are clearance between the rockers and the valve covers with certain brands/designs. AFAIK, this is not an issue on our 3.0Ls, but it's something to think about.
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I used the roller rocker conversion from rougueperformance.com. I don't know if he still has any left because he used Crane rockers and they are now out of business. He provided the studs and was no problem on the install. I did have to replace the lifters because they weren't up to the job (I installed the roller rockers at 115K miles). Otherwise it went all right. You will notice of a faster rev and no noise under the hood. Good luck.
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